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Race pads??

Old Aug 1, 2007 | 01:22 PM
  #26  
mac11's Avatar
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sandpaper or scotchbrite pad will take off ALL the material from both sets of pads. RE-bedding will be required afterwards. If your rotors are not run out this should take care of it.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 01:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mac11
sandpaper or scotchbrite pad will take off ALL the material from both sets of pads. RE-bedding will be required afterwards. If your rotors are not run out this should take care of it.
Seems like a lot less work, just swapping rotors lol
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 01:54 PM
  #28  
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It takes all of 10 minutes to do a pair of rotors. And sandpaper is a lot less expensive than rotors.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 02:16 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mac11
sandpaper or scotchbrite pad will take off ALL the material from both sets of pads. RE-bedding will be required afterwards. If your rotors are not run out this should take care of it.
That's good advice...as long as you are not abrading the surface to a point where you've compromised the rotor's surface i.e. no longer "square to the world"...which I've also seen people do!

I understand there is a scotchbrite drill attachment that is pretty light abrasive that works great for this use.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #30  
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^^ very true. when using sandpaper it does not take much to get the deposited material off the rotors. You don't have to attack it like you are resurfacing a cabinet. just scuff it up. You can generally tell when you have taken the coating off.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 03:59 PM
  #31  
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From: Misinformation Director - Evolv Chicago
I glazed my rotors this summer...all it took was some scotchbrite and about 1 hour later - including some test runs - I was back on the track.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 05:55 PM
  #32  
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I'll do it after RA this weekend.
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 06:15 PM
  #33  
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hell we can do it AT road atlanta--just bring some
olddragger
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 08:09 PM
  #34  
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I though it would take a longer time than that, defiantly trying it out.

Carbotech XP8's all around
or
HAWK HP+ in fronts, and HPS on rears,
and later (before the other events) on I get another set of rotors and pads devoted to track use.
I can get the hawk combo for about 110
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 06:32 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SouthFL
ATE Blue and ATE Yellow are the same thing

I've used both Motul RBF600 and ATE at the track and both perform equally in my experience. ATE is not DOT approved, yet it will outperform regular fluid.
Yes, one is dyed blue and the other yellow.

BMW/MINI uses ATE Yellow. ATE Yellow is DOT approved.

A lot of ppl thought ATE blue is an 'upgrade', but it really is not. Rotating between yellow and blue fluids makes flushing easier.

Motul 600 has higher boiling point. Both dry and wet.

Last edited by blipblip; Aug 2, 2007 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 03:02 PM
  #36  
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From: Sunny See attle
^^Ditto. The important point is that you are using DOT 4 fluid rather than DOT 3 fluid that the car came stock with. Regardless of the color.

I have the Axxis Ultimates and have run them at 1 track day at Pacific Raceway. They ran fine with no problems and no brake fade. I'm by no means a serious racer and the car still has higher limits than I do but I was able to work them pretty hard for extended periods of time, four 30 minute sessions. I've been happy with them and haven't had any issues. They make a lot of dust but wheel cleaner is cheap.
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