got a question about washing/ waxing, just ask, ill try to help you out =)

 

I have a question *raises hand*

I've been reading up on the site about removing scratches but there are so many answers that I've read, here's my situation.....

I bought my car used, and the owner took great car of it, but not as **** as you or me when it comes to washing. It looks like he used a regular rag or maybe even a brush on the car and there are light scratches over the entire car in the clear coat. I just claybarred and NXT waxed the car and the difference is night and day...looking at it from most angles the finish is mirrorlike. However, when you get that right angle at night with light you can see the swirls. Now they arent the light swirl marks that would come from a buffer...they are swirls like a dirty washmit or a brush would leave. I want a GLASS finish on my car and have thought about taking it to a professional...but if I can do it myself I'd be a lot happier. I'm aware of the different compounds, but what would work best, and what are the steps for polishes and sealants. I usually jsut wash and wax. What do you recommend?

 

I guess DevilZero didn't have the answer to that one

First, the easy answer on polishes and sealants. The order of operations is polish first, wax second. Polishing preps the paint for the wax and enhances the shine from underneat the wax. Here is a great article on polishing.

Second, on to your particular issue... It sounds like the scratches on your car are pretty profound, so it will likely take more effort to fix it than a manually-applied waxing. NXT supposedly doesn't have any abrasives or cleaning agents, so it won't diminish those scratches significantly. The night/day results you are seeing are probably because a) the claybar really smoothed out your paint surface, removing any contaminants, and b) the glossiness from the NXT may detract somewhat from the scratches by making the entire paint surface relfect light as well as the scratches themselves. The NXT doesn't buff away the scratches, though, so, as you mentioned, you will still be able to see them from different angles.

That being the case, you will need to look into rubbing compounds and other swirl-mark removers (SMR) to do the job, and even then, in order to allow the abrasives to work aggressively enough and buff out the sharp edges of the scratches, you'll need an orbital buffer to work the compound into the paint. I'd be careful, though, because you can create more scratches doing that. Best to go to a professional, if you ask me.

 

BTW, a brush is not necessarily a bad thing to use for washing. There are hogshair-bristle brushes especially made for car washing. They lift dirt/grit away from the surface which is supposed to minimize scratches and swirls.

 

www.autopia.org

First off, buy yourself a Porter Cable 7336 from Lowes ($99). Then buy a velcro backing plate and a pad set (see autopia ). Then you will probably need something stronger than a swirl remover as it is not very abrasive and probably won't remove the scratches completely. I would recommend something in the 5's on this abrasive list: http://autopia.org/forums/showthread...threadid=36208

Now you will want to use a polishing pad with that #5 abrasive polish on a 2x2 section of the car with the porter cable (it is virtually impossible to damage your paint with this tool unless you drop it on the paint). Apply a small amount of polish in a circle about 2 inches from the edge of the pad. Rub the polish onto the paint and then turn on the PC and up the speed to 5. Now start at the top left and work left to right, right to left until you reach the bottom right corner of your 2x2 area. Now work it up and down all the way back to your starting point. You should apply enough pressure to make the PC bog down a bit, then ease up just a hair. If the polish begins to produce dust (drying up), then you should add a little more. Now you will probably need to follow this up with a #3 on the abrasive list with a polishing pad. Work the same routine on the 2x2 section and check your results. If its what you are looking for, then apply your NXT and your all set. If you still have visable scratches, use a cutting pad with the abrasive polish and work to more abrasive polishes until you get the results you are looking for.

Autopia is a great site for detailing and maintaining a mirror like finish. I'm **** about my car and I've spent hours reading up all I could. I figured maybe I can help someone else with what I've learned.

Good luck!

 

Wanna come wax my car for me?

 

porter cable can be purchased at lowes? i didnt know that! =) does it really do a better job compared to manual waxing?

 

oops, i didnt know ppl still replied to this post =) sorry guys, MarkD and i pretty much have the same ideas on car care =)

 

The Porter Cable can be bought at lowes yes. It makes a HUGE difference. Basically it does what your hands would do but at 50 times the speed.

 

BTW, thanks, DevilZero, for turning me on to Meg's #16 (I think that's what we talked about a while back)! I can't remember if you said yours came as a liquid wax; mine came as a paste wax (and they didn't sell it at the Pep Boys here). Great durability and awesome shine. I love that stuff!

 

QUESTION! there are those ANNOYING cracks in the 8 (like the side view mirror dripping, the rear window cracks, the passenger window, and when u open the door and close it, water just keeps coming on to the 8 after the wash) that keeps leaking after a wash. any way to avoid drying it for hours!?

 

Simple--After you've washed your car, towel/chamois it down as best you can. Then take it for a ten-minute drive going at least a moderate speed (I drive on the interstate and then turn around a few exits down). The wind will blow the excess water out of those crevices. Just do your best to stay away from exhaust-billowing cars and road debris so no dirt or contaminants stick to your paint, as you will have to do a quick towel down before you walk back into the house

Some people also use leaf blowers to dry their cars. That would be something else to consider. I've never done that, though, so I can't tell you what to look for. Maybe someone else can chime in...

 

http://www.detailplus.com/air_wand.htm

 

I've heard great things about Zaino, but I read their website and I don't have the time that the product requires "for maximum benefit." Is there anything out there that can be used in about one hour, start to finish? And is it best to wax in the shade?

 

Best to wax in the shade or on a overcast day yes. Meguiar's NXT TECH Generation is the best I have used.

 

i'll second that...and the price isn't bad either..

 

Third that. use the liquid NXT. Its about 14 bucks at your local walmart. Goes on easy and comes off easy. 1 hour no prob.

 

Fourth that... although I'm thinking about experimenting with the EO Nano Wax with my next bottle to see how it looks and holds. I'll keep you guys posted, though I haven't so far heard of it being as good as NXT.

 

for the black trim on the car, use STONER Trim Shine, it is a spray on product, it works like magic!! you can get them at Pep Boys

 

polish b4 NXT is the BEST!

 

You can wax the RX-8 with Zymol in an hour. The real carnauba wax, not the liquid stuff. Leaves a great deep finish and no problem with residue.

 

What is your preffered wax?

 

Please recommend a good vaccum cleaner for cars. Floor mats, seats. etc.

 

Dude go to Home Depot/Lowes and get one of those mini shop vacs, like 1/2 gallon size, they are awesome.

 

Pinnacle Souveran hands down for a finishing wax that is unbeatable for dark cars in shine, depth, and durability. It also runs about 75 bones for a can...