RotaryZZ

Anyone has brought their 8 down to the track yet? I would expect the stock pad can't stand the repeated hard use at the track and will fad easily. What are some of the choices available for our car.
I've been thinking of the Mazdaspeed pads but I'm afraid thats only an upgraded version of the stock pad, so it still not suited for track use. I've tried Porterfield before in my bimmer. That's ok and I would like to try something different in my 8.

On related subject, does anyone tried changing their brake pads on the 8 yet. I wonder how difficult/easy it is and what tools do you need for the job.

TIA,
Pete

syntrix

I'm in the same boat. 3 hard and fast track days, and I'm sure my squealing is from pad damage or cracking.

I've seen some other sites with various brands.... also wondering the MS pad is that much better for track use.

Install looks simple... just like any other car.

RotaryZZ

Syntrix,

Is the stock pad fad pretty early from your experience. My experience on the track is all stock pads fad after a few hot laps. The only exception I saw is the Porsche which are track-proven in stock form. The fading can be partially fixed with good brake duct.

As for the installation of the pads, have you tried it yourself already? Could you give me a more detailed description of the steps/procedure and what size of nut wrench do you need etc. I appreciate it.

Btw, I wonder do you need to have a dedicated set of rotors to go with the track pads??

TIA,
Pete

syntrix

Stock pads... really had 0 fade on the track days that I've done. Most other cars, even my old 320+ hp wrx with aftermarket pads and rotors would get some fade pretty fast.

YMMV though. I havent' pulled the brakes yet, but I've been under there making suspension adjustments all the time. Brakes look very simple... just like any other car.

RotaryZZ

>Stock pads... really had 0 fade on the track days that I've done

Really! Do the 8 have the brake duct set up under the front spoiler? Btw, which tracks have you taken the 8 to so far?

>Brakes look very simple... just like any other car.
Are the brake caliper held in place by two hex nuts at the back side? Any spring clip thing on the front side that you need to take out before you can ply open the caliper??

Cheers,
Pete

AlexCisneros

I've noticed that Hawk has some sponsor stickers on the Speedsource RX-8. But they do not have pads on their web site yet.

I've also heard that the Speedsource RX-8 uses a stock brake set up.

Anyone know if this is true or if Hawk is making pads and just haven't released them to the public?

RotaryZZ

>I've also heard that the Speedsource RX-8 uses a stock brake >set up.
I'll be surprised that they use the stock setup for real racing. If not using the Hawk, they would at least use the Mazdaspeed pads.

Genom

They are using different pads as well as fluid and lines. But everything else is sotck.

RotaryZZ

>They are using different pads ........
So the question is what pads are they using!

AlexJ

I would have though that they would use the Hawk Blue pads, but I was talking to the guys at Hawk today and they will not have pads ready until April. Maybe Speedsource is running some R&D Hawk pads.

Genom

Speedsource guys said it was info they couldnt give out yet.

John Corbitt

I noticed significant fade at Sebring. My 8 is stock. I think I need cross drilled brakes with Hawks to reduice the fade. The rest of the car did great. Redlined 4th gear on the last straight.

John

Speed Racer

Personally, I'd hold off on the cross drilled rotors and just start off with hi-temp brake pads and fluid. If that doesn't work then you should think about trying a big brake kit from someone reputable like StopTech.

AlexJ

I would just do the braided steel lines, good fluid (Motul), and good pads. (Hawk blues for track use they are in development now and will be out in April) This is what my car will be using to run in SCCA T-2 and is pretty much what Speedsource is running in the Grand-Am cars.

RotaryZZ

I'm wondering if you switch to track pad for the track, do you need a dedicated brake discs for that? In other words, one set of track pad/disc and another set, possibly stock, for everyday use.

TIA,
Pete

zerohour

During track day at Streets of Willow I was amazed how well our stock pads were doing.

I even received a compliment on how good they were from an instructor.

VividRacing.com

Well I figured I'd throw in my 2 cents. The stock pads lasted about 3 road race sessions before they were completely cooked and started squeeling like little piggies. Since then I've upgraded to the StopTech 355mm big brake kit. This has greaty improoved stopping. Currently I'm running the Pagent Orange race pad that StopTech recomends and let me tell you, I'd swear that I've cut off about 60 ft (or at least it seems) in braking distance from stock.

When I was still using the stock setup and cooked my pads I tried out a set of the Project U titan kia race pads. They have a carbon/titanium flouride compound that holds up well with out fade, once they're bedded in.

Check them out -Race pads

As far as the Motul fluid and steel lines those would be significant enough for most people. The lines will ad more of a firm, less spongy feel but the fluid I don't recomend using. Since the clutch and brake master cylinder share the same resevior it's recomended to only use DOT 3 fluid. I ran into this problem when I put the brake kit on and intended to run Motul RBF600. Both StopTech and each dealer that I talked to said the same thing. Only DOT 3.

So my next task is to make a resivor for the clutch fluid so I can run the good stuff in the brake system.

RotaryZZ

So which one would u recommend for track sessions? Pagid Orange or Project U titan kia and how much are they?

Separately, how difficult it is to replace the pads yourself at the track. What tools do u need and what are the steps?

TIA,
Pete

VividRacing.com

For the stock calipers I liked the Project U Titain Kia pads. I don't think the Pagids are available yet for the stock calipers. Click the link in my reply befor this one and it'll take you to the pads on our site.

RotaryZZ

What about the installation procedure? What tools you need and what are the steps after you take off the wheels??

Btw, is Project U Titain Kia pads works only at high/track temperature? I wonder how it compares to the Mazdaspeed pads?

VividRacing.com

The tools are basic enough that anyone can do the install. I don't remember the exact sizes but if you have a basic tool set then you should have everyting you'll need. The Titain Kia pads work best when they come up to temp but still provide good bite at lower temps. Remember though that you should be swaping pads before you go to the track. It's best to keep a set of track and street pads and swap them accordingly. Race pads are usually more abrasive and will grind the rotors down prematurely if driven daily.

RotaryZZ

Do u mind telling me what's the basic step to replace the pads in the RX-8? In the bimmer that I used to have, all u need is to take off the spring clip at the front side of the caliper. Then Unscrew two hex bolts on the back side of the caliper, ply the caliper open and that's it.

Do u want to have a separate rotor to go with the track pad so you have a complete set just for track use? I've heard that pads do lay down materials on the rotors, so I'm afraid that it may affect the day-to-day driving if you use the same rotor.

Separately, do u sell any pedals set for the RX-8? I found the stock setup is not as ideal as I would like it to be for fast heel and toe. As I said somewhere in the forum before, I found the E36 BMW has just the perfect setup in any cars that I've driven so far, its just very natural!

VividRacing.com

Yes, replacing the pads is similar to the BMW as far as spring clips, and the bolts on the back side of the caliper.

As far as the pads and rotors, yes new pads do lay down a layer of compound on the rotor but it won't matter to much to use the same rotor with the different pads. The main thing to make sure you do is bed the pads in properly before you go to the track. You can do this over a period of 3 days. 60 to 10mph stops at 70% pedel force about 10 times in a row, or untill the pads start to feel like they are fading. A good way to calculate the amount of force used when stopping is that about the time you feel the ABS kicking in, you want to feather that threashold and never bring it to a complete stop. This can cause over heating or glazing on the rotor and will wear them out prematurely. Let me know if you need me to explain in greater detail. It's easier for me to tell you over the phone as apposed to typing it all out. Give me a buzz if you need to .

RotaryZZ

Thanks. As far as the bolts at the back side of the caliper, do you remember you need a hex bit or some other tools to do the job?? And for the spring clip, I've looked at it and I'm not too sure how to unclip them. Do u just use a flat head screw driver for the job. I think I should have some extra spare clips handy just in case.

I've a track session coming up in April. I may get something ready for that.

VividRacing.com

The bolts on the back side of the caliper are regular hex bolts from what I remember. The spring clip can be removed with a flat head srewdriver, yes. Let me know when your ready for some new pads.