The car is amazing at road racing. As many people have attested to, the true fit for this car is on a road race track.

I've been in NASA since this past May and love it. The car is doing extremely well and I'm starting to be well known here for the cars abilities with me driving it.

I have a video uploading as we speak from an HPDE-2 race I did in August. As soon as it's done, I'll upload it and link it here.

I agree that brake fluid is a must. I run Motul Oil, Diff, Tranny, and Brake fluid and LOVE it. It really makes a huge difference with the car. I ran stock fluids on my first race event (my Time Attack event I held in May), and the following event felt like a whole new car with the fluids swapped out.

The next best thing besides brake upgrades is the suspension. I run Greddy coilovers with 32 way adjustable dampers. It really helps dial in some extra traction on varying tracks, and greatly minimizes body roll.

The next step to me would be the cooling upgrades. I melted my rear bumper from racing a 20 min session. Granted that is from high EGTs and can't be helped, my water levels were too high after that session.

Video coming soon! Get your car on the track, and enjoy it!

 

Yeah, what's the story, the CG Lock can work on these cars? I thought the belt doubling back in the buckle meant this baby wouldn't work. Anyone confirm?

 

Yup they work fine. Kristopher_d has one and uses it regularly.

 

ditto. All you need do is mount the Cg Lock mechanism backwards on the belt from what the pictures in the directions show, a small matter. No twisted belt, no problem man.

 

Last questions on the brake fluids...

Should one container of ATE super blue be enough (ill buy two in case), Ogracing.com the best price? 11 each, 8 shipping for one, 9 shipping for two.

Stainless brake lines... are they worth it while im doing all this anyway?

Any tools or tips for the brake flush (never done one before, but i have internets and courage)? I heard brake wrench, but dont see the difference between one and my normal wrenches. Ive changed out the rotors with my normal wrenches already.

i ordered a CG lock... would be really useful to counteract the slideyness of my leather.

 

- buy two, good to have too much rather than too little. You'll get to use it later on anyway.
- SS lines are good, but not sure if it's really worth the hassle, but good to have.
- normal wrench, I'd say get "speed bleeders" rather than the SS lines. The special bleeders are REALLY worth it and super easy to install, vs the lines which aren't.

 

and speed bleeders do what exactly? aside from bleeding speedily?

 

Get the speed bleeders. They allow you to bleed the brakes by yourself. Simple, inexpensive, effective. Forget the stainless steel brake lines, mostly for show. Some claim a firmer feel in the pedal but not much. Some SS lines can leak. I've never used them, they are a lot of work and money for small or no gain. My feeling is there are better places to put your money.

 

not unsurprisingly you'll find the answer here www.speedbleeder.com

 

size?

 

Call 'em up. They have the correct size written down at SpeedBleer.com when you place the order- if I recall, the website doesn't have the info posted.

I think it's M10 X 1.0 and M8 X 1.0, but don't hold me to it.

 

I have a mighty-vac and Kristopher has speed bleeders. I am jealous of his speed bleeders. It's much faster and you get a better flush because you are using the pedal(master cylinder) to push the fluid through the system and the ABS is open. With the vacuum system it's hard to get much out of the system quickly and I'm never sure if I'm getting enough.

PS Bleed in this order:
Master Cylinder
Clutch line
Passenger rear
drivers rear
passenger front
drivers front

 

any tips on finding the master cyl and clutch line bleed screws? or are there screws? do you get speedbleeders for those too?

 

The clutch one is hidden, I think you can see it down past the oil filter...extremely nasty to get to...actually don't bother, it doesn't affect the brake bleeding. Only some 8's have a MC bleed screw... they did away with it 07 I think, not sure. It's on the driver side of the MC on mine, impossible to miss and yes you do get a SB for it of course (if it is there)!

 

You could always gravity bleed. Just make sure the reservoir is above the calipers and open up the nipples (haha...nipples) attached to catch bottles and keep the reservoir topped off. Takes a little while but I usually wax, clean the interior, etc. in the meantime. Works the best in my experience and it's super easy.

 

PBlue, I guess I have to be the one to tell you....there'a DIY section on the forum that has virtually every procedure in existence for the car...usually multiple threads. You should go and review it, much easier than asking us to parrot up details piece by piece... really it would be.... just saying

 

+1 read the DIY and then ask questions.

I didn't know the '07's don't have MC bleeders. too bad. I like getting clean fluid in the MC first so I don't have to push it all down into the lines to get it out.

 

theres no diy for brake flushing, and i was asking for followup to your statement. you said "dont bother bleed the clutch". im asking for verification from someone else.

 

If you're going to switch fluids you need to bleed the clutch line it's down next to the oil filter neck. It is doable. Switching to speed bleeders on the clutch line is not really worth the hassle IMO unless you have the tranny out already.

Also here is a DIY for the fluids linked from the DIY on replacing brakes. Took 5 minutes to find.

http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...x8_fluids.html

 

Turkey baster will get out almost everything from the M/C reservoir.. Just watch you don't drip on the paint!

 

I bought a speed bleeder for the clutch anyway... If i dont end up using it, maybe someone at a local meet will take it off my hands.

But thanks a lot for that link... i've read many threads, just can never be too sure. I am switching fluids, so i will get it up on stands and try to find the clutch bleeder, was hoping someone had a picture to make it easier.

 

No MC bleeder screw on my 05.

 

Checked the shop manual. The brake bleed proceedure does not include the clutch line. The clutch bleed proceedure does not include the brake lines. If they were linked to cause one to influence the other, this would not be the case.

 

They are connected inasmuch as the two systems share the same fluid.

The clutch line passes through a high-heat area, and the fluid will suffer similar overheating / additive degradation as do the brakes.

If you've already got your car up on jackstands for the brakes, you are adding only about 5 mins (tops) to bleed the clutch slave cylinder as well.

EDIT: Oh, and the shop manual is not written for DIY'ers, it is a quick get-in, get-out, how to fix for techs. There are a number of instances where it is just a good idea for an owner to service multiple items / systems when something is torn down anyway. Just my 2cents....

 

They share the same fluid reservoir, not the same working fluid. There is a different master cycl for each. When you bleed, you bleed the master cycl for each system., not the common reservoir.

There is no need to put the car up on 4 stands, you can more easily do it by just raising 1st the back end, then the front.