no, it should probably be one in the racing forum instead anyway

nobody has ever posted the steering wheel/airbag weight

Edit: 6.25 lbs according to my scale, but it only reads in 1/4 lbs increments so +/- 1/8 lbs

 

Im gonna take my steering wheel off, couple yrs ago when Wayne did my engine, the steering wheel was a bit off center.

will take it off sometime next week, hope I remember to weight it. lol

 

that's a spline alignment issue down at the steering rack/u-joint

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Curious as the weight of some of the interior parts

Sun visors, floor mats, shift ****, shift boot etc.

 

question!

would aftermarket rotors be much lighter than the stock rotors??

If the Stock Front Brake Rotors are 18.5lbs each
and Stock Rear Brake Rotors are 12.5lbs each

 

seriously, why do you ask every question that comes to your head? Have you tried learning to use the search function? It will benefit you in the future.

Here. Click this link. Try using it to get further answers.
And (off topic here, but relevant to you), if you have a question about items for sale, especially on OLD threads, try sending them a private message, instead of bumping threads that the seller hasn't bumped for a reason...

 

on my Base model (non-BOSE) the radio/CD unit & chassis only came to about the same weight with the front dash panel.



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I just looked at it again over the weekend. The BOSE unit is heavy.

 

Well it helps if I have the scale set on lbs rather than kg revised the non-Bose stereo weight above.

Radiator with fans & shroud attached: 14.5 lbs.

Both interior windshield sun visors with screws: 1.25 lbs.

Air pump with mounting bracket & control valve with piping: 4.75 lbs.


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I want to remove the head unit but retain my heating for winter, I need to de mist the windows somehow as I still drive it on the street sometimes.

looks like a fun wiring job.

 

Does anyone make front fenders in carbon fibre that I can buy?

edit: just answered my own question http://carbonfiberhoods.com/cbk-carb...2004-2008.html

 

No, the HVAC panel bolts to the backside of the stereo dash panel. You just make a thin aluminum sheet to replace replace the stereo dash panel, trace and cut the hole pattern on it for the HVAC panel to bolt and protrude through the aluminum sheet just like on the stereo dash panel and you are good. It will only save you about a pound that way over just unbolting the head unit chassis from the stereo dash panel and just using it with the HVAC panel attached. I'm sensing that you may not have realized that the bulk of the head unit just unbolts from the backside of the stereo dash panel. There aren't any holes or anything. It looks like you still have a stereo because the ***** etc are all electronic switches integral to the dash panel. Just unbolting the head unit chassis from the back cuts 5.25 lbs. I'll take some pics later.


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Yep I was going to say, there are a few screws that connect the face of the stereo/hvac panel to the stereo. Once you unscrew, the face pops right off.

same goes for the s2 if anyone needs to know

 

Better check the weight. The OE fenders are paper thin. Like the OE hood I have a feeling that a cosmetic CF part will likely weigh more. If you are doing any wheel-wheel combat, CF shards are not tire friendly.

 

Thanks for the reply's team and paimon very much appreciated.

I am aware that the head unit can be pulled apart but when I did some testing the heater only worked when all the plugs in the back of the head unit where connected, this was a while ago now so ill have another look.


As far as the fenders go, no you wouldn't think there would be too much weight to be lost, I would Image that they would be only a few pounds max, fitment and guard rolling is another issue.

Most likely not worth the effort.

My car is at that stage where I'm running out of things to remove, every gram counts.

 

Just double checked and I was right the heater controls only work when all 3 plugs are connected at the back of the head unit, (AUS delivered luxury model with climate control)

Disappointing...

 

HID front leveling sensor (GT) - 0.72 lbs (pretty heavy for what it is)

 

Did you look at the electrical diagram? It may just need some rewiring to get all the signals to connect.

 

I'm curious to see if anyone can figure that out, I'd like to remove my stereo and keep the climate controls functional.

 

OE radiator (Calsonic) - 7.5 lbs
Fan assembly (w/fans) - 7.0 lbs! Mmm...

 

Many thanks for putting this list together. In process of getting an LFX V6 conversion done and weight savings is a BIG priority for me. I'll try to add to the list once things start coming off the car.

Ray

 

I read this whole thread and did not find the weight of the differential.

 

You may have missed this one: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...7/#post3317971


My additions (first two appear to contradict previous measurements):

Stock carbon fiber shaft (used): 12.8 lb
Mazdatrix aluminum shaft (new): 12.3 lb

Stock catalytic converter (70k): 22.3 lb
Stock cat converter gutted: 19.0 lb
Racing Beat resonated midpipe: 17.6 lb

Measured with a calibrated digital commercial scale.

 

Agreed, but even if it was stickied, much of the information is stale. The OP hasn't been on since 2013, and the last time the OP itself was edited was 2009.

What would be better is an in-forum Wiki so everybody could edit it and update it with accurate and useful information, instead of having it dispersed throughout rambling threads filled with copious off-topic and flat-wrong posts. Or even if the Mods would just start editing the OP themselves to keep it current and accurate.

.

 

Rear differential, drained of fluid, including aluminum top mount structure: 82lbs
Rear axles: 18lbs
Power Plant Frame (PPF): 34lbs