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Rear Wheel Stud/Wheel Hub Bolt Distress

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Old 08-15-2006, 11:54 AM
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I've always used 108 lb-ft torque with aftermarket nuts, never an issue and I won't run less
Old 08-15-2006, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I've always used 108 lb-ft torque with aftermarket nuts, never an issue and I won't run less

Same here. Good aftermarket nuts and I torque at 105.
Old 08-23-2006, 12:08 PM
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Clyde - thanks for the tip on the lug nuts. I have had to replace 2 front lugs and had a rear lug fixed. I just ordered some McGard lug nuts as I had no idea the stock lugs are what may have caused this. I started using anti-seize recently and all is well so far.
Old 08-26-2006, 07:41 PM
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Situational update: dealer replaced the rear wheel stud, due to not being able to find any clear instructions on DIY. According to the dealer, wheel bearing, brake caliper, and hub assembly all had to be removed to get one little bolt replaced. Thanks to great Mazda engineering! 2 hr labor charge ~!@$

Bought the good-quality McGard 64002 (M12x1.5) from PepBoys for $8/4-lug-nuts and anti-seize. Torn about applying anti-seize due to overwhelming recommendations from those of you who swear by the lubricant, while tons of warnings can be found against the practice. See:
NASA Stress Test
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...lug-nut-studs/
ScoobyMods
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/arc...hp/t-2884.html
TireRack
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=39
MotorAge
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...4/ai_n15692083

One thing for sure, I will try to use air compressor to clean the stud thread and enclosed lug nuts.
Old 08-26-2006, 07:50 PM
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with the McGard lugs it looks like they will fit my 21mm socket, I would like to confirm that? Anyone who has em.
Old 08-26-2006, 08:00 PM
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Yes, it's fine. 13/16in = 20.6mm. Close enough.
Old 08-26-2006, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CRX Millennium
Yes, it's fine. 13/16in = 20.6mm. Close enough.
umm, I would like to make sure I don't round em off with my impact gun tho, that thing makes like 300 lb/ft
Old 08-26-2006, 08:52 PM
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I've been using a 21mm impact socket with cordless impact gun for at least the last 30 wheel change cycles. No issues yet.

BTW, the $90 (after $10 mail in rebate) I spent at PepBoys for their 24v Goodyear Racing cordless impact gun is probably the best $90 I've ever spent on autocross related "stuff." Only twice have I had to resort to a breaker bar in those 30 wheel change cycles (=1200 lugnut removal instances) with the wheels up in the air.
Old 08-26-2006, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by clyde
I've been using a 21mm impact socket with cordless impact gun for at least the last 30 wheel change cycles. No issues yet.

BTW, the $90 (after $10 mail in rebate) I spent at PepBoys for their 24v Goodyear Racing cordless impact gun is probably the best $90 I've ever spent on autocross related "stuff." Only twice have I had to resort to a breaker bar in those 30 wheel change cycles (=1200 lugnut removal instances) with the wheels up in the air.
hmm, my Milwaukee one was significantly more expensive. Maybe when/if it dies I'll look into that one.
Old 08-26-2006, 10:54 PM
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+1 for Pepboys' 24v Goodyear Racing cordless impact gun. One NiCd charge lasted 9 wheel change cycles (off and on as 1).
Old 08-27-2006, 02:23 PM
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yeah, it's a great buy
Old 08-28-2006, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CRX Millennium
Situational update: dealer replaced the rear wheel stud, due to not being able to find any clear instructions on DIY. According to the dealer, wheel bearing, brake caliper, and hub assembly all had to be removed to get one little bolt replaced. Thanks to great Mazda engineering! 2 hr labor charge ~!@$

Bought the good-quality McGard 64002 (M12x1.5) from PepBoys for $8/4-lug-nuts and anti-seize. Torn about applying anti-seize due to overwhelming recommendations from those of you who swear by the lubricant, while tons of warnings can be found against the practice. See:
NASA Stress Test
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...lug-nut-studs/
ScoobyMods
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/arc...hp/t-2884.html
TireRack
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=39
MotorAge
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...4/ai_n15692083

One thing for sure, I will try to use air compressor to clean the stud thread and enclosed lug nuts.
I've been using anti-sieze on the RX-8 and Miata, and I won't stop using it, as long as I am swapping the wheels on a semi-weekly basis.

Theoretically, the lube reduces the amount of torque required to get the correct pre-load in the bolt. So, if you use anti-seize and use the full 108 ft-lbs specified by Mazda you are stretching the studs by a greater amount than Mazda intended and putting greater forces into the hub.

Whether or not this is a problem is hard to say. Fatigue failures are notoriously hard to predict. But it's equally hard to predict how quickly the studs will degrade due to friction & contamination in the un-lubed state. Galling can also cause failures, as already noted.

I run 90 ft-lbs with anti-sieze as a compromise. Don't know if it's right or wrong, just a guess.
Old 08-28-2006, 10:18 PM
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Agreed.


I worry more about galling threads than breaking the stud through over-torquing.
Old 09-21-2006, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by CRX Millennium
Is that so? The bolts sit atop of brake shield in the attached pdf. How would hammering affect the wheel bearing? If I was to cut the damaged bolt short, than backing it out should by easy. The problem is putting the new long bolt in with limited clearance space.

I think the board will benefit in a huge way, if Jason can do a DIY on the rear. The front is here in case anyone is interested: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-replacing-front-wheel-studs-73670/
How would a hammer affect it?

How would hitting your average hole in the highway at 80mph with a 3000lb car on top of it affect it.

Old 07-02-2007, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
I have done one of each, it is easy. Give it a wack with a hammer and it will pop out. Then use a spare nut and some washers to pull the new one in. If you rotate it to the right spot both front and rear can be done with only taking off the wheel.
Wondering whether you can remember how to get the rear studs off while not taking more than just the wheel off (certainly not the hub). I have had issues at the track. I found out how to do the fronts with only removing the tire and was surprised to read your experiences.

Please help a fellow racer with issues at the track. This experience has made me hate and fear tire changes. Right now, if there were issues at the rear, I'm done for the weekend....which is an awful feeling.

Thanks.


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