Koni Sport Shock Install Q&A
 

Seeing that I'm bent on making to the National Tours and ProSolos this year, I have a set of Koni Yellow unwittingly sitting in the parcel box still since I have never done shocks in my life. Thanks to Phil at DPE for your darn special buy that made me weak and got onto the Koni bandwagon. :banghead: :puke:

I researched on the board and found a few pertinent threads on the subject of install, though no complete DIY as far as I can tell. The available ones are:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/koni-sports-tein-hs-installed-77349/ olddragger
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-25/koni-shock-install-78328/ whiterex
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/koni-shocks-60580/ TheDosDog

Based on those posts, it looks like the instruction provided by Koni is inadequate. Additionally, some modifications will be required in terms of bump stop and spacer. I would like to get the following questions addressed prior to undertaking the install job. Your help is much appreciated!

1)Given my lack of shock install experience, would you still recommend me trying, say with helpers/buddies and drill/power tool?

2)I have access to the specific pages on Workshop CD, though how accurate/helpful is it in your opinion?

3)ULLLOSE mentioned that the job is doable without an alignment afterwards. Is it possible to explain how in terms of what not to take apart?

4)Any specific tips/guidelines/watch-outs for shock DIY?

5)Between Tanabe/stock front bar, which one should I pair the Koni with and at what settings front/rear? I purposely saved the stock knowing a day like this would come! Feel free to PM me on this one since the shock settings may be considered as a trade secret. I realize that attending Dial-In as offered by Evo School is the way to go, but I would like to get the baseline set-up and just concentrate on driving for this year.

Thanks for any help/insight!

A friend to help with the install would be a good thing to have, especially if you
haven't done one before.

Here are some instructions I wrote up after I did my swap. I found a posting in
this BB about installing some Tien springs that I used as a guide. Search in the DIY
section for it.

### Front Springs ###

Tools needed:
12, 14, 17, 19, 24(15/16) mm sockets
6 mm Allen wrench
14, 17, 19 mm wrenches
12 mm drill bit & drill
Torque Wrench
Spring compressors
Jack Stands
Floor jack


1) Jackup the front of the car, I slide the jack under the front cross brace
and jacked up there, install jackstands to secure the car

2) Remove front wheels

3) Pop the hood, and remove the engine cover

4) Remove the strut tower bar (2x12mm on each side)

5) On the lower control arm remove the 17mm bolt that holds the base of
the strut on

7) Remove the two upper control arm 14mm bolts

8) Remove the 3 upper hat 14mm nuts, after this the strut assembly should
drop down a bit and you should be able to angle it out (top first) by moving
the control arms it out and remove it from the car,

9) Use a spring compressor while undoing the struts

10) Take note before you dis-assemble the strut of the relationship between
the studs on the top plate and the bottom of the strut. Also note the
location of the rubber pad between the springs and top plate. Makes it much
easier to line up the strut when re-installing it...

The shop manual gives a diagram for re-positioning the strut hat with
a range of degrees from the bottom bolt hole to holes in the hat. look it up.

On second thought, use some paint and mark the top plate and the spring
before you dis-assemble the strut. Then you don't have to guess where to
align everything up...

10) Carefully undo the 17mm at the top of the strut assembly, the assembly
will pop apart when it comes off so be careful and remember to gather up all
of the pieces if they fly out.

11) You will need to drill out the hole in the stock bump stop cap to 12mm.

12) Reassemble the front strut using the new parts and old parts;

Basic order is: nut, washer, donut, strut hat, rubber pad, gold sleeve,
bottom donut (has a lip that faces up), bumpstop, spring, plastic washer, strut

Torque top nut to 37 ft/lb.

13) The reinstallation is the opposite of the removal, first slide the strut
assembly back through the upper control arm and under the fender

14) Screw on the 3 14mm bolts for the upper hat, torque to 34-46 ft/lb.

15) Reinstall the 17mm bolt through the base of the strut, torque 65-87 ft/lb

16) Screw in the 2 14mm upper control arm bolts but do not tighten them
all the way.

If you tighten them now when you rest the car down the front will be
excessively high and the rear will look squatted like in a weight transfer,
dont ask me how I know this

17) After both sides are complete reinstall the strut tower bar 2x12mm on
each side (TQ 20 ft/lb), and reinstall the engine cover

18) Reinstall the wheels

19) Lower the car down and let the car settle on the front suspension,
I took a quick drive around the block

20) Rotate the wheels so you can tighten the upper control arm bolts.
torque to 65 ft/lbs.

21) Enjoy your new springs

Instructions for the rear springs...

### Rear Springs ###

Tools needed:
12, 14, 17, 19, 24(15/16) mm sockets
5 mm Allen wrench
14, 17, 19 mm wrenches
Torque Wrench
Spring compressors
Jack Stands
Floor jack


1) Jack up the rear of the car, i jacked under the rear diff and placed
jackstands under each side of the rear to secure it

2) Remove the wheels

3) Under the car mark the lower control arm alignment bolt so you can return
it to the same setting, mark the front and back of the bolt (bolt and nut side)

4) For driver's side, remove the 10mm nut that holds the lever to the
headlight adjustment control

Note: Not needed on all RX-8s as my car did not have the self-leveling lever...

5) Undo the 14mm nut to the swaybar link and swivel the link out of the way

6) Remove the 19mm alignment bolt for the control arm

7) Wiggle the control arm until it drops out of its bracket

8) Undo the 17mm bolt at the bottom of the strut.

9) Remove the 12mm bolt near the top of the strut where the strut goes into
the trunk area

10) Pop the trunk and undo the tabs holding the side carpet, pull the carpet
back to expose where the strut is

If you have the spare tire kit, remove it first.

11) remove the 2 14mm at the base of the strut and the 2 14mm bolts into
the gold bracket and remove the 2 14mm nuts and pull the bracket off

12) You can now pull the strut out; if it seems to get caught on the
suspension you can try rotating it like a screw until it becomes free.
Or push the bottom of the shock toward the center of the car.

13) Use a spring compressor when dis-assembling the struts

NOTE: Carefully note the orientation of the strut hat on the assembly
as you have a very small margin of error when re-assembling the mess...

On second thought, use some paint and mark the top plate and the spring
before you dis-assemble the strut. Then you don't have to guess where to
align everything up...

14) Carefully undo the 17mm at the top of the strut assembly, the
assembly will pop apart when it comes off so be careful and remember
to gather up all of the pieces if they fly out.

15) Reassemble the rear strut on the new shocks, re-using everything
but the top nut that is replaced by the nut Koni provides.

Basic order is: nut, washer, donut, strut hat, gold sleeve, bottom donut
(has a lip that faces up), bumpstop, spring, plastic ring, strut

Torque the top nut to 37 ft/lb.

The shop manual gives a diagram for re-positioning the strut hat with
a range of degrees from the bottom bolt hole to holes in the hat. look it up.

16) The reinstallation is the opposite of the removal.
Loosely screw in the 2 14mm nuts from the top to hold the strut in place
for the next step.

17) Slide the bottom of the shock on to the hub assembly. I had to use a
floor jack to help compress the shock. Torque the bolt to 65-87 ft/lb.

18) Torque down the 2 14mm nuts from the top (TQ 34-46 ft/lb)
and then the 12mm from the bottom (TQ 18-24 ft/lb).

19) Reinstall the gold bracket and its 2 14mm nuts (TQ 28-38 ft/lb)
and 2 14mm bolts (TQ 28-38 ft/lb)

20) Reinstall the side carpeting

21) Reinstall the control arm in its bracket and slide the alignment bolt back
in place, tighten this back down to where your original alignment marks were
(TQ 87-101 ft/lb)

22) Reinstall the swaybar link and tighten its 14mm nut (TQ 32-44 ft/lb)

23) If driver's side, reinstall the arm to the headlight level control
and secure with its 10mm nut (TQ 15 ft/lb???)

24) Reinstall the rear wheels, remove jackstands and jack.

- Give it a try yourself. Its waaay cheaper that way. With what edj hooked you up with, should be no problem.

- If you plan on going to all of these national events, you will want a nice aggressive alignment anyway.

- I could care less if anyone knows my setup or runs it. It all comes down to driving the course.

Rear - Full Stiff
Front - 50/50
sway bar - MS(not mazdaspeed) front sway on softest setting
Alignment
Camber - -1deg on front/-1.5deg rear
Toe - 1/8"total toe out in front - 1/8"total toe in rear
Castor - 6deg

At the national tour event at Ft. Myers, none of the RX8's had similiar setups. If you really think that setup is the key, pay no attention to mine, it was the slowest.

Thanks to edj and whiterex for chiming in. I digged out the spring install thread edj
was referring to, https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-lowering-springs-install-23403/. Let's hope my
car buddies really like me to get me thru the install.

What is MS if not MazdaSpeed? I know Whiteline makes an adjustable one, not
sure about MS.

As far as I'm concerned, all of you have a lot to offer/teach since I just started the sport
with one season of RX-8 experience. I'll be happy to have your result when my time comes.
Somehow, I have a feeling that I'll be settling in nicely with last place, running 70% worn SSR to the shred until picking up v710.

MS in this case is a prototype TeamRX8 bar. Until you pick up some more experience, just stay with the stock bar for now.

Nice work edj... The only thing I would add is that the only part I take off the rear is the endlink from the swaybar end, I don't take off any of the other suspension parts.

^^^ I find myself having to take off the rear cam bolts. But not having to remove anything but endlinks up front. :dunno:

NOTE - I installed springs on my wifes NC(miata) yesterday, the suspension is a lot more like an rx8 than the NA or NB.

Some people claim to take the upper control arms loose in the rear rather than the lower one, it didn't seem to make sense to me but I've never actually tried it that way myself

swaybars are supposedly being fabricated as we speak, but I'm reluctant to say a couple of more weeks for the hundredth time ...

I'm going to have a used set of standard Koni's completely assembled with OE springs and hardware FS soon, so they will be plug & play for someone who wants to run Stock class rules

Use this...

http://www.swankmonkey.com/mazda/rx8...rs/index3.html

For the front:
Just remove the upper arm...

For the rear:
Just remove the lower arm that connects to the camber bolt. When installing it back, one side went pretty smooth but the other side, I had to remove the upper arm so I can fit the coilover.

I just installed my shocks/springs a month ago and it was the first time as well... It was waaay easy... What took me the longest was the &%$#&% compressor tool that kept getting stuck.

Don't forget to torque the bolts ONLY when the suspension has settled and the car is on its wheels.

Good luck,
Carlos

I don't understand why everyone takes the rear arms off???? Pull the shock/spring down just enough to get at the top shock bolt and then you can remove the shock and leave the spring in place. No need to take the arms loose and lose you alignment settings. The rear spring a soft and short enough you don't need to compress them.

I put lowering springs on about a year ago, and put Koni's on last weekend. both times I removed the upper A arm from the car (not the hub) and in the rear I removed the cam bolt in the rear.
just thought I would throw in my .02


P.S. I also take note of the cam bolt and washer location, and install in the same place.
also both times I have planned on takign the car down for an alighnment anyways.
ULLOSE, taking the car down very soon for the new auto cross setup.

Different strokes for different folks...

There are many many ways of doing this. You just need to pick the one that is easier for you.

BTW,
I didn't remove the rear lower arm... I just unbolted the camber bolt and rotated the arm outwards so I have space for the coilover to be removed.

My 2 cents,
Carlos

Yeah... I like to do it without taking the rear arms off so if I am at the track and want to adjust the shocks I don't have to worry about screwing up the alignment. Set a new record for myself, adjusted boths rears in an hour. :icon_no2:

In an effort to resurrect this old thread, here is what went down:

Put on the REAR ones only, since it took ~5hrs for the very first one, and only 1hr for the
other. A big shout-out to bxb40 for being the wonderful helper who brought over his gf to
watch our misery and giving tender massage when needed (to him only). :slap: :whipping:

Some observations (please correct/comment) since we were really clueless:

*For shock adjustment, we didn't have the vise depicted in the Koni instruction sheet
and the website adjustment page. So instead, we pushed the metal rod all the way in with
eyelet sitting on the floor. Then we turned the rod clockwise until no more, and dialed it
back one half turn (180dg). So the stiffness is set at 80% or so, since we counted 5.5
half turns instead of 5 for the entire range reported here.

*The order of strut parts assembly was different from what edj wrote. From top to bottom:
new Koni nut, gold metal plate, rubber, metal tube, rubber, gold bump-stop end plate, bump-stop
, and white plastic insert.

*Could not set the top thread of new shock the same length as OEM shock, meaning exposed
thread on top of the new nut in the truck. We used the combination of 5mm Allen hex wrench and
close-box wrench to tighten the nut, where it simply stopped turning at certain point. Not sure how
to torque it as suggested.

*Had to loosen rear sway bar and end-links in order to clear the allowable space. Did not touch
control arms so the alignment should not be affected. Used spring compressor on the car since
we figured the spring might expand after we loosened the top nut and the bottom 17mm mounting
bolt/washer.

*With just rear OTS-Koni on, the car transmits road irregularities much acutely. The rear goes
up and down (oscillates) over bumpy road instead of smooth and delayed motion. Solid thump over
potholes and cracks instead of clunking noise from before. Rear follows front instantaneously, no more
lagging sensation.

Thanks again for all the help. We will tackle the front this Sunday after autox school/competition.

it's 2.75 full turns, so your 5.5 half-turns is correct

you shouldn't really have to run them over 50% if you have the rear alignment set properly, though some hard-headed people disagree ...

next time take both end links loose and then rotate the swaybar completely out of the way, then drop the camber adjustment bolt out of the rear control arms and swing them completely out of the way. I know Ullloser doesn't like to do this because he's afraid he won't get the alignment back properly, but I can remove and reinstall both sides in 20 minutes this way, it gives you clear access to pull them in/out easily, IMO it's a lot easier to do off the car if you have a spring compressor, he uses the weight of the car as his compressor, two different ways to skin the same cat, or you could have the rear shocks converted to externally adjustable (adjustment tab at the top) and then you only have to unbolt the shock assy and let it drop to reach the adjuster with a knob then bolt it back up.

and we all know that there's only one way to set up the car "properly"...the bag-head way :worship: :puke:

lol, I'm not the one who's so hardheaded to not have tried it the other way :rolleyes: go ahead and ride around on the stiff setting full time, no skin off my back :)

:SHOCKED: :worship:

I think I need to move to a place where Natl RX-8 people live so I know WTF
I'm doing, on-and-off the car. On other positive note, I could only get better
from this point on after doing the install. The dealer quoted $800 for labor-alone
for the entire install :jerkit:

ps. Got Sticky Pod on the way as part of self-gratification/improvement. Will see
how good it is. Look out for videos soon!

watch it, buddy...I haven't tried the other way because I'm lazy ...my hardheadedness has little to do with it :p:

I guess I'll just have to suffer. :crying:

And here we have EVIDENCE that THE BUCKLEY is WINNING with a SUB-OPTIMAL SETUP!

That's why I knew he'd be so DOMINATE this season. Folks, he's simply THAT GOOD. Baghead knew it, or he wouldn't have run off to STU!


#1 Buckley-Fan

how about sub-optimal competition; the people he's run against either are inexperienced or had issues, it's not like he's thumping Strano's MR2, that said the word is he drove really well at the WR Pro, if that's the case then I'm happy for his success. Apparently this year's sub-optimal setup is better than last years. FWIW, I actually have at least three Pro Solo events planned driving other RX-8s, he'll get his chance to pulverize me soon enough.

since you're his #1 Fan maybe you should let him show SS how to bring the win home ...

Hahaha...now who is "chumming for a rise". :)

I'm just messing with you, Mark. Obviously a little birdy finally filled you in on who I am. Oh well, it was a fun run for Buckley-Fan.

Should be fun watching you guys in Peru.


#1 Buckley-Fan signing off

LOL, looks like I got #1B-F's goat ... :p:

Yeah, mine must have been set up wrong last year. I mean, I read it on the innernet, it's gotta be twue.

--kC
(1/4 turn from full stiff)

I hope that your wife can help you with that...

it's not just the shock setting, it's the entire suspension setup

if you haven't tried it then you're not in any position to say one way or another which is better, closemindedness prevails once again ...

"Assume" - take to be the case or to be true; accept without verification or proof;

Example: For baghead to assume KC's post was being closeminded, baghead reinforced the belief that he's the closeminded one.

--kC
(I supplied a datapoint. I made no statement whether mine is the best setup.)

well I've never fully stated my setup so it's an assumption I feel comfortable with, I'm openmided enough to try anything including the unconventional, even the things I don't think will work, I don't just assume what worked on one car workson them all, I treat it as an individual exercise, all last year was nothing but one big test session for me, it was probably foolish not to have stuck it out in Stock one more year

and I've never said it was wrong, but rather that IMO it's unnecessary to run them that stiff and there negative tradeoffs associated with it besides ride quality if you do, which have all been argued previously

fwiw, the guy I sold a set of used Konis too recently found the every-day ride quality too stiff with the rears at 50% so I agreed to reimburse him and take them back.

But because someone hasn't done something you haven't doesn't automatically make them CLOSEMINDED. Comprende?

You constantly degrade those of us (ie: foolish, closeminded, etc...) who *CHOOSE* what we do/don't do differently than you.

Yet, when someone does one thing that remotely similar to something you have done, it's one of two scenarios...
"But I did it 1st so it's gotta be good."
"How original :rolleyes: keep in mind, I did it 1st. You're just copying me."

As far as every day ride quality being too harsh... harshness in the ass is personal preference. Not a 'fact' that can be used for reasoning/argument on performance.

So again, stop with the attacks because people chose to do what they did that happens to be different than yourself.... and go pat yourself some more on the back if you think you have all the secrets, answers on how to go fast. Keep believing that.

--kC

I was referring to your attitude, not your lack of action :dunno:

but I can't believe I let myself get back into this stupid argument again, signing off ..

One trend I've observed is at the stiffer the rear shock settings, more rear camber is required to compensate, which then creates wheelspin issues.

Best compromise I've found so far is 3/4 stiff (1 1/2 turns) and minimum camber in the rear. Car is very tossable and the only place I've hit the stops was the high speed transitions at Ft. Myers. On asphalt it's ideal.

So much drama and the front ones are not even on the car yet...

Anyway, I'll stir the pot by saying that the rear at 82% (non-linear since shock dyno graph
is never liner) is definitely not street-friendly, but still ok driving-wise. The car was never a
plush ride to begin with, so I'm fine with the sacrifice for the sake of better handling/autox
time.

A follow-up Q:

For the front where you drill out stock bumpstop cap to 12mm, the closest drill bit size
I could find is 15/32 in SAE, no metric available at Lowes. So it's 11.9mm to be exact.
Is this fine or I should get the next one up, 31/64 = 12.3mm.

Its fine.
And I only run the rears at 1/2 turn up from full soft. I run Road Atlanta and Roebling tracks and I must say the koni's where a BIG improvement. High speed Trail brake without the rear end getting happy now. No problems with lost of traction exiting a turn.
I have the tein h springs, RB bars and the koni sports.
I also run the front at 1-2 turns from full soft.
olddragger

Sweet autocrossing God! The front Koni is in now. bxb40, you are my hero and life savior! Couldn't have pulled the shock install job off without you. If I ever make to the National, you will always have a co-drive waiting for you.

A few observations after both the front & rear:

*A pair of spring compressors is not recommended, but required to get the strut assembly out in the front, and the shocks sans springs out in the back. In the case of front, two may be needed on each side since using one will dis-figure the spring shape as you try to manipulate it back to the top mounting plate. The front spring is longer/stiffer than the rear.

*We had to take out upper control arms bolts (17mm) so the brake assembly/lower control arm will drop down to gain the extra clearance. The clearance is needed to wiggle the bottom fork of the shock outward. This is in addition to top endlink nut to swing the endlink out of the way.

*Be sure to loose the top nut on the old front strut before taking it off. It's much easier doing that than having the whole top rubber piece fighting you every step of the way.

*Getting the fork perfectly aligned with the lower control arm eyelet is not an easy task. That's where we spent the most amount of time, as we held on/angle upper control arm, brake assembly, and lower control arm to put the bottom bolt back.

*19mm deep socket is necessary to torque the new top nut on the front. The adjustment lever extends up high preventing regular depth socket to work.

Now my question, is there something better and easier to work with than the star-pattern metal adjuster Koni provides with the strut tower blocking the full access?

Not really, just put the center slot over the adjuster and use a screwdriver in the open slots to turn it. It's really easy that way. (Sure, it would be easier with an adjustmnet knob if there were clearance...) :)

--kC

I got my Koni Sports today and plan to put them in this weekend.

I read this whole thread and I know that many say 1/2 rear is all you need while others prefer 3/4 rear.

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to going 3/4 stiff over 1/2 - performance wise? Is a harsher ride the only trade-off in going 3/4 or can other things "bad" happen like oversteer?

In short - how stiff should I set the rears when I install them? I want a good autocross setup that will be decent for daily driving. I'm leaning towards 3/4 stiff. Will I regret it?

I've never done this before so - thanks in advance for any experienced and/or expert advice.

I have mine on full stiff in the rear. I found it pretty difficult to achieve a lot of oversteer. A "little" oversteer isn't really a bad thing, just depends on personal preference. The ride isn't too bad, but again its what you want. I adjusted mine about 4 times before I was satisfied.

As of now, I have serious understeer. I guess I can attribute much of that to having put S.Techs on the front and not on the back yet (plan to tomorrow).

I really wouldn't mind a touch of oversteer as it would be a refreshing change from all the plowing I'm doing right now. Ideally, I want balance but I guess that will take time to find.

I guess I'll start at 3/4 and go from there.

With my current setup, full stiff in the rear, 50/50 in front, teamrx8 front sway, and 710's, the car is VERY nuetral. I would suggest trying a bunch of different setups until you find what suits all of your needs the best. My setup is best for me, I'm sure that yours and many others are different. Finding a good setup is really half the fun. I have not really seen a lot of 8's with the same setup. Good luck.

Konis and S.Techs.

Got one of the rears on. Took about 1:50 to do it. Aren't they purdy?

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=76096

You'll notice the sway bar still detached. I couldn't get the swaybar link nut to come off. It was stuck on so god it was stripping so I just undid the sway and droped it down. That worked just as well as it still allowed the lower control arm to drop out of the way. Aligning up the lower control arm alignment bolt wasn't that bad since I had it marked.

I went the full three turns then back 1/2 turn. So we'll see what that's like.

I'll bet I can do the other side in one hour flat.. let's see..

Ok what was your time?

I did mine in three hours, going to do it again when my mazdaspeed spring come. I think I could do it in two hours. that is with hoist, and air tools

Thanks to all for their inputs to this thread.

I did the install of my Konis today, total time about 4 hours with a couple of soda breaks (hey, it was almost 70 degrees out on this January day, had to kick it in the sun a little!). The job was made much easier because my friend Rob was nice enough to let me use his garage...actually it's more of a race shop than garage, 6500 sq ft with plumbed air, lift, all tools imagineable, welding equiptment, lathe etc etc...definitely made it easier!

Marking the relationship of the hats. to the rubber insulators, to the springs with a paint pen made lining things up a no brainer and saved time. I did unbolt the lower control arm on the rears...after messing around with the first side for awhile, I just decided that it was going to be much faster and easier to just unbolt and give myself some room to manuever. I already had the eccentrics marked and I'm planning on playing around with with the rear camber settings, anyhow, so there wasn't really any downside in pulling the arms.

The ride is better than I thought it would be, or else I don't have the shocks set where I think I do...full clockwise rotation, until the stop, of the rear shock bodies is full stiff, right? And the fronts adjust to full stiff through turning the slotted tool counter clockwise, it appears? Does that make sense? Bueller? Bueller?

Anyhow, it really is a simple job and I can see where, next time, it won't take too long. BTW, Jason/ULLLOSE, how do you adjust the rears in an hour?

whats the difference between adjusting the shock with the yellow flat thing (wow) and spinning the shock when its fully compressed?



EDIT: holy god I'm stupid .... i was sitting there with the front shocks in the vice... wow.

be advised.. the front shocks are stiffened by rotating the adjustment tool COUNTER-clockwise, and loosened by going clockwise. Oposite of what I thought but if you check the yellow paper that came with the konis or check the + - arrows on one side of the adjustment tool you'll see.

Front 8241 1226 Sport (CW = softer, CCW = firmer)
Rear 8240 1227 Sport (CW = firmer, CCW = softer)

mwood was right on all counts (f/r). you guys are saying the same thing.

the only reason the rotation appears opposite is because you're rotating the opposite end of the shock/shaft, it's all relative ....

Hey guys, I got my mechanic to install my used koni's but they said that I have some missing parts. I'm not sure which part I am missing and also have no instructions to which part to reuse from the old shock and which parts I need new. All that was given was the shock with:

- top nut
- white plastic
(Referring to front shock)

Would somebody have a copy of the instructions they could possibly scan for me. If so my emails tuan0011@aapt.net.au or just post up here for other users in the future perhaps.

Any help would be appreciated.