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I want to stay in B-stock, but I want lowered right height

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Old 11-09-2007, 12:12 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mwood
The reason I get a little more camber is because of my sponsor, Custom Alignment of Mt. View (ask for Joe Silva, owner), and the great techs they have working on all the race cars.
Yeah I can see how that works.... Silva to the tech.... "this guy will whine so just tell him you got -2 so the cheap bastard will go away".

The bad part is alignment racks are like dynos, they are all off a little, so I expect none of us will every have the same stuff. Guess if you were smart you would use my alignment shop. I hope they are still in business, I have not been there in over two years.
Old 11-09-2007, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
Yeah I can see how that works.... Silva to the tech.... "this guy will whine so just tell him you got -2 so the cheap bastard will go away".

The bad part is alignment racks are like dynos, they are all off a little, so I expect none of us will every have the same stuff. Guess if you were smart you would use my alignment shop. I hope they are still in business, I have not been there in over two years.
Actually, I work on the car with him, so I get to mess around with the values to my heart's content...

I agree, though, alignment racks vary, even the same rack over the course of time. It's also nice that the '8 seems to really hold an alignment, unlike the Z06
Old 11-09-2007, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mwood
Actually, I work on the car with him, so I get to mess around with the values to my heart's content...

I agree, though, alignment racks vary, even the same rack over the course of time. It's also nice that the '8 seems to really hold an alignment, unlike the Z06
Yeah small tires, light weight and not enough power to make anything move. On the way to Wendover in 2006, drove the car there all loaded up, one of my rears moved a bit. Not sure if it was one of the cattle grates or the road into the site, but I have everything marked so I was able to move it back on site.

Last edited by ULLLOSE; 11-09-2007 at 12:34 PM.
Old 11-09-2007, 12:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mwood
Actually, it's probably more due to inter car variance, as I know of other '8s at Nationals that had more camber than mine. Also, which is more important running the V710, an extra .1-.2 negative camber or 1/8" additional lower ride height? Anyone want to do the math to determine what 1/8" means to cg and roll centers?
Mike,

If you don't mind me asking, how much -ve camber do you run front & rear?

Things are looking promising (especially if the mini moves to DS) for me to trade in my WRX for a new RX-8. If this happens, there's a good chance that I'll have a season long co-driver as well.

-Chike (hoping to join the BS party in Topkea in '08)

P.S. Btw, a friend of mine took the following pics at Nationals:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/frictio...7602114232681/

He has some of BSL in action on Page 2, and BS coming off the course on Page 3.
Old 11-09-2007, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by chiketkd
Mike,

P.S. Btw, a friend of mine took the following pics at Nationals:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/frictio...7602114232681/

He has some of BSL in action on Page 2, and BS coming off the course on Page 3.
Oh, he caught a shot of my top secret ram-air hood mod. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2183/...f1a20a.jpg?v=0
Old 11-09-2007, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
Oh, he caught a shot of my top secret ram-air hood mod. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2183/...f1a20a.jpg?v=0
I saw that!
Old 11-09-2007, 01:11 PM
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Man, my '8 was looking tight at Nationals...dig those fat boy Hoosiers

Old 11-09-2007, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by chiketkd

If you don't mind me asking, how much -ve camber do you run front & rear?

The car has -1.7f/-1.9r camber. A little (1/16-3/32") front toe out and zero rear toe.
Old 11-09-2007, 01:41 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by mwood
The car has -1.7f/-1.9r camber. A little (1/16-3/32") front toe out and zero rear toe.
Thanks Mike. On my awd WRX I also love to run 1/16" toe out per side up front (turn-in is quick).

Did you and Braun ever experiment with running less camber in the rear? With -1.9r camber, how much wheelspin did you have on corner exit? Did that much rear camber allow you to trailbrake into corners/sweepers?
Old 11-09-2007, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by chiketkd
Thanks Mike. On my awd WRX I also love to run 1/16" toe out per side up front (turn-in is quick).

Did you and Braun ever experiment with running less camber in the rear? With -1.9r camber, how much wheelspin did you have on corner exit? Did that much rear camber allow you to trailbrake into corners/sweepers?
No, we didn't change the rear camber setting, at all. I do have a -1.6 setting marked on the adjusters, but the car has been just fine as is, with good turn in under braking. The only thing the car has a problem with, on some surfaces, is off corner/throttle on push, but I don't think I want to tune around that issue, because there'd be too much of a trade off in other areas...but, that's just a guess. I'm no expert and haven't really played around with the set up enough to even make any blind axx guesses...

Last edited by mwood; 11-09-2007 at 04:32 PM.
Old 11-09-2007, 04:45 PM
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Thanks a million Mike!

-Chike
Old 11-09-2007, 09:01 PM
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There's always the old method of putting it on an alignment rack with turntables to allow free suspension movement, loosening any fastener that goes through a suspension bushing, settling the suspension as much as possible and retightening everything. I've read in the ancient past that can be good for a surprising amount of lowering. But you have to be able to reach all the fasteners with tools with wheels on the car. Could be kinda challenging. Never done this myself.
Old 11-09-2007, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SolarYellow510
There's always the old method of putting it on an alignment rack with turntables to allow free suspension movement, loosening any fastener that goes through a suspension bushing, settling the suspension as much as possible and retightening everything. I've read in the ancient past that can be good for a surprising amount of lowering. But you have to be able to reach all the fasteners with tools with wheels on the car. Could be kinda challenging. Never done this myself.
We did, basically, what you are talking about. Didn't see any pick up in camber, which we would have if the car had settled further on the suspension, I would think. We also tried loosening the subframe to equalize measures r/l, which had some positive effect.
Old 11-09-2007, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mwood
The only thing the car has a problem with, on some surfaces, is off corner/throttle on push, but I don't think I want to tune around that issue, because there'd be too much of a trade off in other areas...but, that's just a guess.
One last question - which FSB do you use on your 8? Stock, modified stock, MS or something else?
Old 11-10-2007, 10:25 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by clyde
The prototypes dropped mine by 10-11mm (forget which was front and which was back).


Yes a set of degassed double-adjustable Konis are good for around a 1/2" drop and Stock legal, but will set you back about $2200 total.
Old 11-10-2007, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by chiketkd
One last question - which FSB do you use on your 8? Stock, modified stock, MS or something else?
All of the above...well, except the MS. Right now, I have the stock bar with an extra hole drilled on each side, making it 3 way adjustable in a very narrow range
Old 11-10-2007, 03:26 PM
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Thanks again Mike.
Old 11-10-2007, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
Yeah I forgot about the AZ guys.... The ones who had to replace blown shocks at natls.

You should get some custom shocks... It was clear to me the only thing holding you back at natls was your OTS Konis.

The revalves were GREAT on really smooth asphalt. Not impressed so far with their performance on bumpy surfaces.

FWIW, the revalve didn't cause the failure, incorrect parts were used that they "thought" would work.
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