Front Camber is around around -2.4deg
Rear Camber is around -2.2 (couldn't get it lower) EDIT: By lower i mean closer to -1.5
and .06 toe all around.

Is that about right far as wear goes after only 7000 miles? is it worth having the tires demounted and flipped to the other sides?

 

you need to run zero toe to minimize this

toe + camber = major scrubbing wear on inside tire edge

 

would you say i have too much toe then? Or just should accept the exaggerated wear, for what I feel like is excellent turn ins and exits right where they should be, but then again what do I know, I'm a hack

worth flipping to preserve tire life for least another 7k?

 

meh, toe kills tires.

 

Its 1/16th of an inch at each corner thats not that much is it!?

 

So...you have about 1/8" toe out front and rear? Hmmmm...coupled with the camber values you've given, that's definitely enough to cause inside tire wear. What I don't get, though, is why you're running toe out in the rear...if it's to get the car to rotate or minimize push, I'd look to play with other variables, before resorting to rear toe out. In front, 1/8" toe out is not too extreme, but will have a big impact on tire wear. While some like the turn in characteristics of a toe out front on the RX8, it certainly isn't necessary to get the car to turn...

Regardless, I'd say flip the tires on the rims...although, based on the pic, it may be a little late in their life. I don't think you should expect to get anywhere near the mileage out of them, from this point forward, as you have on them currently...i.e. I don't see another 7000 miles in their future, particularly with the current alignment.

 

I had a really really bad issue with oversteer on corner exits, toe out out was the only was the easiest way to take care of it. I still can't push the rebound settings very high in the rear or I'm loose as a goose.

 

Polak, toe out makes the front end turn in quicker, but makes the back end swing out easier (i.e. oversteer). Do you primarily track or autocross your car?

I'd take front toe out down to a 1/16", and set the rear toe at zero to keep the back end planted. Leave alignment as is and definitely flip the tires on the wheels.

 

+1 for chiketkd's advice.

Also, Neova's generally won't last 10K on a car that is driven hard. If you were a granny driving back and forth from Church you might have got 15K out of them if you were lucky. It appears you drive like a bat out of hell though. If you flip them you might get another 2-3K out of them just be careful in the rain. Any tire with that little tread depth will be sketchy in the wet, but you probably already figured that out.

 

I'm talking about on the power corner exits, I had an issue with the rear swinging around, so I was told a little rear toe would minimize this and straighten rear wheels on throttle. Auto-X alignment.

 

Toe in is what is commonly used to tame the rear...

 

Toe in in the rear makes it more stable....toe out makes it looser as a generality

 

I wish I had a printout of my alignment settings it was so long ago that I'm having trouble remembering if i did toe-out on the rear; seams like I might have done toe-in now that I think about it.

mwood what were you on about toe-out "minimizing push"?

I'll call the alignment place little later today, see if they don't have a record.

 

Minimizing push = more tendency towards oversteer.....so what was your question

Try running zero toe in the front and 1/16 total toe in in the rear and see what happens. Play with damping and tire pressure a bit to fine tune around there

 

Well no that's obvious, I was seeing if he was going for another interpretation, i.e. minimize rear end push on corner exit.

I had a about 700lbs of stuff in the car for 1290 miles a few weeks back, more weight causes more camber right?
Could I have scrubbed them on this little road trip? I don't remember them looking this bad a month or two before I drove those 1290 miles.

 

That would do it....Track alignments don't do well on steady state straight line driving. I'm sure that the toe changes with ride height change as well....so your toe was probably worse with the weight in the trunk

 

Camber by itself will not kill tires that quickly. When you combine toe with camber, you start killing tires very quickly.

I run over two degrees of camber in the front (and -1.8 in the rear) of my daily driven RX-8, which doubles as my track car. My street tires are used only on the street, and they're wearing very evenly with over 10,000 miles to date. I run zero toe front and rear.

One twelve hundred mile trip won't do it, either. I log a couple thousand miles a year back and forth to events with hundreds of pounds of gear, tools, wheels, and tires in the car, and my street tires wear just fine.

 

Well I demounted and mounted the tires today, and I put the worse off pair on the rear and the better pair on the front we'll see how the insides of the tires wear over the next few thousand miles.

To the rain warning, I was wondering why on that 1290 mile road tripe when I hit rain in Virginia why it felt like I was hydroplaning like crazy, guess I have my answer.

 

too many cooks in the kitchen and most of them burn water ...

 

I have no idea what that euphemism means.

 

Called the alignment shop, turns out i was thinking correctly least when I got it aligned its .06 toe in in the rear .06 toe out in the front.

 

why so much camber for the street?
OD

 

What's your ride height...if your having problems with too much camber in the front...you might want to check and see if it is too low. Much lower than 25.5-25.0 and you are making things worse cause of the angles of the lower control arms.

 

Well the rear doesn't go any closer to 0 at a 26'' ride height. I keep it in check for when I can auto-x my schedule has prevented me from taking part in alot of recent events.

I know the rears are set at 26'' I will check the fronts later today dan.

 

I'd recommend backing up to -1.8 deg front and -1.5 deg rear for those tires, all IMHO ...