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Wedssport frustrates me to no end. Those 17x10.5s are a good size, but they weigh 20 lbs in that style. i don’t get why they can’t offer the same size in the TC105X. The largest 17” there is 9.5” +45 and weighs 16.5 lbs.
SSR supposedly made the Type C-RS in an 17x10.5 +45 size that weighed 17.6 lbs. , but I’ve never been able to find even one. Seems to be vaporware. even finding the 18x10.5 +43 Type C and Type H is very difficult. Managed to get one set though, but not at a bargain.
I don’t think anyone realizes how many hours my RX8 has spent in competition mode.
So much heal & toe time that I “healed” my way through the carpet and under-foam all the way down to the floorboard. Kind of kept my heal planted well though.
Decided to finally address this by filling the hole with a section of OE carpet/foam and then throw something a bit more wear resistant on top. I’ll probably position a bit different in the final configuration to instead go fully across the full width with a cut out around the dead pedal. I can already hear somebody squawking about legality blah-blah-blah despite adding weight.
This happened to me in my car too after 4 years of autoX. I cut out the damaged carpet and glued in a matching piece of my un-used floor mat. It held for a year but the glue released recently. I like the diamond plate you planning for.
Well that’s why I didn’t use plain sheet. Diamond plate isn’t so bad while the thin stuff I bought is both light and rigid, but a little epoxy topped with sand will correct the situation if it proves to be an issue.
I’ve run in rain as much as anyone and maybe you’re overthinking it. There’s a dead-pedal for my left foot and my right heal is only resting on top. Which I’m also strapped into a high-bolster race seat. Not really the same thing as maneuvering or jumping around trying to stay balanced with your whole body weight. Which you can do whatever you want in your own car, but this is mine. Will add a rubber trim edge to keep it from tearing through the carpet. Also want it to be easily removable. So I could just yank it out if your nightmare scenario reigns down on me, lol.
Which for anyone else who wants to do something similar, there’s a gap under the dead-pedal so unless what you have is fairly thick it doesn’t need that corner cut-out. Mine is 15.75” across x 12” deep. Thought about it being deeper to extend further back, but wasn’t really needed. You probably could use a 1/8” thick piece of birch plywood if the your mother is worried sick about it being too slippery ...
I wonder why there is a discrepancy between what the supplier told me through email (25 lbs) and that forum post? I certainly hope there is not that much room for error in the manufacturing process. Maybe the guy I was talking to was weighing it in the box then? Doesn't really matter I guess, anything over 20 would have been too heavy anyhow.
or maybe who you were in contact with gave you the boxed shipping weight. Not so unusual for that to happen. Because they likely don’t know much about car stuff, which is also not so unusual.
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I wonder why there is a discrepancy between what the supplier told me through email (25 lbs) and that forum post? I certainly hope there is not that much room for error in the manufacturing process. Maybe the guy I was talking to was weighing it in the box then? Doesn't really matter I guess, anything over 20 would have been too heavy anyhow.
If you're open to 18's, Forgestar is doing their $200 off a set promotion for a few weeks. They do have a 17x10, but I am not familiar with their 17" weights. my 18x10's came in at 20.x for the $$$ and the custom offset range, I've been happy. Did other than forgestars for the 18x11's just because of the deal i got, and not wanting to wait for this promotion.
They’re heavy because just like the other wheels he was looking at the target vehicle for that offset range is a 3500 lbs Mustang. Lighter and cheaper have been posted for 17x10. The F14 10” wheel will be low-mid 19 lbs and their 10.5” wheel is about the same weight as the Wedssport SA-72R if not heavier.
they used to make a lighter 10” in the upper 17# range, but I think it was discontinued. I know someone on the S2000 forum had a set that the spokes were cracking/breaking several years ago.
Mostly just a lot of mundane detail work recently. Still lagging behind on finishing out the radiator shrouding and oil cooler lines.
I ended up sending the rear MCS shocks back for a slight adjustment last week and they knocked it right out for me with them showing delivery today. Great service so far from Brian at Karcepts and Trever at MCS. Which the rears are a custom inverted configuration built to my specs and the protrusion of their gas bolt design is a bit of a challenge up inside the shock hat. Should get them all mocked up this weekend and figure out what to use for tender springs so I can get those ordered.
Well good luck to everyone at Nationals. Hoping an RX8 will take the win, but there are some strong BMWs/drivers to contend with.
I've been looking at flywheel/clutch combinations. Several of you have mentioned a Tillton arrangement. For my personal situation at local events I won't be bringing the car on a trailer. I'm thinking I should go for a clutch that is too small so that I don't wear it out prematurely driving it on the street to and from events? I could still eliminate a bunch of weight from the flywheel but I am not sure what direction to head on the clutch. I don't have personal experience to go off of. Any advice?
You could try talking to RPS and see if they could come up with something. It will never get near a 5.5” or 7.25” for weight/inertia, but should be better than an OE type clutch with Lwt OE type flywheel.
Well it’s just a stud at the body end on top and heim bearing on the bottom at the shaft end. It looks pretty much the same as the picture below, except for the stud on the body end rather than the heim bearing. I welded a 5/8 com-10 spherical cup to the top of the OE hat and the stud bolts on there with heim adapter; a trick I got from Speedsource. So you can see the adjuster there at what is the bottom shaft end, which is easy to adjust reaching under the back end. What you can’t see is another small **** that sticks out the side. Turning it moves the large adjuster **** in either the upper or lower position. One position allows rebound adjustment and the other position is for bump/compression. It’s new to me and I can’t recall which position is which adjustment at the moment, and it’s also upside down/opposite compared to the front too.
Which again, this was made to my spec and I might suggest caution before rushing out to place an order. MCS didn’t quite agree, or at least questioned it, but it was more them not really understanding my own familiarity with the RX8 long hat and how I have it setup. It seems like they’re more familiar with the shorter NC stuff. I was under the impression they might being using the same on both chassis in the standard configuration but am not sure. I know people are using NC setups on the RX8t, but it still makes no sense to me. For sure doing that with the long RX8 hat would take away a lot of extension and give too much up travel. Beyond a certain vertical travel point the camber gain goes hyper crazy. When I see pics with the rear wheel off the ground then the first thing I’m thinking is they’re running an NC setup. The RX8 has quite a bit longer wheelbase and more weight than an equivalent NC. So in cross-pitch cornering situations it’s shock length requirement is a bit different imo.
Which I’m only about to head out there to start messing with it now. been burning the candle at both ends the last several months and am starting to feel the burn some lately ...
Yeah, like everything else so far, this is going to be another challenge. Looks like the easiest solution is to cut off the OE shock hat down at the larger diameter lower end and replace the upper tapered body end with a straight section. I didn’t really want to go there, but it is what it is.
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Yeah, a fixed perch is at the “bottom” end of the shaft and the threaded adjustment perch is on the body end. They’re just not installed in that picture. That’s the setup I’ve had forever on the inverted Koni shocks.
There are several alternatives to solve this problem though and I need to think it through some more.
Yeah, a fixed perch is at the “bottom” end of the shaft and the threaded adjustment perch is on the body end. They’re just not installed in that picture. That’s the setup I’ve had forever on the inverted Koni shocks.
There are several alternatives to solve this problem though and I need to think it through some more.
So the rear wouldn't use the top hat or body as a brace for the springs. That's good though, less side loading on the rear shocks.
even finding the 18x10.5 +43 Type C and Type H is very difficult. Managed to get one set though, but not at a bargain.
