Mr. Pockets

Hey everybody,

I ordered 3.25" ARP wheel studs from Mazdaspeed awhile ago. They're ARP PN 100-7713. Has anybody installed them on the front hubs? The splines don't match, and Mazdaspeed's answer is, 'yeah, just jam 'em in there.' They claim the studs are designed to just push their way in there.

That makes me a little nervous. I like stuff to fit together nicely and not require hydraulic pressure to force their way in.

John V

iTrader: (1)

I've always used a hydraulic press to push in wheel studs, including the long ARPs on both ends of my RX-8.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

Yeah... wheel studs typically need to be pressed in, and out.

GeicoGecko

Agreed, on any car I've ever worked on you have to press in/out the wheel studs. Can be intimidating at first but once you do it a few times it's easy. HarborFreight has a great press that comes in handy for everything from wheel studs, bushings, wheel bearings oh and making a tombstone for a Miata (turns out the base platform width is identical to the tombstone mounting width!)

Mr. Pockets

Thank you for your responses. I'm well aware that studs are pressed in.

What concerns me is that the splines on the studs don't match the splines in the holes on the hubs. To me it's like cross-threading a nut on purpose.

roflcopter

iTrader: (2)

If they had the same splines as the old ones then the press fit wouldn't be very tight because the hole is already expanded a bit to fit the previous ones. I wouldn't worry about the splines being different.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I had the correctly sized ARP studs posted on the forum already, ARP #100-7719 for both front & rear which is listed for the NB Miata. These are only 2.75” OAL if that matters.

and no, they won’t be a looser fit, just easier to get in if you don’t have a real press ...

fwiw it’s the same ARP stud for the rear too


.

Mr. Pockets

The ones I posted about originally seem to be working just fine.

Also, I bought a press finally.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Reminds of that scene from Avatar ...

trackjunkie

worked fine until the one lug nut decided to seize itself onto the stud and then the stud backed out in the back. too soon?

trackjunkie

the part number that Mark posted is what i used. worked out great.

Mr. Pockets

This thread is about the front studs, not the rear.

And I would blame the lug nuts, not the studs. I switched to 949 aluminum nuts, and they've been a big improvement.

trackjunkie

you're brave running aluminum lug nuts. i've seen aluminum lug nuts completely rip off the studs on two different cars. i guess they're fine if you replace them often.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Forged should be fine, but it might depend what brand is used and how effectively they get torqued. I’ve seen cars with ferrous lugs lose wheels too.

trackjunkie

the Project Kics lug nuts on my car now are over 10 years old. ran them on my S2k for three years, then sold the car and swap them over to the evo for 7 years. then sold the evo and swap them over to the RX8. best lug nuts i've ever used, i mean the only lug nuts i have used. lol

i cant count how many times they have been torqued but typical race weekend, wheels are swapped or rotated at least 2-3 times. i use a little anti seize and torque them lower, same seat pressure with anti seize.

Mr. Pockets

You had an S2000...and then an RX8?

What...what would you say is wrong with you?