olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I have learned the hard way.
I cant use the rotors on track again--
deposited really bad.
i have the oem replacement 1 piece RB rotor. and carbotech xp8 pads
I will not be so limited on pad selection that RB now advises.
Oh well--
OD

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

They provide extensive info on their website had you bothered to check.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

i called them directly team. Dont assume that i was lazy.

They warned me of the POSSIBILITY as they had seen this with the 2 piece rotor. No mention of the one piece having any incompatibility issues. I told them since I had already ran xp 8's on the rear with the RB one piece with only minimum deposits--i thought it would be ok. I was told it should be OK--just clean them, bed them correctly and get them up to temps.
I dont know what made this time different?
My track prep was the same.
All I know at this time is the rotors are no longer track worthy and fingers are crossed that they will not develop shutter on the street. They have multiple black spots that is realistically unrecoverable and my brake man (scca for years) told me they were "done" They have about 3 K street miles on them.
I will go with oem or stop tech in the future. Never had a problem with either of those even with multiple pad types.
live and learn.
OD

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

You can remove the deposits with sandpaper or coarse steel wool

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Or a set of race pads on the street for a day

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Btw, I'm not assuming you're anything. This subject involving RB has been around for 4 or 5 years, and at least double or triple that involving Carbotech and certain rotors, evensome OE rotors.

Spin9k

^ deposits on the 1 pc rears was your missed warning alarm.
Your nice/fast FI setup puts you well into true racer territory.
Far more than any NA car, you need superior brakes/pads, i.e., a good race pad.

Reason I favor Cobalt is their pressure cast only.
No resin, no mess possible.
Realize your resistance to try new things/anger, but read the news http://www.cobaltfriction.com/news/
Racer's use products that help them win.

Don't work for them/wish i did
But I am biased....because they are that good.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Turning them will not help Read this...

" Cast iron is an alloy of iron and silicon in solution interspersed with particles of carbon. At elevated temperatures, inclusions of carbides begin to form in the matrix. In the case of the brake disk, any uneven deposits - standing proud of the disc surface - become hotter than the surrounding metal. Every time that the leading edge of one of the deposits rotates into contact with the pad, the local temperature increases. When this local temperature reaches around 1200 or 1300 degrees F. the cast iron under the deposit begins to transform into cementite (an iron carbide in which three atoms of iron combine with one atom of carbon). Cementite is very hard, very abrasive and is a poor heat sink. If severe use continues the system will enter a self-defeating spiral - the amount and depth of the cementite increases with increasing temperature and so does the brake roughness."

That is what has happened to mine. Noticed fading braking on the next to last session of the last day of tracking. They didnt grab nearly as well.
I have tried wool, paper, entire can of brake cleaner on one rotor, heated it with torch(carefully lol) etc.

Ok what pad is best for a track w/e pad that i can run on the street for a week before and after the track, rotor friendly, dust easily removed, gives me long pad life and modulates well?
hawks dtc dust can be a bitch to remove if left on for a little while--same with cobalt? DTC's and cobalts are not nearly so rotor friendly, but i think the dtc are a little better than the cobalts?
Carbotechs have aways given me all the above+ great braking. I have to buy new rotors for track use anyway--so i may end up with the stop tech rotors?
Has anyone gone down this road?
How do the hawks dtc compare to the carbotech race pads?
OD

Spin9k

cobalts..dust no worse than hawks. I remove easily w/any wheel cleaner/water whenever.
...cobalt doesn't recommend street use of pads. I run them 7/24/365. town/hywy/track. have for 4 yrs. - don't know what their reason is
xcelent street bite/no problems w/rotors/ only 0-5mph noise/big deal
Never heard of significant rotor wear / never had noticeable myself / dunno?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

thanks spin---i have a couple friends that run cobalts and they are the ones that told me not to get the brake dust damp and then let it sit overnight. Bitch to get off after that?
They do like the way the cobalts work. They are not as available as the hawk dtc's.
If i go with Hawk--would the 60's be ok or 70's be better? Probably 70's?
Guess I need to read/search some. Seems I have outgrown the carbotechs?

Heck--brakes only slow you down anyway. Anyone ever driven a fast lap without brakes----fun!

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

It's funny how you more or less blame the rotor, but not the pads


Which came first; teh chicken or teh egg?



.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Try DSC 60F and HT10R

I like the HT10 front and rear..and haven`t had any problems..

Try driving a set of track pads on your rotors for a week or so on the street where they are cold...the pad deposits might come off.....the cementite thing is at very high temps so you might just have melted on deposits ..

Spin9k

..must be wheels without any clearcoat or ?? ..dunno
..my 17" & 18" Enkei wheels & 17" Discounttiredirect wheels have been no problem
easy clean like new when dust is wet, dry, moist, or dried after being wet, wet after being dry, baked on, rained on..it just rinses off
I've even left dirty wheels in the corner over the winter couple times and washed them up no problem on a Spring day..

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

ok good news--thanks spin. Maybe these guys park ther cars for a week with it on--dont know.
Team-- i am not "blaming" the rotors. wth? Its plain and simple an incompatibility issue. Thats it. Nothing wrong with the rotors EXCEPT they limit your choice of pad. After running carbotechs for years--used to them etc--just hate to change. You of all people should be able to understand that.
Dan--thanks--HT10's ? Do you trailer? Ok, cold on the street for a day or 2?
I will try your suggestion--heard of using abrasive pad to clean the rotor--just never have had to do it before.
I will order the HT 10's (maybe through Eric) and try them out. I will be at CMP with NASA in Nov.
OD

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I saw your comments in another thread too, that's just the way it came across ...

I suppose there's nothing wrong with the pads except they limit your choice of rotors ....

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Ha! My chicken came first.
D

Galen Darkmoon

Stop chokin dat chicken, we know thats a national sport down south. YAAAAAR

MT ye mail ye southerner. lol soz I can nag ye more

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

well ---just a f/u to serve as a stronger warning to those that need it.
I have been running oem pads on my rotors for over a week now (yes I did do a light cleaning after I took the carbotechs off) and oem pads will NOT clean these deposits off---it builds on it actually.
So i took off my rotors and tried to do a scrub cleaning with the old sandpaper, steel wool, multiple cans of brake cleaner etc. Doesnt work---No way in hell to get it all off without possibly making it worse.
So I have to take them in for a turn to clean and true them up. Damn--- i hate turning my almost new brake rotors.
Live and learn. I should have remember the warning others had given me some time a go---
OD

Razz1

Well it's too late now... but did you cryogenicaly treat them.

I have good experience with Porterfied pads and so have many other racers

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

no--its was just an incompatibility issue.
I was going to go with the hawk pads so i would never have this problem again--but i got a good deal on some cobalts--so i am headed that way.
OD