i've checked all fuses. none are blown. i drove the ms3 all day yday. =) the future wife had the rx8 all day yday.

why would i have too much carbon? i only have 12k miles on my car. had the car for a year and 4 months. =(

also, i didn't know fuses would lower my cars performance. will research into this. kind of scares me... haha ill check all the fuses again.

 

Hey razz I don't understand your comment. Are you saying to check for a burnt fuse or pull the fuse out and then dyno? Well searched and came up with nothing. =\

 

i think it is the room fuse you need to pull.... it was on the racing beat site, but i am to tired to find it now...

good luck..

beers

 

ok thats all i need to know. thanks swoope!

 

wait, did you say you have the MazSport type 1 kit and only did 208-rwhp on 12-psi??!!!

 

whoa, that does seem awfully low now that chicken mentions it...

 

Nononono. My 07 mazdaspeed3 did 208whp. Hahah scott would kill me if I only put down 208 with his kit.

So I researched on pulling out the room fuse. It said they removed the knock sensor as well. I was confused so I called rb. The guy said pulling the fuse without removing the front 02 will not make any difference.... any suggestions guys?

 

Oh, okay! I was worried there. Good to hear.

 

guys how many coil need for replacement?

 

I need four so you can go ahead and pick up eight. Much appreciated.

 

Dynos are devices designed to measure torque. With torque and RPM you can get horsepower. In order to measure torque you need some way of applying a known resistance to the motor. So there's many kinds of dynos:

Water brake (Land and Sea)
Eddy Current (Dyno Dyanmics, Mustang)
Interia (DynoJet)

There's a lot more, I don't remember off the top of my head.

Water brake and Eddy current can both take direct measurements of the torque.

Inertia dynos can't. They're basically only good at WOT to read your HP. I don't believe it measures torque at all, it just measures how quickly your car can accelerate the big drum of known inertia. It measures the rate at which your car can put energy into rotating the drum. Basically what I'm saying is dynojet sucks. But then again, there's many other factors that can cause problems.

IMO any dyno shop can only be 100% trusted to do run to run comparisons. I'm willing to bet most of them are pretty much dead on giving you peak HP numbers as well. The only people with true accurate and calibrated dynos are the US car companies with their SAE certified dynos.

Gearboxes and drivetrains are no where close to as inefficient as car manufacturers want you to believe. There isn't a 20+ % loss in your drivetrain, if there was, there would be a great effort to run slicker oil and coolers through all your drivetrain components. Can you imagine the gas mileage to be gained with almost no research to do? Can you imagine a dry sump transmission? Not having to turn your gears through a pool of oil? Sounds nice doens't it?

Well I better stop, I'm veering off topic.

 

damn that sucks dude. i wish you luck. i ran 200

 

I would gladly volunteer only if it's free

Where in Garden Grove do you live? I just moved two weeks ago and now I live in Garden Grove as well

 

Peter, you ran a 200 on a dynamics? What's the condition of your car? New plugs, wires, coils, etc?

Se3p, I live on trask and brookhurst, you? I don't drive my car anymore. Its been sitting there for the last month. I either drive my work truck or my bike now. I'm still waiting to get my car fixed.

 

I did some research on compression testing and came up with this.

Remove the egi fuse while doing it. If its a piston compression gauge hold the valve half way open with it in the trailing or top spark plug hole. Examine the gauge as a friend cranks the engine over three time. If its above 90psi total then the engines still good.

 

you need to do more research if you think that's all there is to it ...

 

Grrr!! Haha. Thanks team. Will do more researching.

 

try reading the service manual for starts, effective compression is RPM dependent, the chamber pressure alone is not sufficient

 

I've read somewhere the rpm when cranking should be at 250-350rpms?

Too many people say to test with the vavle completely closed and others say half or all the way open. Mazda test with a digital gauges. A lot of confusing data on how to compression test. Really annoying... personally, as for I am still new to rotories.

 

did a quick dyno run yday. same dyno, with rb race plug wires i was getting 177 constant. i still havent gotten new coils yet. 177 on a dynamic is still pretty low to me. i got a 174 when i pulled out the room fuse.

 

compression is a function of RPM, there's a chart in the service manual the shows the compression reading vs rpm chart (and is posted on the forum in several places), so you need both numbers to determine the condition of the engine

 

Oh, ok I will check into that. Thanks team. Also before I try to post up my dyno chart tonight. Would anyone happen to know why there's such a big dip in power at 5k rpm? Normally 5k is where our renesis engine starts to come alive... right? =\

 

I took off the intake box today and to my suprise the mesh screen is gone.... =\. Thinking tomyself how and when? I would guess it happened when I was using nitrous back then. My question is where would the screen go? Could it have been sucks through the throttle and into the rotors?

 

I took off the intake box today and to my suprise the mesh screen is gone.... =\. Thinking tomyself how and when? I would guess it happened when I was using nitrous back then. My question is where would the screen go? Could it have been sucks through the throttle and into the rotors?

 

sorry - nowhere else for it to go