TSY

Hi
I'm a noob to RX8s and rotary engines and will be taking my new (to me) 2007 RX8 to the track for the first time next week. I've been reading so much stuff here my head is spinning! (very helpful though!)

Right now it's totally stock. I will be doing the following in the next week:

Change Oil, Tranny and diff fluids
change the air filter
Change to SS brake lines and flush lines
Hotchkis sways
17x9 RPF1s with 255/40 Hankook RS3s
Add premix (whatever I can find here-probably lucas or redline)

If I have time, change pads to Hawk HP+

Still trying to pick out a set of coilovers and then will do an alignment, but I won't get that done by next week.

Any other suggestions to prep the car? Anything special I need to consider?

I have an NB Miata that has been my track toy up to now. Any suggestions on driving the RX8 would also be appreciated!

Thanks!

tom

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Good list..

I would add picking up a few of the little seat belt clip things for child seats. Use it to lock down your driver side seat belt so you do not flop around in the car. Makes a huge difference.

Definitely find time for the pads, put them above the ss brake lines, but still do the full brake fluid flush.

I would wait on the coil overs until you get a feel for the car.

Check out post by trackaddict and eric meyer. Both have great info on driving.

Post how you like the RS3's, especially how they talk. I am looking hard at them, but want a tire that tells me before it lets go. I have V12 right now, and they made a significant difference. Friend put his Porsche in the trees with quiet tires.

Good luck.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

I'm going to be running r-s3's next week as well.

Add these to your list

- Seafoam
- Extra oil and premix (you will be surprised at how quickly you'll chew through both)
- Check your endlinks when you install your sways
- Tape your battery terminals down (that or do it after tech inspection tells you to do so)

Thats all i can think of in addition to everything thats already been stated.

bse50

I would run it completely stock the first time, it's a great experience and the best way to determine the next steps according to your needs
Other than that it looks like you're following the right path, do as Green04 and L337fpc said and you'll experience a great weekend.
If you didn't do it already change your spark plugs!

dmitrik4

iTrader: (5)

as far as driving it...it's going to be a lot like your NB. more chassis and grip than power.

this is my list from my first track day:

-Engine oil/filter
-Trans and diff fluids
-Brake fluid flush
-Coolant level check (it was relatively new already; if yours is old, change it)
-Track pads (I used the Cobalt CSRs)
-Check battery tie-down (they didn't make me tape the terminals; we have a battery box)
-Alignment (was due anyway) and check for loose suspension bolts
-Recheck lug nut torque, oil level and tire pressures the morning of

Make sure you fill up on gas and bring extra oil. I ran through >2/3 tank in 4 sessions (~70 minutes).

ganseg

iTrader: (5)

Don't let your fuel get low - at some point it will have starvation because of the tank stradling the driveshaft.

How are your plugs, coils and fuel pump screen?

When you put the premix in, think of ways to get it to disperse. Dumping 8oz of regular 2 stroke oil may not be good for the fuel pump screen. I buy premix that disperses easily (like Idemitsu or Legend) and I premix it with equal parts gas before I poor it in and I try to poor it into a tank that is half full. So maybe that is overkill, but it is better than impacting fuel flow at the track.


I will really look forward to hearing how it compares to the Miata...also any other cars you have tracked. I came from lightly modified BMWs and the RX-8 is much more neutral. That is where i need the advice. I could put my foot down early in my E36 M3 and it would take a set; the RX-8 is more likely to start sliding. Most of the corners at my 'home' track are 60-120 mph so I was a little less comfortable on my first day out. I have a 3 day weekend there in May.

TopGear8

iTrader: (3)

Good choice on the RS3's. They have more grip at the limit than the Dunlop Star Specs, but have a softer sidewall so through transitions on an autox course they are not as crisp. But you can compensate by more pressure and changes to shock dampning. On a road course they will be great as they like heat more than any other street tire i've found.

TSY

Thanks for all of the suggestions! I need to definitely remember the extra oil and premix- never had to do this before.

The car only has 28k miles, but I realized after reading your posts I should just do it's 30k service.

So now I'm also doing:

plugs
coolant
and whatever else not on my list that's part of the 30k service.


I always go to the track with a full tank (and all fluids), check wheel pressure and torque the lugnuts, tighten any bolt/nuts that are loose! the usual stuff. It's helpful to hear about things specific to the RX8 though- I hate bad surprises!


I love the RS3s on my Miata- of course I've got 225s on 8" wide wheels on that tiny little car, so I don't quite expect the RX8 to be the same. Once I got my suspension sorted out my Miata was quite fast and the tires would gradually loose grip when you pushed them. Lot's of good reports about them and if Tanner Foust won the drift championship on them last year they must be ok!

tom

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Oh, one other thing. I have the progress tech sway bars. Softest on both was not a good thing. Made the car push. That coupled with an early apex resulted in a classroom example of the correct way to miss Turn 9 at Roebling. Most of the adjustable bars are about the same. I would put the front ones on full soft, and move one side up one level on the back as a starting position.

Take a gas can. The starvation point listed above is for a left hander with around a quarter of a tank. Just do not let it get that low until you upgrade the pump.

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

I see flush brake fluid but i dont see with which kind. ATE SuperBlue or Motul RBF600 seem to be the most common and popular of brake fluids for track use.

Enjoy!

TSY

Thanks- that's good to know. I'm sure the Hotchkis are similar so that's a good plan. I need to look into the fuel pump upgrade.

tom

TSY

Ate racing blue alternate with typ 200 (I like changing colors- ok, it's just easier to know when you're totally flushed).

Maybe I'll try to Motul someday when I run out of my cans of Ate.

tom

ganseg

iTrader: (5)

When I change coolant before summer, i drain and fill with distilled water with Redline or another quality brand of Coolant Additive. I figure a little less coolant is good for dealing with high temps, but this way I am not missing the additives that keep my cooling system clean. Before winter I make sure I have enough coolant to prevent freezing.)

Who has a good way to burp the cooling system after a drain and fill?

REDRX3RX8

Hey man, you've been telling us to get a stiffy in the rear sway bar!

I'm still stock yellow stuff with an alignment of -1.7 camber front, and -1.65 camber rear.

I wouldn't change anything, and I ran in the wet on my Hankook ventus v12's, and they only started loosing it when I accelerated hard.

How stiff is good?

I like to travel so, maybe I can visit your track with you sometime.

I already have BHR fuel pump upgrade, and I forgot that annoying surge last year.

dmitrik4

iTrader: (5)

it really depends on the track and tires...if it's tough on brakes and/or you're on r-compounds, something like ATE or Motul is probably a good idea. if you're on street tires and/or the track isn't a brake-eater, fresh quality fluid really should be fine.

JantzenRX-8

iTrader: (9)

I would rather not chance boiling the fluid and losing the brakes

You're right, but its peace of mind.

TSY

I agree- it's cheap peace of mind too!


tom

TSY

I was taught turn the heater on, leave the radiator cap off, and add coolant/water as needed. When the return hose to the radiator starts getting warm, put the cap on. Should clear out any air bubbles in the system. Worked for me last time I changed a radiator.

tom

azzuro

This thread is the reason I come here. Solid advice and no BS. I was considering the same stuff and I think the old advice applies here as well "The best mod is to upgrade the driver".

Highway8

iTrader: (11)

Brake fluid: the best fluid is clean fresh fluid, unless your on r comps, race pads and a heavy foot, you will never boil your fluid if its fresh.

Premix: I like idemitsu or royal purple. Just put .5oz per gallon before filling the tank with gas. It will mix just fine.

Gas tank: don't go out with under a half tank.

Sway bars: I would recommend middle on the front, soft in the rear. It will give you a little understand which is a safer way to start. They are easy to adjust, so you can try different things.

Alignment: run a little more neg front camber then rear. 0 front toe and 1/16 rear toe in works well. Again, easy to change at the track.

Tire pressures: every tire is different, either check tire temps hot or look at the wear line on the tire tread edge to determine tire pressures. Play with tire pressures to tune the handling.

Wheel lug nuts: retorque lug nuts when hot.

Oil: top off and check several times.

Temps: should have a real coolant temp gauge or obd2 reader to monitor temp. Dash gauge is useless.

Bl1nD_RX

Bring extra fluids. lots of extra oil is good to have because you will most likely use a more than normal amount while driving hard.
let your brakes cool between sessions because you can do serious damage.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

And, DO NOT USE YOUR E-BRAKE AFTER COMING OFF THE TRACK unless you want to glue your pads to your rotors.

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Best tip, ever.

Highway8

iTrader: (11)

+1 don't use brake.

I take tire chalks.

I pull into the hot pits after a hot lap to check tire temps and pressure, then drive in the attack for a few minutes to cool down.

darnellm

iTrader: (1)

Don't think that is advisable to retorque wheels when hot.
Wait until they cool down first.