RX8SpdDmn

What brake pads would you guys suggest for track days (only)? I'm doing my first driver's school with the RX-8 next month at Watkins Glen. I'll be using these pads only for the track. I used the Hawk HP+ pads on my 325is last year and they were fine. I'd go with them again, but they aren't carried for both the front and rear for our cars.

What are you using?

Thanks!

BlueRenesis82

Rears are stock, I have Hawk HP+ on the fronts, but a lot of people have stated that they think the stock pads are fine. I just like this setup better.

expo1

Been to the Glen on stock pads and they were fine. After a few track days you might feel more confident and go for the “track day only pads” or you might just do the swap to extend the life of the OEM’s but the 8 has very good brakes and they will not slow you down at the Glen. There are also many turns that need very little brakes do to elevation changes so I find the glen to not be too hard on the brakes. Also as a bit of advice the Glen is a big track get very familiar with the layout, go on rides with other drivers, my school in fact had a driver walk of the track that helped a lot.

RX8SpdDmn

I've been around the track a lot and did a DE at WGI last year. I think I'll go with the Hawk HP+ on just the front, I guess, unless you guys can recommend a pad upgrade that will replace front AND rear pads. Depending on how cheap I'm feeling next month, I might just keep my stock pads on and then have the dealer replace them under the "squealing" problem, which they've been having anyway. I just have to hope the squealing doesn't go away =P

Razz1

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

Great stopping power and good wear on your rotors.

Kicker774

This topic pops up very often on the Honda forum (OhioHondas.com) I'm on.

Two routes:
My route: Cobalt GT Brake pads. I love the difference in stopping power they've made on my Integra GS-R I rarely have to downshift and engine brake to slow down anywhere.
Plus the Cobalts are rotor friendly and won't wear down your rotors as much as other pads.

Option #2: If you plan on really abusing your brakes through HPDE and other frequent track events you may want to consider the more popular Hawk HP+ pads. But they are more abrasive to your rotors than the Cobalts.
If you already stock up on $20 AutoZone special rotors and replace them frequently then the Hawks may do better for you.

Having no garage and not doing alot of track events you can see how I'd be more biased torwards the first option.

GL!

former1.8t

I've had good luck so far with Carbotech XP-9 up front, with OEM rear pads. Excellent bite and no fade so far at Autobahn Country Club and Grattan Raceway.

mlx8

MazdaSpeed makes a higher temperature tollerant street/track pad for the Rx8. Pricy, but IME they worked very well. When the pads came out to do a big brake kit on the front of the car, they showed even wear between both front & rear pads. I was suprised by this. I assumed the fronts would have shown a lot more wear than the rear pads. Lapping was pretty evenly diviided between running with DSC both on, & off. My assumption is, that with the DSC on, the rear pads see a lot more action which might partly explain, along with how well balance the car is to begin with, the degree to which pad wear was so evenly distributed.

BlueRenesis82

Hey former1.8t you should come to Road America with me later this summer. I tried to get people to come, but no response from the first time around.

http://roadamerica.fbody.us/

Jay Goldfarb

If you are really pushing the car, than none of the pads suggested are right. You will need to go to a real race pad. I have tried Hawk Blues and they really aren't rotor friendly - expecially if you drive to track on them. Recently tried Hawk HS14's on front and 10's on back. Also now have stoptech 4 piston setup on front. Blues had much more bite. Going to try this weekend at Sebring Colbalt VR's on front. This is what they suggested for those who really push. They also suggested VX compound for rears, but do not have template ready yet. Will keep the Hawk 10's on.

Hope this helps.

Jay Goldfarb
Instructor with: NASA, BMW CCA & PBOC

BlueRenesis82

Let us know how the Sebring's work out for ya, I'm always looking for something to help improve my car and myself

Jay Goldfarb

Give me some idea of what you have done to the car already. Any handling changes will give greater speeds that will than need better brakes. Stock calipers work fine, but will give uneven wear inside and outside due to one piston. I went to 4 piston calipers. I also use slotted rotors front and back. I will keep you posted on how I feel about the Colbalt VR pads.

Jay

BlueRenesis82

I have RB front/rear sway bars, JIC front shock tower brace, SS clutch and brake lines, I'm running StopTech slotted rotors front and rear with stock calipers and Hawk HP+ pads on track days

RPIRX-8

I just did my first track day at New Hampshire International on the stock brakes and brake fluid. The stock pads are awesome. I would worry more about brake fluid. Change to DOT4 fluid and bleed your brakes before and after the event.

That all being said I just ordered a new set of rotors from www.adrenelineracing.com and RPS pads from Porterfield Brakes. I had Porterfields on my 2000 Celica GT-S and they are absolutely unbelievable. The brakes were $149 for the front.

BlueRenesis, how do you like the slotted rotors? I've heard bad things about those for track days. One person at the track said he got much increased brake fade because the slots were retaining pad material.

Razz1

No problem here with Rotara slots.

mike0615

sorry, don't mean to hijack thread, but i have a simular question i guess. i just bought some EBC Red Stuff. anyone know if those pads can be used safely on street driving? i know some racing pads require warming up before they bite, is this pad one of those?

Matt RX8

How many days are you guys getting out of your pads?

I'm a novice and have done 2 days at the track, 6 autocrosses and 5000 miles driving and my OEMs are half gone.

I'll be changing the pads before my next event in 2 weeks and use my half gone pads to drive home from the event if necessary.

Is there a cheap replacement to OEM pads and rotors (i.e. Autozone special) or is there a more economical track pad that I can get more than 2-3 track days from?

I'm learning to change my pads next weekend so if it is easy, I might go to track only pads in the future.

crossbow

mike,

If you run racing pads on the street...the big thing to remember is that everyone else stops slower then you do.

Running XP9's on the street usually results in me stopping later then other cars...always good to keep an eye on that rearview mirror and make sure you aren't putting yourself in a situation resulting in bodywork!

RPIRX-8

I got replacement front rotors for $75 a piece from www.adrenalineracing.com. The rears are $50.

BlueRenesis82

How is the track life on those pads RP?

RX8SpdDmn

I went to the DE at Watkins Glen with the GVC BMW CCA and had a great time. NO ONE had the HP+ pads in stock for the front, so I went with stock pads (7000 street miles) and fresh Super Blue fluid. This was only my 2nd DE, but they placed me in the Advanced group. It ended up being appropriate, as I was only passed once the entire weekend (by an Integra GS-R race car ), yet was passing M5s and every generation of M3. I was signed off to run solo on the second day.

I would have appreciated the greater bite of the Hawks and I ended up running the rear pads down to the metal. The dealer replaced my fronts, which were also just about gone, with the new pad under the TSB, but I didn't realize that the TSB only applied to the fronts. I put Hawk HPS pads on the rear for now. The new front pads suck, btw. They don't dust quite as much, but they have lower bite and increased fade.

Anyway, the school was a lot of fun and the car did well, save for the engine cutting out a bit at the end of 2 sessions. I had experienced this on the street a couple weeks before the DE and took the car in. There was no fault code in the computer, but they updated to the N flash and the hotter spark plugs. The car felt smoother and a tad more powerful. I've had the car back in and they don't know why the engine cuts out. It did it again today. It occurs at high rpm and high speed in the upper gears. It cuts out, then comes back on. I was low on gas, but not out, and I was going in a straight line, so it wasn't sloshing. Any ideas?

So, at the DE, I got into one little incident at about 80-85 mph with a Lotus Esprit TT-V8. You can see it on video here:

www.scottbarton.net/anthony/theglen/videos

Please "right-click" and download!!

Enjoy, and feel free to comment here or via email.
Thanks!

BlueRenesis82

When the engine was cutting out would it only let you rev up to around 6k? If so I had the same problem at RA when I whacked the rev limited pretty hard.

BlueRenesis82

Yeah, you did get a little out of shape at the end. I was surprised that the Lotus didn't just walk away from you. Those cars are mothaf*ckin fast

Matt RX8

If you were down to about a quarter of a tank than it was your fuel cutting out. This happenned to me at the end of both days at Road America.

It would cut out on straightaways, usually when I was over 100 mph or so. Just keep 1/2 tank in your car at all times and you should be fine.

crossbow

Is that a baffling problem with the tank, or a pickup issue? The 3.0 V6 duratecs have issues with the same type of problem, but it usually occurs because the filter sock on the fuel pump has become clogged.

Theres a little disc at the bottom of the filter thats too blame, as it gets clogged WAY too easily. Removing the little disc seems to solve the problem. (The car has 3 fuel filters, so its not as if the fuel isn't being properly filted with it missing)



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