Tanabe Front Swaybar
01-17-2006, 03:05 PM
#1
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Tanabe Front Swaybar
Has anyone run this in BS Solo? It's listed as 30.4mm but no wall thickness is given. Curious how it compares to RB and Mazdaspeed bars. Looks like it might fit in the middle somewhere.
01-17-2006, 03:30 PM
#2
Tanabe is a 30.4mm bar with a 5mm thick wall.
Racing Beat is 32mm with a 4.76mm wall.
For some reason I think the Tanabe was a tiny bit stiffer but I am sure they are close. Either way both are way stiffer than MS.
The MS is 27.2mm with 4mm wall vs OE 27mm with 3.4mm wall.
Not sure on the wall thickness, but this one looks interesting:
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...ducts_id/13158
Racing Beat is 32mm with a 4.76mm wall.
For some reason I think the Tanabe was a tiny bit stiffer but I am sure they are close. Either way both are way stiffer than MS.
The MS is 27.2mm with 4mm wall vs OE 27mm with 3.4mm wall.
Not sure on the wall thickness, but this one looks interesting:
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...ducts_id/13158
01-17-2006, 03:45 PM
#3
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Thanks,
I saw that one as well. Looks like an adjustable RB bar. Unless it's thinner it won't get into the range we need. The matching rear bar is a 19mm which is the same as the RB bar as well. Don't understand how a 32mm bar works with the stock bushings?
I saw that one as well. Looks like an adjustable RB bar. Unless it's thinner it won't get into the range we need. The matching rear bar is a 19mm which is the same as the RB bar as well. Don't understand how a 32mm bar works with the stock bushings?
Last edited by Sparky; 01-17-2006 at 03:56 PM.
01-17-2006, 03:53 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Sparky
Thanks,
I saw that one as well. Looks like an adjustable bar RB bar. Unless it's thinner it won't get into the range we need. The matching rear bar is a 19mm which is the same as the RB bar as well. Don't understand how a 32mm bar works with the stock bushings?
I saw that one as well. Looks like an adjustable bar RB bar. Unless it's thinner it won't get into the range we need. The matching rear bar is a 19mm which is the same as the RB bar as well. Don't understand how a 32mm bar works with the stock bushings?
Getting 32mm bushings would be easy, RB has them.
01-17-2006, 04:07 PM
#5
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
Come on dude its easy.... When half the stuff you sell is bling it only matters how it looks on the car not how it fits. .
.
01-17-2006, 04:12 PM
#6
I am sure they are right and it will fit the stock bushings. A 300lb man can also drive a Miata. Somethings just don't fit right. Not sure why they would sell a trick adjustable bar and not toss in a $15.00 set of poly bushings that are the right size. 
01-17-2006, 05:13 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Sparky
Thanks,
I saw that one as well. Looks like an adjustable RB bar. Unless it's thinner it won't get into the range we need. The matching rear bar is a 19mm which is the same as the RB bar as well. Don't understand how a 32mm bar works with the stock bushings?
I saw that one as well. Looks like an adjustable RB bar. Unless it's thinner it won't get into the range we need. The matching rear bar is a 19mm which is the same as the RB bar as well. Don't understand how a 32mm bar works with the stock bushings?
01-17-2006, 06:56 PM
#10
there is and I'm working on it, just so you know my original supplier didn't deliver despite taking $everal grand of my money and now a lawsuit is looming
I'm talking to another supplier about getting them built, if for no other reason than try to salvage some of my loss
I'm talking to another supplier about getting them built, if for no other reason than try to salvage some of my loss
01-17-2006, 09:29 PM
#11
Registered User
I ran the Tanabe front in BS (ever so briefly). I think the RB is steel where the Tanabe is Chromoly. IMHO the Tanabe is a bit stiffer and lighter. For the money, go with the Tanabe.
01-18-2006, 07:35 AM
#14
Smooth Criminal
Originally Posted by whiterex
Teamrx8, what is the calc to figure out which is the best front bar. Share a little knowledge so that we noobs don't have to ask the questions.
01-18-2006, 10:57 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by whiterex
what is the calc to figure out which is the best front bar.
http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index...v2&id=105&c=52
For hollow bars, you can calculate the stiffness of the outer diameter of the bar and subtract the the stiffness of the inner diamater (the hollow space) to get a final result. ID = OD - 2 * wall thickness.
I was curious how to compare bars, so I dug up this info from an old thread yesterday. I also was bored at work and made an excel spreadsheet that will let you type in the dimensions and spit out the stiffness.
01-18-2006, 11:08 AM
#17
Smooth Criminal
what is the calc to figure out which is the best front bar.
01-18-2006, 11:29 AM
#18
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For your enjoyment...
To find out how much you need to drill on the stock/MS bar to increase stiffness,
use the following formula:
A - Length of end perpendicular to B (torque arm - inches)
B - Length of center section (inches)
C - Length of end (inches)
D - Diameter bar (inches)
Code:
OD WT ID RR % over Stock Stock 27 3.4 20.2 364944 0.0% MS 27.2 4 19.2 411468 12.7% RB 32 4.76 22.48 793197 117.3% Tanabe 30.4 5 20.4 680883 86.6%
use the following formula:
Code:
500,000 D^4
K (lbs/in) = --------------------------------------------------
(0.4244 x A^2 x B) + (0.2264 x C^3)
B
----------------
A| / \ C
| / \
A - Length of end perpendicular to B (torque arm - inches)
B - Length of center section (inches)
C - Length of end (inches)
D - Diameter bar (inches)
Last edited by CRX Millennium; 01-18-2006 at 11:56 AM.
01-18-2006, 11:31 AM
#19
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Right. The fomula is just a tool to give you the relative stiffness between bars. It takes real world testing to determine what kind of stiffness would be best for you.
01-18-2006, 11:39 AM
#20
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IMHO, aggressive driving style will not be well-served with a stiffer bar. The slow-down caused by terminal push in sweepers effectively negates the time gained in transitions. If you have great speed control in slow corners by minding your entry speed, it is not necessary an Achilles' Heel. Afterall, RX-8 is all about smoothness not hack-saw driving out on the course.
01-18-2006, 01:29 PM
#21
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There are limits to everything. You haven't experienced understeer until you drive the RB bar with Koni's. 
The problem isn't turn entry, it's that you can't apply gas until after the apex or you'll push wide. The car just wants to go strait when on the gas. No amount of steering input stops it. About 1/2" of rear toe out will correct it, but then you can't drive you're car on the street with DSC enabled, else it will engage on every corner bringing you to a stop. Try it sometime.
The problem isn't turn entry, it's that you can't apply gas until after the apex or you'll push wide. The car just wants to go strait when on the gas. No amount of steering input stops it. About 1/2" of rear toe out will correct it, but then you can't drive you're car on the street with DSC enabled, else it will engage on every corner bringing you to a stop. Try it sometime.
01-18-2006, 01:51 PM
#22
Originally Posted by CRX Millennium
IMHO, aggressive driving style will not be well-served with a stiffer bar.
There are other setup changes that can be made to make the car push less in sweepers. Though I honestly don't think we saw any decrease in steady-state grip when we put the TeamRX8 bar on the front. We made some "minor"
rear toe changes for the last event of '05 that IMO made the car much more fun and faster coming out of slow corners.
01-18-2006, 03:36 PM
#23
we're trying to locate the material now, I want to use a special wall thickness to refine the stiffness range and it's not a very popular size
hope to have some answers soon, I know you've all been waiting a long time
that formula above is not what you need to calculate the difference in the hole position, instead just use (original arm length/new arm length) x (previous change from OE). The original RX-8 arm length is 7.375", so all you need to know is how much you changed it with the new hole position, assuming you shortened the MS bar mounting point by 5/8"
(7.375/6.875) x 12.7% = 13.6% which is still next to nothing because the MS bar is just not stiff enough for a front bar only application
the calculations posted in the earlier thread also assumed all the bars had the same OE arm length, that's not always the case
hope to have some answers soon, I know you've all been waiting a long time
that formula above is not what you need to calculate the difference in the hole position, instead just use (original arm length/new arm length) x (previous change from OE). The original RX-8 arm length is 7.375", so all you need to know is how much you changed it with the new hole position, assuming you shortened the MS bar mounting point by 5/8"
(7.375/6.875) x 12.7% = 13.6% which is still next to nothing because the MS bar is just not stiff enough for a front bar only application
the calculations posted in the earlier thread also assumed all the bars had the same OE arm length, that's not always the case
Last edited by TeamRX8; 01-18-2006 at 03:49 PM.
01-18-2006, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
Not sure on the wall thickness, but this one looks interesting:
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...ducts_id/13158
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/p...ducts_id/13158