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#GRIDLIFE Club TR Time Attack RX-8 Build
Hey guys, figure I should move this over to the racing section to keep track of my build process. I'm pretty big on keeping all my own personal info in a single thread that way I have a way of keep track of what I've done over the years. Either way, if this isn't the right spot feel free to move it.. this will also be a consolidation and addition to this newbie section thread I made: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...-racing-270566
So, the story: I've been getting more and more into racing as I've gotten older, and to do that I was using my 98 Impreza (Shameless plug: https://www.rs25.com/threads/equinox...inside.164980/) to race. That car means the world to me and it occurred to me last season that the biggest thing holding me back from going any faster is fear of wrecking that car. It had been in the back of my head to get something I really enjoy, but also don't mind smashing up if it comes to that. The RX-8 has always had my attention as a fairly cheap thrill, having plentiful parts, and a committed community around it. Que my auction buy of an RX-8! I will update the below posts to tell the full story, and keep this main post as a "Table of Contents" of such for the car. The goal is to build a Club TR Time attack car to compete (well, at least participate) in the #GRIDLIFE series around the Midwest. I'm better at putting cars together than racing them, but that doesn't stop me from enjoying a good time! Recent Photo: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bff52adcb4.jpg - - - - Table of Contents - - - - Initial Work 1. Acquiring the Car and Initial Work 2. Initial Work Part 2 Mods 1. Fortune Auto 500 Series Coilovers 2. Momo Steering Wheel + NRG Short Hub + NRG Quick Release + Custom Slip Ring 3. CWEST Aluminum Two Element GT Wing 4. Singular Motorsports Hood Vents 5. Racing Beat REVi Intake System 6. LRB Aluminum Undertray 7. CWEST Aluminum GT Wing 8. Autopower Roll Bar 9. Mazdaspeed Sideskirts 10. Secondary Air Delete 11. 17x9 +35 Enkei RPF-1 w/ RE71Rs 12. Recaro RS-GK Driver's Seat 13. Evo R Endlinks 14. Schroth 6 Point Harness 15. Oil Temp/Pressure and Water Temp Gauges 16. AEM/Custom Intake 17. Hotchkis 21mm Rear Sway Bar 18. OEM Mazdaspeed Rear Diffuser 19. R Magic Brass Shifter Insert 20. Ogura Racing Light HP Clutch Kit 21. Custom End Plates 22. Joe's Racing Rollbar Fire Extinguisher Mount 23. Alumalite Front Splitter 24. Basic Weight Reduction 25. Rear Suspension Makeover + SuperNow Toe Arms + FUCA Superpro Offset Bushings + more 26. S2 4.77 Rear End 28. Front Brake Ducting 29. S2 Fuel Sender 30. CAE Ultimate Shifter 31. Sunroof Delete 32. G-ROM Data Logger 33. Recaro SR-7F Passenger Seat + Schroth Belts 34. Aim Solo 2 DL 35. HKS Hi-Power Catback + Diffuser Removal + Bumper Cutting 36. SuperNow Front Strut Spherical Bushings 37. Cusco RS spec F 1.5 Way Differential + 5.12 Ring and Pinon + Rear Axle Temp Sensor 38. CAN Based Diff Temp Sensor + Cluster Display Update 39. Mazdaspeed Front Bumper + 2.5in Brake Ducts 40. Interior Weight Reduction 41. APR GTC-200 + Risers 42. Super Pro Rear Poly Bushings 43. Alumalite Front Splitter 2.0 44. Sikky Solid Subframe Bushings + New subframe + diff bushings 45. Metra Kit + Carbon Fiber Interior Deletes 46. Antigravity ATX-20 + MeLe Mount 47. Super Pro Rear Front Bushings 48. Swift 8k 5in Rear Springs + Suspension General 49. Gloss Red Black Iridescent Wrap + Cleanup 50. Progress 32mm Front Sway Bar + 95A Bushings 51. Front Brake Ducts 2.0 52. 18x9.5 +35 Wedsport TC105x Wheels 53. Radium Fuel Surge Tank + AEM 450 54. AP Racing CP9200 Calipers w/ 330mm 2 Piece Rotors 55. ARP Extended Wheel Studs 56. G35 1in Brake Master Cylinder + Willwood External Clutch Reservoir 57. Flocked Dash Racing 1. Midnight Films Track Day - Grattan Raceway - June 20, 2020 2. Gridlife Midwest - Gingerman Raceway - Oct 1-4, 2020 3. Midnight Track Day - Grattan Raceway - May 22, 2021 4. Gridlife Autobahn- Autobahn Country Club South Circuit - June 25-27, 2021 5. DSCCA Summer Heat Autocross - Schoolcraft College, Livonia MI - July 3rd, 2021 6. #GRIDLIFE Mid Summer Meet - Mid Ohio Sport Car Course - August 6-8 , 2021 7. #GRIDLIFE Midwest Festival - Gingerman Raceway - September 9-12, 2021 8. Private Track Day - Waterford Hills Road Racing Course - May 11th, 2022 9. #GRIDLIFE Midwest Festival - Gingerman Raceway - June 2-5, 2022 10. AS Motorsports Test Day - Autobahn CC South Circuit - June 22, 2022 11. Gridlife Chicago - Autobahn CC South Circuit - June 25-26, 2022 12. Gridlife Mid Ohio- Mid Ohio Sports Car Course- August 5-7, 2022 13. Midnight Motorsports Track Day- Gingerman Raceway - October 1, 20022 14. Subaru Speed Expo - Gingerman Raceway - October 15-16, 2022 15. Gridlife Midwest Rev Up - Gingerman Raceway - May 20-21 , 2023 16. Gridlife Midwest Festival - Gingerman Raceway - June 1-4 , 2023 17. ASM Test and Tune - Autobahn Country Club - June 23, 2023 18. Gridlife Chicago - Autobahn Country Club - June 24 - 25, 2023 19. Gridlife Mid Ohio Meet - Mid Ohio Sports Car Course - August 4-6, 2023 20. Gridlife Circuit Legends - Lime Rock Park - August 18-20, 2023 Maintenance 1. SSV and VDI Solenoids - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Mod List: Engine -HKS Hi-Power Catback -Agency Power Catless Midpipe -AEM/Custom Intake -Self tuned engine cal w/ VersaTuner + more -Koyo Aluminum Radiator -Secondary air removed -S2 Fuel Sender Suspension/Drivetrain -Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers w/12k/8k valving -12k F Hyperco Springs -8k Rear Swift Springs -Evo R adjustable endlinks -Hotchkis 21mm Hollow adjustable sway bar -Ogura Racing Light HP Clutch Kit -SuperNow Toe Arms -Super Now trailing link bushings (sorta) -SuperNow Front Strut Spherical Bushings -Superpro front control arm bushings w/ caster add -Superpro Poly offset FUCA Bushings -Superpro Diff Mount Bushings -CAE Ultimate Shifter -Cusco RS 1.5 way LSD -5.12 Ring and Pinion gears -Diff temp sensor -Carbotech XP12 Front Brake Pads -Carbotech XP10 Rear Brake Pads -Sikky Solid Rear Subframe bushings -Progress 32mm front sway bar w/ 95A bushings -AP Racing CP9200 Front Calipers w/ custom brackets -CP3580-900G8 Rotors w/ custom 7075-T6 hat -Infiniti G35 1in Brake Master Cylinder + Willwood External Clutch Res w/ custom hardlines Interior/Safety -Autopower Roll bar w/ extra roll bar -Momo 330mm Wheel -NRG Quick Release -NRG Shorthub -Custom designed slip ring (for the horn... why did I spend so much time on this) -Recaro RS-GK Driver's seat w/ Recaro slider and offset side mounts -Recaro SR-7F Passenger seat with Recaro slider -Custom in cluster gauge system over CAN (water temp, oil temp, oil pressure) -Schroth 6 Point harnesses -Metra Dash Kit -Carbon delete panels for radio and glovebox -Flocked Dash Exterior -Singular Motorsports Hood Vents -APR GTC-200 w/ risers -Wedsport 18x9.5 +35 TC105x Wheels -Mazdaspeed OEM Sideskirts -Custom Alumalite Front Splitter (FS Performance Splitter Rods + Professional Awesome Quick Attaches) -Custom Lexan Sunroof Delete -Rear bumper cut -Mazdaspeed Front Bumper + custom 2.5in Brake Ducts/Oil cooler ducts -KPMF Gloss Red Black Iridescent Wrap Other -AC removed -AWR Cooling Duct Plates + Front Ducting -AiM Solo2 DL Datalogger -Antigravity ATX-20 w/ MeLe mount -ARP Extended Wheel Studs |
Acquiring the Car and Initial Work
So back in October I tried to buy this RX-8 at auction on Copart. It was just across the state and the car was listed as a run and drive. Neat. Ended up winning the car (without hitting the reserve) 3 separate times and eventually was able to convince the seller that he/she wasn't going to get what they thought the car was worth. A month or so later, it showed up at my house. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1f181aa456.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...277687103f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6748dfffa0.jpg First things I saw were that it was two colors. Oh boy.. they certainly did NOT look like two colors in the auction pictures.. the sun was hitting the car JUUUUUST right. What have I got myself into!? Upon further inspection, the car didn't looked wrecked in the front.. in fact it looked pretty dang good. Maybe it was oxidized like the roof was a bit..?? The world may never know.. but the paint job is CLEARLY awful and there's overspray all over. The car was also quite a bit rustier than I had hoped. The car report showed the car living a long life in Georgia up until 2014 when it moved up here to Michigan, but even then it didn't have many miles put on it since it had been in the state. Oh well, no big deal.. I'm not afraid to cut holes in things and all that. So I started it up and it seemed to run super well. The battery was nearly dead, but it ran and it drove. It also came with the Agency Power catback and sounded fantastic! Not a bad deal for $1800 DELIVERED. I was trying to figure out why this car was thrown up at auction.. and to make matters worse, it had actually been sold at auction even before I found it back in February of 2019 listed as "mechanical damage". Not really unusual, I figured it had the engine replaced by the people who put it up for auction when I got it. Upon inspection it was very clear the engine had NOT been replaced.. and after some more automotive archeology of cleaning out the interior the car was clearly bought by someone who didn't have much money to treat the car right. So what the hell was WRONG with this car!? I decided to do a "power check", and by that I just meant doing a 0-60 run and seeing how close it was to the factory number. Did my run and the time was around 14 seconds. Yikes... that's not great. This engine must be toast... or wait... maybe the cat is! I pulled off the midpipe to be greeted with this: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6ea5d75b23.jpg I think we found the problem. Stamped it out, popped the pipe back in and did another 0-60 run. We were back down in the 7 second range. Awesome. That makes more sense. I figured the two previous owners figured the engine was going out, and just never thought to check the cat?? I'm not sure. Once I knew I was working with something that wasn't completely trashed, I did the usual things anyone should probably do. Coils, spark plugs, cleaned the MAF, put back on a stock airbox (the car came with a VERY worn out and awful K&N TYPHOOOOOOON intake). I used factory Type C coils, NGK wires and NGK plugs. The stock airbox came from a car I found in a local junkyard. I planned on replacing this, but for less than $20 it was nice to have around. I also ordered new intake pipe nipples from the dealer since mine were toast (sweet vacuum leak post MAF!). https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...905b3b0145.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...11f545d0a3.jpg While everything was apart I also noticed the factory radiator was leaking in like... 4 different spots. No worries, needed to put a nicer rad in there anyways. In went the Koyo! I made sure to try to reuse the OEM foam as much as possible to channel as much air through the rad.. I hear heat is just a huge issue with these cars. I'm sure my battle isn't over. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...93c85de3b5.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0d61330073.jpg With all of these things done, it became very clear to me that this car went through a few owners that just absolutely beat the shit out of the poor car. The car ran fantastic now, had good power, and no longer left puddles in the garage. Now it was time to do something about the small weird things done on the exterior... One thing that was really odd was the gas cap cover was absolutely torn to shreds. I'm assuming someone either tried to break into it, or it was frozen shut... or... I don't really know. Easy fix, and now that worked. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b5a5cf9135.jpg While I was at least making it look nicer, I also found a driver's side door local for 30 bucks that was actually painted the RIGHT color. The paint on the car that was bad was done on the front bumper and fenders and then ONLY the driver's side door.. why.. I have no idea, but at least for 30 bucks it could be isolated to just the front area. The door also came with a Bose door amp and lock solenoid, both of which seemed to be wonky on my car so I was happy to have extras to fix stuff at a later date. I also replaced BOTH mirrors because they were blown off... what the hell happened to this poor car!? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...2327295d20.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5deb9a0fd0.jpg So now with the many minor things worked out.. I could spend some time on starting to do things to the car to ENHANCE the race car potential of it, instead of fighting poor previous owner's choices. |
Initial Work Part 2
Continuing the strategy of first getting a good baseline of a car to work with, I had noticed that the lower ball joint was completely trashed. FIRST THINGS FIRST: If I had looked up the recall, I could have saved myself LOTS of time and money... but alas this is the story :dunce:. Seeing the broken ball joint I ordered a new (used) part from ebay and went to go install it. Thought it was going to be an easy job, but instead it basically just ended up being the cause for me to finally buy an angle grinder. Bolt seized, blah blah blah, this seems like a pretty common thing on these cars. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...294a5999c3.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b062413f62.jpg By the time I realized I could have taken the car in for the recall, I had already ordered new bolts, as well as factory endlinks since they were both blown out in the front (THIS POOR CAR) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...2688415872.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...2976ad9333.jpg Either way, with the car FINALLY back on the ground and now actually having a front swaybar I felt like I at last had a useable car to determine what my goal was here. And yes, I do plan on taking the car in to get the other side done (also completely seized) and have them replace this side as well. I drove the car around quite a bit and started to really enjoy it. Now it was time to party. |
Fortune Auto 500 Series Coilovers
So I was looking at the Ohlins Road and Track coilovers but didn't really like the springs they came with and also didn't really want to spend as much money on struts initially. I found a member selling these coilovers and it seemed like an absolute no brainer. Had some good springs, and the dampers were also properly valved. Pretty simple install. I left the settings as they were on the previous owners car. I will corner balance and set everything up once I have everything ready for the race intent... still a lot to gather and install. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...379688c731.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c9c4d830c9.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3a46f61d9e.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d35baef849.jpg As you can tell, the endlinks ABSOLUTELY need to be replaced with some shorter ones. I have some Flyin' Miata adjustables I have and just need to get on the car. I also cut some holes in the rear trim for little doors to adjust the dampers. Didn't really see the need in ripping everything out just yet... and also at this time I wasn't sure if I was going to run Street or Street Mod class, so I made an attempt to keep the interior as in tact as possible. The only other issue with the adjusters I ran into was in the front. The factory strut bar seems to hit the adjuster caps. Probably just going to go with an aftermarket bar. While I was under the car, I also noticed the rear suspension was pretty much in dire need of needing to be redone... but that's a project for anything day. |
Momo Steering Wheel + NRG Short Hub + NRG Quick Release + Custom Slip Ring
Well, the steering wheel install part was easy.. the making of a slip ring simply be able to use a horn on a race car was not.. however It really didn't take that long, and the results are fantastic. As far as the steering wheel and quick release install, it was very plain and simple with the kits made for the car. I also wired in some 2.2 Ohm resistors just to keep the airbag light off. Easy enough to alleviate a light. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...cce726eaa8.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e931059802.jpg The complicated bit was when I got tired of seeing people use paper clips and bobby pins for the horn contact. I decided to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon designing a quality interface so I could be able to use my horn. This is what I ended up with: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3a3c4fda63.png The idea was that a piece bolt bolt right in place of the factory clockspring, and using a stationary machined brass ring with a wire soldered on it would create a slip ring to make contact with NRG hubs brass rear. The springs were there to preload the piece against the hub for all wear situations and there was a key and race to take any radial movement out of the brass ring as well. So I fired up the 3D printer and using ABS plastic (the minimum one should be using for automotive applications) printed out my parts. I then sent my drawing of the brass ring off to my buddy where he machined it for me (Check his stuff out, he's a car guys and makes cool stuff: http://realitymachine.us/) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...686570a968.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...68d8c0e375.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...7ce883a071.jpg I then assembled it all in car (well, this was over the course of many design revisions and a week or two..) and everything worked perfectly! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d38be42f51.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e46a11d8b6.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ea3f2b17e3.jpg Everything works and fit great, the only thing left to do is thrash it around and see if it doesn't break! I've also put all the files and instructions up on my Github page for anyone wanting to make this themselves: https://github.com/equinox311/RX8-slip-ring |
CWEST Aluminum Two Element GT Wing
This was kind of an impulse buy because I got a good deal on it. It's also one of the thing that puts me into Street Mod up from Street class. I'm not going to be competitive in either class, so I may as well add fun stuff to the car to play with. I've never done any sort of aero on a car before, so this is my dive into a whole new world. I know I am doing things wrong, but I will learn as I go surely. Right now the wing still requires some reinforcements... will update post once I have a solution. I know the proper way would be to add trunk scaffolding, but I don't really have the time or resources to make something properly right now. So my idea is going to be reinforcement plates for the trunk. Anyway: Install was pretty simple. Measure up some holes, poke em through, cut out the trunk carcass and there it is. Like I mentioned I know I need reinforcement, but these pictures show what it is at the moment. I am not planning to even drive the car like this. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...dea09aea1c.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...2a9e5c1f46.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b43f4da9c7.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bc9e1a5c81.jpg I'll also come up with a way to cover up and seal the holes. Maybe I'll weld them up. Will make another post once that's done. Also to note: I will need to gaffer tape up or remove the second element and that is NOT allowed in Street Mod. Will decide what's best to do as those events come closer. EDIT: Was able to get my hands on some 3/16 aluminum and just made some backing plates that extended out towards the rear and sides of the trunk. This wasn't planned to be my final solution, but it works super well. The entire trunk is now deflecting instead of the local metal. With my weight (all massive 120lbs of it -_-) i can make the car squat even after the deflection of the trunk occurs. We will see what this looks like in practice and figure out what other things need to happen to create effective aero. This is all a learning activity for me, do I don't plan on perfect, or even good, results off the hop. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...edb9862349.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0c508e3d08.jpg |
Singular Motorsports Hood Vents
I know cooling seems to be a bit of a hassle on these cars, and hood vents are a pretty easy way to try to help with that. I was looking into some waaaaaaaay more expensive options, like an R-Magic hood, or even some replicas of that hood. I figured I could reduce weight and get some cooling.. but no one seemed to have weights for their hoods and quite frankly, the OEM hood is pretty dang light. No use to spend nearly $2000 to save a pound or two. I had seen someone post about installing these hood vents and I thought they looked pretty slick and were at a pretty much impossible to beat (aside from just cutting holes) price point. Ordered a set, waited the month and some change to get them in, and started to chop up my hood! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ed6a726a6d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...2b60fd909e.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...252cd0c5ac.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...53bcc057c0.jpg Install was super straight forward, and my aforementioned angle grinder came in handy! The only issue I realistically had was the rivet tails not breaking off.. but I attribute that to my crappy rivet gun. The vinyl guide was also kind of cheap, but not really the end of the world. It peeled up some of my paint (guaranteed way shittier than the vinyl though) but that didn't bother me. Definitely would suggest these to a friend for ease of install and price. As far as performance goes, I have no idea... don't have a baseline to compare them to.. and can only assume more holes = more cool. |
Racing Beat REVi Intake System
First and foremost I have to say that all in all I am extremely unimpressed with fitment per the price point of this intake new. It really isn't great quality and I am 100% willing to remove it. It's also possible I have an older version, or mismatched parts because I bought it used. Got the whole intake for a pretty decent deal. Wasn't really planning on using an aftermarket intake, however I figured I could try with an open mind. First I removed the factory VFAD. It really seems like a wayyyyyy too complicated system to be of any use.. however I guess the principle of it makes sense. In it's place I put the Racing Beat intake sucker-thinger. It fit like garbage, but I continued nonetheless. I also trimmed the little shroud in order to keep the air channel as normal as possible. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...44a6886da6.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9759519f20.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8ce201612e.jpg I then wrestled in the intake tube, filter and airbox. I think a lot of the airbox fitment issues were do to my Koyo radiator getting in the way.. but knowing how well Koyo stuff fits vs random Mazda aftermarket company.. my bets are that it fits pretty poorly always. The MAF housing barely seemed long enough to make good contact with the airbox and the after MAF hose.. I'm still a little leery of the connection. I guess I can just keep an eye on fuel trims and I'll know it if starts leaking. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...82e4d161a3.jpg To Racing Beat's credit, their claims of "low intake noise" are true, and I am happy to be able to remove the stock intake box and VFAD solenoid mount to try to promote more airflow through the radiator.. so I guess in that regard I am happy about this install. Haven't had enough drive time to see if I'll need to rescale the MAF or not, but my guess is that it'll be "good enough". |
I just helped install one a couple of days ago ...... Didn't have to rescale the maf at all ...which is actually unusual for aftermarket intakes. Install was way harder than it should be but ....it looks nice :)
Can those vents be glued to the hood vs the rivets ? |
Alright! I think I have most of the work on the car updated, though definitely out of chronological order. I still do have some other stuff I am working, but not quite done enough to make a stand alone post for... here's what's coming..
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...71bb3687ca.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4f404a1a36.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8441c097b9.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ac80d8b6f2.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d03d75f71e.jpg I've also got a few small things to update, and some super cool electronics stuff to do... all in due time.. will keep this thread up to date as time goes on. |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4911219)
I just helped install one a couple of days ago ...... Didn't have to rescale the maf at all ...which is actually unusual for aftermarket intakes. Install was way harder than it should be but ....it looks nice :)
Can those vents be glued to the hood vs the rivets ? As far as the vents... I SUPPOSE you could glue them.. but I really wouldn't want to considering the hot environment it will be under. |
I think I'm gunna steal your brake vent through the fog lamp hole idea .... Mine get waaay too hot ATM!
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Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4911222)
I think I'm gunna steal your brake vent through the fog lamp hole idea .... Mine get waaay too hot ATM!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3502a1d678.jpg |
Oh wow ..that is way cool (no pun intended) . I'll pm you for a price !
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Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 4911225)
Oh wow ..that is way cool (no pun intended) . I'll pm you for a price !
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LRB Aluminum Undertray
Kind of regret buying this because I really just see it being more of a pain in the ass than worth any sort of benefit... but full disclosure my car might not be the perfect example of fitment. The car doesn't have an OEM bumper, and some of the chassis mounts for the undertray were full of broken, rusted bolt. So I guess my experience may differ from yours. So yeah, came in the mail, I bent the parts per the directions. All of that was well, and then mounting it on the car was just a huge pain in the ass. It's also very flimsy aluminum which I kind of expected, but am all kind of sad about. I was really hoping to use this as a small baseline for a proper chassis mounted splitter (was going to make larger holes for mounting to the chassis, and attach material to the aluminum pieces), but I really don't see this as a good way to do that. Is it a good replacement for a torn up plastic one? Probably. Is it going to increase cooling or reduce front end lift? I doubt it. Either way, here's your install pics: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b0a1c43073.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...04b6968563.jpg |
My suggestion would have been to drill out the rivets “carefully” on the OE piece, then replace them with larger rivet nuts and screws/washers. You can then drop off the center piece without also having to remove the two vertical support pieces. However, you should be looking at installing a front splitter to compliment the rear wing. Which extending and tying it in there and a few other places will greatly stiffen up the whole thing.
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Couple other thoughts
not sure why you went through all that for a horn, but there are aftermarket race steering wheel add-on horn button kits that cost literally nothing. same for adding resistors to get rid of the SRS light rather just unplug or remove the SRS control module. . |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4911445)
My suggestion would have been to drill out the rivets “carefully” on the OE piece, then replace them with larger rivet nuts and screws/washers. You can then drop off the center piece without also having to remove the two vertical support pieces. However, you should be looking at installing a front splitter to compliment the rear wing. Which extending and tying it in there and a few other places will greatly stiffen up the whole thing.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4911446)
Couple other thoughts
not sure why you went through all that for a horn, but there are aftermarket race steering wheel add-on horn button kits that cost literally nothing. same for adding resistors to get rid of the SRS light rather just unplug or remove the SRS control module. . Plus if you rip the module out, you'll still get a light on the dash. Not that a light is a big deal, but when I have the parts laying around to make it off.. maybe as well spend the 30 seconds. |
yeah, I forgot that the light is likely tied into the dash ecu. It must have been on since 2009 in my car. Going to assume it must always be on because I never notice, lol.
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4911543)
yeah, I forgot that the light is likely tied into the dash ecu. It must have been on since 2009 in my car. Going to assume it must always be on because I never notice, lol.
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Figured I'd just make note of this here since it's fairly relevant and work I am doing.
Was able to pull the ROM from the ECU, both on the car and on my bench. My bench ECU is factory software, where the Versatuner stuff on my car isn't.. so per romraider rules I have only posted the factory ROM. https://www.romraider.com/forum/view...150296#p150296 My suuuuper legit and not ghetto bench: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1671863829.jpg |
I’m glad I am not the only one who felt a little underwhelmed by the aluminum undertray.
I too struggled to get the fitment right. Honestly even the final result I am not happy with. I’ve also found the hardware’s corrosion coating to be mega inadequate. But oh well, it is solid and costs less than the plastic. |
CWEST Aluminum GT Wing
Alright, so this was a mod that's fairly "controversial". Will it work? I have no idea! Is it gonna flex the trunk? Maybe! Was it a cheap item that allows me to figure out how a damn wing works or doesn't work? Yes! Looking at the wing, its height and length both met the Gridlife street mod rules (under the roofline and no wider than the car), so I figured what the heck, let's try it out. I will need to gaffer up the second element, but that's no biggie. According to my brother, who is (by degree) an aerospace engineer based on the profile of the wing is has a large amount of camber in the downward direction and should create a decent amount of downforce. Anecdotal, but hey.. whatever gets me to talk to my brother! Anyways, mounted up the wing and added some big fat 3/16 aluminum as backing plate that extend out to the edges of the trunk to give it some rigidity. I KNOW the right way would be to create a trunk structure, but that's just not in the scope of the car right now. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f62709cd4f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a5d88765da.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f62c5a1107.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ca210a5232.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0a4b466848.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a50d9b1066.jpg I put my entire weight on the wing (all 120lbs of it at least) and while the deck did flex a bit, the suspension did compress and the trunk actually gains angle when it is flexed down so it should be safe and MAYBE useful. I have no idea. It hasn't flown off the car let about 60mph, so that's a plus. |
Autopower Roll Bar
Safety third! I really wanted to get some aftermarket seats in the car to bring down some weight, as well as to get some seats that properly bolster me. In order to do that I also needed to use some harnesses and obviously those needed to be mounted properly in the car with a bar. I'd really like to say this mod was mostly for safety, but I think the benefits on a bolted in roll bar aren't as much as one may think... but I guess any metal where the B pillar would be is better than none. I don't know. The point is, I am doing this out of a driver comfort item more than a safety item and I know that. Anyways. Install was really actually simple. Fit, drill, bolt, trim in that order. The only semi annoying issue I ran into was the bar hitting the dome light even after specifying my car had a sunroof. Not the end of the world, but the little things since I am required to keep the interior in the car. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ba2bbf6637.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...88ed842933.jpg I did end up removing a lot of the sound deadening tar to get the bolts in nicely. Definitely wouldn't want to bolt it in through that stuff. Also, my method of using a compressed can of air upside down to freeze everything off worked really well! No dry ice or any of that nonesense. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d73b672166.jpg As you can see here, the dome light had to be removed. I will probably rig up some sort of LED light mounted on the bar just to be able to get some light in the cabin when needed. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3191e58ec0.jpg Rear door cards were cut to accommodate the bar, and make access easier. I think TECHNICALLY per the ruleset I don't need to have them in, but it's like 2lbs and I have to keep rear seats anyways. Pretty happy with the rollbar so far. easy install, does what it says on the box, can easily mount harnesses and other things to it. Super stoked! |
Mazdaspeed Sideskirts
So the car was missing an aerogaurd on one side, is rusted to hell on the rockers, and I'm allowed to run factory aero... so like.. Mazdaspeed sideskirts seemed like an easy go to. Plus the look cooler. Do they make the car more slippery? I have no idea. But the bottoms are actually fairly flat, and rust bubbles have a terrible drag coefficient (i assume). https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d00157c3be.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1f0c0276a8.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...51778b06cc.jpg Install was simple because everything fit up. I was a bit disappointing with some of the holes from the aerogaurds not lining up so instead of drilling a ton of holes in the rockers I just used 3M tape. I expect this to fail eventually, but it works for now. I did drill a hole in each for the rear wheel well mounting so it IS popped in nicely on the front and back. The car looks so much nicer, and this was definitely the best way to fix all the rust ;) |
hide it you mean ... rust never sleeps
you have to keep rear seats for the rules? Was scratching my head on that, but if required then that makes sense since they’re unusable with the cage. The charcoal cloth rear seats are lighter. |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4912395)
hide it you mean ... rust never sleeps
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4912395)
you have to keep rear seats for the rules? Was scratching my head on that, but if required then that makes sense since they’re unusable with the cage. The charcoal cloth rear seats are lighter.
But yeah, obviously useless except for losing things in. Not really concerned about weight right now. Just want a car that works and I can drive without worrying about it being the prettiest thing ever. |
heh, my bad on missing the joke
well keep up the good work. |
Secondary Air Pump Delete
No cat, no need. It gone. Had a fun time with the manifold because (as expected) a stud broke when removing the pipe. No biggie, pulled the manifold off, removed the studs, and then proceeded to break off new bolts in the manifold because I suck. Whoops. Just decided to buy a new (used) manifold to swap everything on to. Ended up rounding the O2 sensor off, because even after heating the hell out of the old one, it still didn't want to come off. There goes some more beer money.. New manifold also of course had the heat shielding completely rusted off. Not sure how I feel about that, especially on the top part where it is near the intake manifold. May have to find a solution for that sooner than later. I used a Racing Beat blockoff plate and a new gasket (which by the way, from Racing Beat is the wrong gasket for that plate.. but.. I guess if you're blocking it off it doesn't matter) which seemed to work fine. Could make your own for way cheaper if you have the equipment of course. I'll remove the P code from the ECU when I can get my hands on a new laptop to be able to flash it as well. Either way, it's all back on and I was able to swap out an engine mount in the process too. Funny thing I noticed was that when removing the mount to block aluminum mount, one of the bolts was hand tight... may explain the vibrations I was feeling. Vibration seems to be down with the one new mount in, and I do have the other side as well. I'll get to that some other day. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d9c7b08532.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e93b987b0e.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...55f9886b4e.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e9d2e2bd80.jpg |
Not worthy of it's own standalone post.. swapped out some fluids. Other consumables are on the way.
Transmission: -2 quarts of Motul 300 75w90 Rear Differential: -1 quart of Motul 300LS 75w90 Engine: -4 quarts of Idemitsu 10w30 Rotary Racing Oil -Mazda OEM filter On the way: Brakes: -ATE Type 200 Fluid for all -Centric Premium front rotors (they were out of high carbons and 1-3months timeline to get em in.. grrr) -Centric High Caron rear rotors -Carbotech XP12 F/R pads Old fluids didn't look too terrible, but the trans and diff drain plugs definitely had some material on them. Transmission input noise was noticeably quieter, but we will see when it all gets hot. I've also noticed a pretty decent CLUNK when putting it into first gear from a stop. I'm assuming the clutch is just a little bit spongy and it's not disengaging everything as fast as I shove it in gear. Hoping the fluid flush with the shared reservoir will help, but I am not optimistic. Not the end of the world, just something I've noticed. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3c37b74835.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3c16041b73.jpg |
Hey, Equinox. If you're looking for a front sway bar, I have a progress bar I don't plan on using and is taking up garage space.
I'm local to you too. Shoot me a PM if you're interested. |
Got the brake parts in and on the car. Rear dust boost were absolutely trashed by the last guy that was in there, and because of that there was quite a decent amount of rust on the pistons. Ordered new rear calipers and just popped these ones back on while I wait.
Fronts were in good shape, only had to service one caliper slide. ATE Type 200 fluid will go in once I get the rears fixed up... and then we wait to get everything bedded in. Pretty excited to give the XP-12s a try! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...cf6e053c23.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...435d6badf8.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0ad99ec27b.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6a00724d33.jpg |
Aaaaaaaaand new rears + ugly fluid out. Put 1.5 liters of ATE through.. still had some garbage coming out but I think it'll be good enough to get hot and then bleed again at some other time.
Suuuper stoked to get this thing bedded in. First track day for shakedown was supposed to be the 18th, but Michigan is currently shutdown to due COVID until at least the 13th, so we will see what the event status is then. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...60c69ed664.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8a4f4646d6.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a5a130f270.jpg |
So do you tie the shoestrings on the right shoe or the left shoe first?
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My thoroughness and over documentation isn't for you, it's for me when I can remember anything in two months.
I'm not making you keep up :dunno: But hey, since you're asking... the right one.. probably... |
well you know it’s a racing forum and you’re building a “time attack” car, glad I won’t forget what dirty brake fluid looks like :)
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I'll try to do better at pleasing sir TeamRX8 in the future, I assure you it's the toppest of my priorities.
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I do he same thing (as a note to myself in my threads) ... Enjoying the ride ...carry on :)
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It has nothing to do with pleasing me or anyone else reading it, because that’s not at all why anyone participates on a public forum. Not that I know anything about getting feedback or allowing emotions to be in control. Or being goaded either.
I’d really be surprised if any public group type events occur before the end of April, but I guess we just have to wait and see. Did you do anything at all yet to assess the condition of the engine? |
hey look, don’t read too much negativity into my intent or take it too personal. There are people on here who love to promote that kind of us vs them sort of mentality. Try to be more like this guy instead and you’ll be way ahead of the curve than they are:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...tricks-271094/ the question below is sincere, just let me know if you need help with it or anything else. Those same people never mention anything about that side of coin:
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 4913898)
Did you do anything at all yet to assess the condition of the engine?
. |
You're an interesting individual, which is totally fine. I'll just take it for what it is.
Anyways: as far as assessing the condition of the engine.. I haven't done much of anything to verify it. Why you may ask? Because in my grand scheme, it doesn't really matter. If I test it and it's good, wonderful! Business as usual and I'll drive it until it falls apart and go from there. If it test it and it's less than good, not AS wonderful, but I'll drive it until it falls apart and go from there. This isn't my only, or even second car right now and it's cheap enough I'm not insanely concerned about the well being of it. I just want to get some laps in without being paranoid about smacking a wall and breaking something I love. I know a lot of people love these cars are more than just tools (I get it, my Impreza is the same way), but for me it's simply a tool that I will until it needs servicing or replacing. Nothing more. So engine in good shape or bad shape, it still runs and provides torque to the other parts of the vehicle, so I will keep on sending it until it doesn't. |
I get it, that’s cool. :). And let’s be honest; we’re fortunate in this country to have that kind of liberty and opportunity in our lives.
I’m hopeful that once we come out of this national emergency situation that people will become a bit more reflectful and appreciative for it. Perhaps we’ve all become a bit too spoiled and jaded over time, taking too much for granted ... . |
17x9 + 35 Enkei RPF-1s w/ RE71-Rs
Finally got the tires in and on. Threw the wheel on. Simple as that. Story on the wheels was that I was looking for a used and abused set of 17x9-10in wheels, but everyone wanted pretty much the same price I could get them for new with tires I'd just like to rip off. Had some buddies at Oakos (shameless plug: https://www.oakos.com/) hook me up with a "buy 3 get one free" wheel deal on exactly what I needed. Super grateful of them and you should buy stuff from them. They aren't paying me, I just love our local speed shop. Either way, ended up getting this new set for less than I could buy used stuff for. Add in some fresh 255/40/17 RE71Rs and it's your pretty standard wheel/tire. Had to go with gold as a callback to my Subaru people! Need an alignment and corner balance.. but waiting to get the damn seat it to throw it on the scales... as well as finish up some other stuff that will shift weight around. Pictures as always: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5ad9d258be.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8a9de4e877.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...974e07bbaa.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bad6a31b33.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9fc95543f5.jpg |
Figured I'd post this here since it somewhat relevant and may spark some interest. Many people have worked on reverse engineering the OBD PIDs from the ECU for ECU parameters to log, and that's all well and good. I've also been able to dump my own flash ROM and modify stuff, and all that.
What a lot of people haven't look at is the ABS unit/EBCM. Looking at the data that can some from the EBCM is pretty cool. I've lost the link to the PID list (in the manual at least) but it looks like we can look at lat G from the properly calibrated G sensor, yaw rate, and brake pressure. All super fun things to have logged. Today I decided to dig into that. Using some open source OBD software, and not using it for OBD stuff, I was able to sniff my little Bosch code reader interfacing with the EBCM over K Line. Luckily the unit uses a Ford protocol, so it actually talks to me device. This is some of the data I found: 0x64 0x28 0xF2 0x22 0x02 0x00 0xA2 0x74 0xF2 0x28 0x62 0x02 0x00 0x02 0xF4 0x44 0x28 0xF2 0x13 0x71 0xA4 0xF2 0x28 0x53 0x00 0x00 0x53 0x06 0x00 0x00 0x6A 0x44 0x28 0xF2 0x20 0x7E 0x94 0xF2 0x28 0x7F 0x20 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x4D 0x44 0x28 0xF2 0x10 0x6E 0x94 0xF2 0x28 0x7F 0x10 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x3D Looks like a bunch of mess until you pull some of it apart. Looking into the data I found these to be true: TX to the module: 0x44 0x28 0xF2 0x10 0x6E RX from the module: 0x94 0xF2 0x28 0x7F 0x10 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x3D If you break some of these messages down, the translation is: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8e63bda722.png Basically, the test tool tells the module "hello", how much data it's going to send, who it's sending it to, and where it's coming from. Then it will give it a subroutine (could be initiating a diagnostic session, or requesting a PID) and then a checksum. The module will the response with "hello", how much data it's going to send, where the data is coming from, who the data is for, a response (positive if it can give it data, or negative if it doesn't support that subroutine/can't give data), the data it wants you to have, and then the checksum Pretty simple, and it may sound familar because it follows a normal ISO9141 serial w/ a baud of 10400 with physical addressing. The physical addressing is what can change from manufacturer to manufacturer. Working on writing a simple API to send arbitrary data to be able to blast PIDs out to the module and parse data back. I can adds these into my ECU parameters and get them all on a common t axis :D |
It might be best to post a common english summary in a sentence or two of that last paragraph since most people don’t speak technogeek.
I’m assuming you need traction control for that, which I suppose was fairly common on a lot of RX8s, but the non-TC base models had a different ABS module. It was my understanding that there is no actual brake pressure measurement; just on/off, but we’ll see I suppose. |
That was my common english haha.
And yeah, I would assume you'd need a DSC/TC unit for it to support that data... luckily I have that stuff. There is a pressure transducer in the module's block, and should measure MC pressure. Any ABS module SHOULD have this as it's useful for ABS calibration (source: used to work making software for brake control units :D) Anyways, did some more digging after work tonight, found what I think is a complete list of routines (UDS and otherwise) supported by the module over the data line. Most gave me "conditions not correct" failure, but that means they are supported I just didn't have the vehicle in the right mode. Here is the list + my notes: 0x22 - Read data by identifier? 0x10, gives negative response but unit does a self test.. believe this is diag mode request.. but needs another request (maybe 85 like the ECM?) 0x13 Data back, two instances: 44 28 F2 13 71 A4 F2 28 28 53 53 0 0 0 0 0 53 0 6 0 0 0 0 11 6A 0x14 or 0x15 gave me a 0x21, which means the module is in wait... odd.. 0x27, got a conditions not correct just asking with key on 0x31, same as above 0x32, same 0x33, same 0x3F, got a 0x00 response code... weird.. 0x42, 0x22 response code with just key on 0x43, 0x22 0xB1, 0x22 I've got some software that will send arbitrary packets, calculates a checksum, and reads back a response. I would like to make this so that the data length is also arbitrary for ease of use.. but I didn't feel like making it nice just to get some starting data. |
well if you can get the pressure reading figured out and working I’d like to see if I can access it through the CAN network on my non-TC ABS module.
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It won't be over CAN, otherwise the data would be waaaay easier for me to get haha.
I've already got everything over CAN pretty much situated. Wheel speeds, vehicle speed, RPM, temps, etc> Also adding my own sensors over CAN to interface with a cluster/logger. Oil temp/pressure, things of that nature. Example A: |
Sweeeeet did some more work on the ABS unit today. Decided to write some software to get every PID from the module. Basically just blasted it with everything looking for a positive response and stored that address in eeprom to look at later.
Kinda ghetto, and I think I missed some.. but I did get quite a few. Also, I was able to figure a few signals out, and also with more PID IDs I was able to google and get more info off the hop. I found alllll the signals I needed. Would be fun to figure more out as well. Here's what I got: RX-8 ABS Module PIDs 1165 192B 3A46 - MC Pressure 3A45 - Yaw rate 3A44 - Lat Accel 3A43 - G Sensor related maybe? Raw?? 398B 398A 3989 3988 3987 3201 3294 2904 2903 2900 - Brake pedal off/on 4100 E21B E219 E200 D105 D100 C9FE C9F4 C9F3 C9F2 C9F1 C9F0 B902 0201 Bonus setup pics: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...7d6c18d483.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bed8c709ed.jpg Time to get together a propper logger and setup a data steam :) |
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