3m Clear Paint Protection Film...
11-29-2004, 03:44 PM
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D.I.Y. 3M Clear Paint Protection Film... (Installed)
I have a friend who works at an auto shop in Athens, and he was able to get me a great deal on this complete front film kit. On NoChip.com they sell it for well over 700$, if anyone is interested I may be able to get a group buy discount going for about 450$ ( I have to clear it with the moderators of course ). Don't ask me where he works, b/c he could get busted if people start calling the store for this deal. 
It is truly sweet, I applied it to an Audi S4, and it is amazing how much it protects the front paint. I will try an get some pics of what it does exactly. The Audi had one small strip of the front bumper exposed and it is completely sandblasted from highway driving after only 55k miles. This will be especially important for darker color cars, b/c you can see the knicks a bit more.
It does take a bit of patience to do, but it is totally doable for someone with little time and patience. :D
I will post pictures of the finished product on my Silver 8, once I have applied it (should be this friday).
PM me with questions!
It is truly sweet, I applied it to an Audi S4, and it is amazing how much it protects the front paint. I will try an get some pics of what it does exactly. The Audi had one small strip of the front bumper exposed and it is completely sandblasted from highway driving after only 55k miles. This will be especially important for darker color cars, b/c you can see the knicks a bit more.
It does take a bit of patience to do, but it is totally doable for someone with little time and patience. :D
I will post pictures of the finished product on my Silver 8, once I have applied it (should be this friday).
PM me with questions!
Last edited by Squirrel56; 12-04-2004 at 02:03 PM.
12-04-2004, 02:16 PM
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Step 1....
Preparation...
Do in a well lit, ventelated, and non windy place. Make sure that you wash your hands with dishwashing soap (Dawn) really well.
You will need a spray bottle, with a 25% alchohol, 75% water mixture, a needle, a soft sqeege, soft shop towels ( non - paper ).
Wash the section of the car off with warm water and dishwashing soap (Dawn), making sure that all bugs, tar, and dirt are completely remove.
Follow up by wiping down the surface with Alchohol soaked SOFT shop towels (won't sratch paint) .... Do not use Kitchen Towels....
Do in a well lit, ventelated, and non windy place. Make sure that you wash your hands with dishwashing soap (Dawn) really well.
You will need a spray bottle, with a 25% alchohol, 75% water mixture, a needle, a soft sqeege, soft shop towels ( non - paper ).
Wash the section of the car off with warm water and dishwashing soap (Dawn), making sure that all bugs, tar, and dirt are completely remove.
Follow up by wiping down the surface with Alchohol soaked SOFT shop towels (won't sratch paint) .... Do not use Kitchen Towels....
12-04-2004, 02:21 PM
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Step 2...
Spray your hands really well with the Alchohol + Water Mixture. (This will be key, so that you don't leave fingerprints on the film (cannot be removed).
Spray the location (Use Lots!).
Spray the location (Use Lots!).
12-04-2004, 02:25 PM
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Step 3...
Spray the back of the film (white part first ), then peel off the shipping clear film.
Next, (make sure your hands are wet, peel off the white protection film, constantly wetting the film as you peel it back.
Next, (make sure your hands are wet, peel off the white protection film, constantly wetting the film as you peel it back.
12-04-2004, 02:34 PM
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Step 4...
This is the tough part...
Use my guide (below) to know which end to start from. (trust me, it sucks when you have to consistently re-apply).
Start from the corner, spraying addidtional soluction as needed to manuever. Use your rubber squeegy to flatten out as you slowly put down the other side of the film.
Once aligned, dry to see bubbles. Squeegie out large bubbles to the side, and/or use pin to get out additional (small) bubbles. If you are patient, and do a good job squeegying, you should not have many bubbles. (much like window tinting)
THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING!!!, make sure that there are no AIR bubbles in the film, minute water bubbles will dry, but not air!
Pull back film, re-wet and re-apply!
Use my guide (below) to know which end to start from. (trust me, it sucks when you have to consistently re-apply).
Start from the corner, spraying addidtional soluction as needed to manuever. Use your rubber squeegy to flatten out as you slowly put down the other side of the film.
Once aligned, dry to see bubbles. Squeegie out large bubbles to the side, and/or use pin to get out additional (small) bubbles. If you are patient, and do a good job squeegying, you should not have many bubbles. (much like window tinting)
THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING!!!, make sure that there are no AIR bubbles in the film, minute water bubbles will dry, but not air!
Pull back film, re-wet and re-apply!
12-04-2004, 02:58 PM
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Application Guide...
Check it out guys (and gals of course)...
This is a guide of the difficulty level, and tecniques that need to be used when applying different parts... (easiest to hardest) ......
1.) Fender Guard (above headlights)... Start with the sharp point between the hood and the headlight, align the flat side (facing hood) with the line of the fender. Squeegy the film backwards from that ONLY stretching the part around the curve of the light. Work Backwards from the hood to the Corner lights, and make sure that all of the ends are down nice and tight!
2.) Hood... Although huge, this is NOT that hard! Make sure that you have a buddy help you by continuously spraying the solution on the film, and your hands. Start out by centering/aligning the film with the bottom of the hood. Gently fold the film backwards towards the windshield while squeegying the solution and bubbles out. (make sure that the film goes all the way to the tip of the hood to prevent wind from catching the film). Everything else pretty much aligns itself! :D
3.) Front Spoiler (lip only)... This is pretty easy, just make sure that it is extra clean! There are a ton of bugs and tar that can get stuck on this piece especially. Start from the CENTER, and work outwards to the side. ( you need to stretch it just a bit to reach the end. :D
4.) Side Mirrors... I know what your thinking, easy right??? Wrong! These were the 2nd most challenging piece to put on! Because of the curve on the mirrors, the film must be stretched to its limits! Start with the bottom corner closest to the car. Stretch the film across the bottom (lining up with paint) and then pull the top corner closest to the car to the top. (try to follow the faint line left by mazda when they painted) Once these three corners are in place, sqeegy out the rest! you may need to press down a wrinkle or two with your fingers toward the end. Just hold your finger on top of the crease for a minute or two, and it will tighten up like dry leather.
5.) Font end (with Mazda Emblem)... Take a break before you do this baby, and avoid the Brew for at least an hour! Start by lining up the mazda emblem with the center of the film, and then work your way out paying EXTRA attention to the edge of the film lining up with the bottom paint (by the radiator). Slowly and patiently work outward from the center evening out, and stretching around the corners for full protection. Once again, and I cannot stress this enough! Have someone help you with this, if the film touches the ground, It's pretty much ruined! Use tons of solution, and be patient!
6.) Have a beer! Your done!
This is a guide of the difficulty level, and tecniques that need to be used when applying different parts... (easiest to hardest)
...... 1.) Fender Guard (above headlights)... Start with the sharp point between the hood and the headlight, align the flat side (facing hood) with the line of the fender. Squeegy the film backwards from that ONLY stretching the part around the curve of the light. Work Backwards from the hood to the Corner lights, and make sure that all of the ends are down nice and tight!
2.) Hood... Although huge, this is NOT that hard! Make sure that you have a buddy help you by continuously spraying the solution on the film, and your hands. Start out by centering/aligning the film with the bottom of the hood. Gently fold the film backwards towards the windshield while squeegying the solution and bubbles out. (make sure that the film goes all the way to the tip of the hood to prevent wind from catching the film). Everything else pretty much aligns itself! :D
3.) Front Spoiler (lip only)... This is pretty easy, just make sure that it is extra clean! There are a ton of bugs and tar that can get stuck on this piece especially. Start from the CENTER, and work outwards to the side. ( you need to stretch it just a bit to reach the end. :D
4.) Side Mirrors... I know what your thinking, easy right??? Wrong! These were the 2nd most challenging piece to put on! Because of the curve on the mirrors, the film must be stretched to its limits! Start with the bottom corner closest to the car. Stretch the film across the bottom (lining up with paint) and then pull the top corner closest to the car to the top. (try to follow the faint line left by mazda when they painted) Once these three corners are in place, sqeegy out the rest! you may need to press down a wrinkle or two with your fingers toward the end. Just hold your finger on top of the crease for a minute or two, and it will tighten up like dry leather.
5.) Font end (with Mazda Emblem)... Take a break before you do this baby, and avoid the Brew for at least an hour! Start by lining up the mazda emblem with the center of the film, and then work your way out paying EXTRA attention to the edge of the film lining up with the bottom paint (by the radiator). Slowly and patiently work outward from the center evening out, and stretching around the corners for full protection. Once again, and I cannot stress this enough! Have someone help you with this, if the film touches the ground, It's pretty much ruined! Use tons of solution, and be patient!
6.) Have a beer! Your done!
12-04-2004, 03:07 PM
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Phew! that was a long one, If anyone wants a set, let me know. I cannot officially start a group buy without permission and at least 10 people. PM me if you are interested, the price would be 425$ shipped, plus whatever charges (spread out) That I would have to pay to do a group buy. I am not making .01$ on any of this, I am just trying to help everyone out. :D
SUBDUERACER, I know that 400$ is pricy, but this is the real 3M Scotchguard stuff that costs (retail) around 720$ in stores. I called a few shops to get some estimates, and they had several grades of film (this being the best).
I am sure that with some research you could find it on the net relatively cheap, but make sure it is 3M.
Anyways, getting that price is totally in the air (depending on 10+ interested). Good luck with any other mods!
Have a great day guys/gals!
SUBDUERACER, I know that 400$ is pricy, but this is the real 3M Scotchguard stuff that costs (retail) around 720$ in stores. I called a few shops to get some estimates, and they had several grades of film (this being the best).
I am sure that with some research you could find it on the net relatively cheap, but make sure it is 3M.
Anyways, getting that price is totally in the air (depending on 10+ interested). Good luck with any other mods!
Have a great day guys/gals!
12-04-2004, 03:10 PM
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Whoa! I didn't really read that last part. You should order some of that!
150$ is a GREAT price! Wish I met you earlier!
:p
Get it, it is a lifesaver (paintsaver for that matter)!
150$ is a GREAT price! Wish I met you earlier!
:p
Get it, it is a lifesaver (paintsaver for that matter)!
12-04-2004, 03:11 PM
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Excellent post!
I would love to try this on my hood.
I'm in a quandry as to what to do about my MS nose. It is getting obliterated by rock chips, but I know of no vendor that makes the film that will fit the nose....
I'm getting of my MS nose re-sprayed and hood blended (color match was not absolutely perfect (I really couldn't tell the difference) and the body shop insisted (how do you like that) that they re-do it because when people ask about the car, they want to make sure that if I mention who painted it, their reputation stayed in tact :D
Anyway, the front will inevitably get killed again....is it possible to put this on without the pattern being pre-cut?
I would love to try this on my hood.
I'm in a quandry as to what to do about my MS nose. It is getting obliterated by rock chips, but I know of no vendor that makes the film that will fit the nose....
I'm getting of my MS nose re-sprayed and hood blended (color match was not absolutely perfect (I really couldn't tell the difference) and the body shop insisted (how do you like that) that they re-do it because when people ask about the car, they want to make sure that if I mention who painted it, their reputation stayed in tact :D
Anyway, the front will inevitably get killed again....is it possible to put this on without the pattern being pre-cut?
12-04-2004, 03:18 PM
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Totally, although it is a Bi**.
First get some masking tape and go to SamFlax (or equivalent) and get some large trace paper. (comes in large rolls) My fiance is an architect student, so...
use the masking tape to tie down the corners and then use a (non permanent) black marker to carefully trace an outlin of the bumper. Add 1-2 inches around the trace for error allowance, and then cut out your stencil. Then order a roll of the 3M film (get the best grade) and lay it out on your kitchen table to flatten it out.
Once it is flat, carefully use your stencil on the white security film.... Trace.... Cut w/exacto! Works Great!
Once you have the film applied, use a combination of a rubber sqeegie and an exacto knife to trim around the edges. (be careful not to scratch the new paint!)
Cheers!
First get some masking tape and go to SamFlax (or equivalent) and get some large trace paper. (comes in large rolls) My fiance is an architect student, so...
use the masking tape to tie down the corners and then use a (non permanent) black marker to carefully trace an outlin of the bumper. Add 1-2 inches around the trace for error allowance, and then cut out your stencil. Then order a roll of the 3M film (get the best grade) and lay it out on your kitchen table to flatten it out.
Once it is flat, carefully use your stencil on the white security film.... Trace.... Cut w/exacto! Works Great!
Once you have the film applied, use a combination of a rubber sqeegie and an exacto knife to trim around the edges. (be careful not to scratch the new paint!)
Cheers!
12-04-2004, 03:26 PM
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Every place has their mark-up. The actual cost is something else. Good post. If it was worth 400 then you got a great deal. The vender I talked to does all our bumper work on used cars. I get bumpers painted for $150. They gave me some paperwork on the 3m kit. They charge normal customers $500. They pay 150 for the film. The rest is labor. Since they want my business on my used cars, they do my work at no labor cost. You would be amaized at what kind of mark-up you find in most stores and venders.
12-04-2004, 03:31 PM
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I'm painting my front fenders, hood, and bumper this spring. I will be getting the 3m film to protect it. I friend told me to get it when I bought it. I didn't listen because I was so sure that I would get so hammered by rocks. I was wrong! Every time I go onto 495 my cars hood gets its *** kicked.
12-04-2004, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Squirrel56
Totally, although it is a Bi**.
First get some masking tape and go to SamFlax (or equivalent) and get some large trace paper. (comes in large rolls) My fiance is an architect student, so...
use the masking tape to tie down the corners and then use a (non permanent) black marker to carefully trace an outlin of the bumper. Add 1-2 inches around the trace for error allowance, and then cut out your stencil. Then order a roll of the 3M film (get the best grade) and lay it out on your kitchen table to flatten it out.
Once it is flat, carefully use your stencil on the white security film.... Trace.... Cut w/exacto! Works Great!
Once you have the film applied, use a combination of a rubber sqeegie and an exacto knife to trim around the edges. (be careful not to scratch the new paint!)
Cheers!
First get some masking tape and go to SamFlax (or equivalent) and get some large trace paper. (comes in large rolls) My fiance is an architect student, so...
use the masking tape to tie down the corners and then use a (non permanent) black marker to carefully trace an outlin of the bumper. Add 1-2 inches around the trace for error allowance, and then cut out your stencil. Then order a roll of the 3M film (get the best grade) and lay it out on your kitchen table to flatten it out.
Once it is flat, carefully use your stencil on the white security film.... Trace.... Cut w/exacto! Works Great!
Once you have the film applied, use a combination of a rubber sqeegie and an exacto knife to trim around the edges. (be careful not to scratch the new paint!)
Cheers!
Like I wouldn't screw this up too badly
I wish you were in Jax, FL, I'd pay your fiance to do the tracing!
12-04-2004, 04:06 PM
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Mazda paint sucks. No doubt about it. After 2 winters the nose on my Miata had more chips than it had paint 
I wasted no time after buying my RX-8 and had the 3-M Film put on. If you are like me and not good with these types things (hell I can't fold a piece of paper straight, I don't recommend you do this yourself. I paid a shop to do mine. Material and labor was $500. I have to admit it would have been more. I called a few places in the Denver and Ft Collins area and it ranged from $400 (I got the feeling this guy was working out his garage) to $750. But I got a deal through my Mazda dealer. The film covers the entire front bumper and 18 inches up the front of the hood and tops of the fenders. They did an awesome job. You'd never know it was there, if you weren't looking for it. I am still waiting for my Mazda emblem to come in though ... 4 weeks later 
I wasted no time after buying my RX-8 and had the 3-M Film put on. If you are like me and not good with these types things (hell I can't fold a piece of paper straight, I don't recommend you do this yourself. I paid a shop to do mine. Material and labor was $500. I have to admit it would have been more. I called a few places in the Denver and Ft Collins area and it ranged from $400 (I got the feeling this guy was working out his garage) to $750. But I got a deal through my Mazda dealer. The film covers the entire front bumper and 18 inches up the front of the hood and tops of the fenders. They did an awesome job. You'd never know it was there, if you weren't looking for it. I am still waiting for my Mazda emblem to come in though ... 4 weeks later
12-04-2004, 04:07 PM
#18
Registered
For people considering this - the 3M Scotchcal clear paint protection film does an excellent job, but it's not new - we've had many threads about clear bras (go on, do the search! 
) going back over 1.5 years now. $400 NOT installed is not a great price, either - as mentioned, it is a difficult install, and I paid about that much installed in August 03. Mine was done by a www.xpel.com installer, there are other pattern vendors out there as well, like www.stoneguard.com .
Regards,
Gordon
) going back over 1.5 years now. $400 NOT installed is not a great price, either - as mentioned, it is a difficult install, and I paid about that much installed in August 03. Mine was done by a www.xpel.com installer, there are other pattern vendors out there as well, like www.stoneguard.com .Regards,
Gordon
12-04-2004, 04:11 PM
#19
Thews8
the kits are not really that good.. it is better to use a roll and do the whole front clip like i did.. the Kits dont cover all the edges and dont wrap the edges of the fenders..
and yes.. do a SEarch on Clear Bra you will find hours of reading.
and yes.. do a SEarch on Clear Bra you will find hours of reading.
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