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Hawk brake info

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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #26  
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From: Smallville
Originally Posted by wankelbolt
Disregarding the low temperature problem for a moment, the other factor is HT-10s are $150+, while the HP+ are $95 delivered. I get at least two weekends (16+ hours track time) out of the HP+, how long will the HT-10's last?

HT10's seem to last almost twice as long for me as the HP+ and even more than the HPS

I could burn the HP+ off easily in 2 full days.....
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 08:17 AM
  #27  
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From: Forest Hill, MD
Originally Posted by dannobre
I could burn the HP+ off easily in 2 full days.....
How? Are you running major horsepower?
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 01:48 PM
  #28  
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From: Smallville
Originally Posted by wankelbolt
How? Are you running major horsepower?

Nope..I wasn't then, but when they are really hot they wear very fast......

My local track is very brake intensive. The GT1 cars are all speed limited by how cool they can keep there brakes.

The RX-8 has great brakes for the weight of the car...but they get really hot at this track....

I need to bleed the brakes a lot and use good fluid..or they cook and get real soft, sometimes more than once a day......

Blue and smoking the HP+ don't last very long
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Old Jan 5, 2010 | 02:48 PM
  #29  
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Excellent stuff, Eric. Thanks!

I run HP+ on my car for track and Auto-X. My temps are often WAY higher than the limits on that chart when I do track events, so I should probably think about trying something else. I gunned over 900° on stock front rotors after 12 laps at FIR East a few months ago. They were smoking. The rears were around 500°
Then again, I go into ABS on nearly every braking zone - the brake pedal is way more important than the gas and I don't come off the gas until I'm almost off-track! I'll destroy a complete set of HP+ in less than a year without running them on the street at all.

I have a new set of HP+ in the garage which will get beat on in a variety of events this month. I'll try to get accurate data.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #30  
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From: Forest Hill, MD
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Then again, I go into ABS on nearly every braking zone - the brake pedal is way more important than the gas and I don't come off the gas until I'm almost off-track!
So you are a "fast in, slow out" driver?
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 10:24 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by wankelbolt
So you are a "fast in, slow out" driver?
No, I don't trail-brake. I just don't sit there on my brakes at the start of the braking zone, waiting to slow down when I could still be in the gas.

I just use the whole track - I figure I paid for it.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 05:39 PM
  #32  
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^^^

Most awesome comment I've seen today.....I paid for track days too....maybe I should adopt your kamikaze gangster track skills.
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 05:49 PM
  #33  
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Lol. Not really kamikaze - its just that the RX-8 has great brakes, so why not use them!
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 12:35 AM
  #34  
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thread resurrection

I need a Hawk pad recommendation.

My car:
2004 RX8 MT GT @ 2950lbs + me, coilover suspension, racing brake 2-piece rotors and 255 BFG R1's ( think that's all that matters when it comes to brakes)

Course:
Hallett Motor Racing Circuit (3 hard braking zones (hardest is 105+ down to 30), 3 medium braking zones (all about 90's to 60's these ones are harder to check my speed on )

My driving:
http://vimeo.com/14397485

Need to order tomorrow. Help please.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 12:36 AM
  #35  
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Subscribed to look at later
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 02:47 AM
  #36  
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DTC 60 front, 10 rear


Originally Posted by JantzenRX-8
thread resurrection

I need a Hawk pad recommendation.

My car:
2004 RX8 MT GT @ 2950lbs + me, coilover suspension, racing brake 2-piece rotors and 255 BFG R1's ( think that's all that matters when it comes to brakes)

Course:
Hallett Motor Racing Circuit (3 hard braking zones (hardest is 105+ down to 30), 3 medium braking zones (all about 90's to 60's these ones are harder to check my speed on )

My driving:
http://vimeo.com/14397485

Need to order tomorrow. Help please.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 06:40 AM
  #37  
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From: Seattle, WA
Thank you very much
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 10:39 AM
  #38  
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Personally, with stock power save some big bucks and get HP+ front, HPS rear.

The DTCs are $160 for the 60s while the HP+ are $95. I have been unable to get them to overheat with completely stock brake components and I'm turning 2:20 (maybe 2:19) on VIR full. That has two braking zones from 130 MPH. I have five full track days on the HP+ and they still have life in them.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 11:37 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by wankelbolt
Personally, with stock power save some big bucks and get HP+ front, HPS rear.

The DTCs are $160 for the 60s while the HP+ are $95. I have been unable to get them to overheat with completely stock brake components and I'm turning 2:20 (maybe 2:19) on VIR full. That has two braking zones from 130 MPH. I have five full track days on the HP+ and they still have life in them.
Is that on street tires or R comps?

I ordered DTC-60s but the delivery date was cutting it close, so I ordered a set of HP+ as backup. Looks like I'll have both sets to choose from.

My car is full stock except for a set of BFG-R1s. I am tough on brakes, which set should I use? I do have a set of rotors I was going to dedicate to the DTCs, but if I go with the HP+ I'll just leave the rotors I have on there now.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 12:51 PM
  #40  
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Wanklebolt -- thanks for the input. I actually had another member just sell me a set of lightly used DTC60/HT10's. I'll give them a shot and maybe i'll try the less expensive route next time. I am also curious if you're running on R-comps. That was one of the reasons i was leaning toward the more aggressive pads.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 01:38 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by burglar
Is that on street tires or R comps?

I ordered DTC-60s but the delivery date was cutting it close, so I ordered a set of HP+ as backup. Looks like I'll have both sets to choose from.
Nevermind, I should have just read post #23...
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:31 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by JantzenRX-8
I actually had another member just sell me a set of lightly used DTC60/HT10's.
hey can i try those brakes?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:20 PM
  #43  
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From: Smallville
Originally Posted by wankelbolt
Personally, with stock power save some big bucks and get HP+ front, HPS rear.

The DTCs are $160 for the 60s while the HP+ are $95. I have been unable to get them to overheat with completely stock brake components and I'm turning 2:20 (maybe 2:19) on VIR full. That has two braking zones from 130 MPH. I have five full track days on the HP+ and they still have life in them.

The 60/10 combo will last 4-5 normal track days.....the HP+ you will be lucky to get 2 out of if you are driving hard...

Not sure about your scale of economy now

Not to say the 60/10's work way better as well
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by dondo
hey can i try those brakes?
Half for you half for me
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 05:35 PM
  #45  
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From: Smallville
Originally Posted by dondo
hey can i try those brakes?
You don't want to autocross or drive them on the street.........

They are very sketchy until they are warm
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 05:42 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
You don't want to autocross or drive them on the street.........

They are very sketchy until they are warm
yeah track only for me!
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #47  
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Hey Eric,

What pad would you recomend for Mosport?

My car has coilovers with 9k/6k springs, racing beat sway bars, stainless lines, HP+/HPS, and DBA 2-Piece slotted rotors. Your help is very much appreciated, thanks for all the info you've shared!

Last edited by ScubaSteve8; Aug 31, 2010 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:21 PM
  #48  
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Get some Carbotechs and call it a day
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:37 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by tmak26b
Get some Carbotechs and call it a day
Nawlage, *** getz u sum ...

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/racing-brake-2-piece-rotors-202891/
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 09:56 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by ScubaSteve8
Hey Eric,

What pad would you recomend for Mosport?

My car has coilovers with 9k/6k springs, racing beat sway bars, stainless lines, HP+/HPS, and DBA 2-Piece slotted rotors. Your help is very much appreciated, thanks for all the info you've shared!
We/I run 60/60 at Mosport. We run 60/60 just about everywhere since we changed our suspension setup and stood up the tires. Formerly the hot ticket for our setup for 60/10. The DTC compounds are technically superior to the old Blues and Blacks. Superior. One of the challenges Hawk has comes from the marketing success of the "blue" and "black" products. The DTC compounds are wayyy superior. I digress.

I'd run a 60/10 at Mosport. With a stock or modified suspension you'll most likely be lifting or scubbing the brakes lightly in several of the corners. A pad with a bit less "bite" is better for this. You do NOT want something that you put your big toe on and the front end of the car slams to the ground. You can't drive a car with brakes that have huge bite---it is slower as it upsets the car when you are pushing the limits.

On a diff note, we doubled our pad life with some cool air front brake ducts. Doubled. I know you might think I'm full of hockey pucks but it's true. Rotor wear is up but pad wear is aweessssommmeeee!

Meyer out
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