I would change/fix the exhaust then the fluid and see what happens. Also change the bushings like Don suggested. Video probably isn't helpful unless its the same track. My video is all from outside the car.

For the wheel spin try disconnecting the rear swaybar and let us know how that works.

When are you going back out ?

I also have an 04 transmission but once the 09 is legal I will probably change it out.

 

I posted the same time Don did. I 100% agree to take off the rear bar especially if you don't have a good front bar.

 

FWIW I did run Redline Heavyweight in my 1993 RX7 race car transmission and it did solve the exact problem you're trying to fix (not wanting to shift once hot).

However, the transmission in the 1993 RX7 is pretty different and I have never tried it in the RX-8. I've never had heat related transmission problems with my RX-8 in races that last under 30 minutes even in 100+ degree weather. However, the rear diff has been a little problematic... probably does need a cooler as some say.

 

It's a drilled OEM bar. I'll set it back to the OEM setting and see if that helps. The car is a blast to drive but would probably be faster with a little less O/S.

I'm planning for Gingerman on 8/18 for sure. There's Waterford on 7/25 but I'll have to make the car tighter before going back there - I'm not comfortable running there w/o aids and the stability/TCS kicks in way too much with the slight O/S setup. Note that the car pushed everywhere on the stock setup with Star Specs. Nelson on 7/21 is a possibility but I'm not so sure about safety there.

I was thinking for the future to try a big bar/soft spring setup. I know it works well on some pro cars, has anyone tried with the '8?

 

The tranny will survive without the cooler for sure...but after an hour or so it gets very heat soaked. I had a metal shift **** that was so hot without gloves I damn near burnt my hand in the paddock after I had taken off my gloves. I also melted one of the early types of shifter bushings from AxialFlow that wasn't as heat friendly as the new ones

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Actually I'm using Idumitsu right now, but I'm looking for a less expensive alternative.

Don, I'm curious, without the adapter, don't you run low on oil during longer races (Enduros)?? Also, do you do any premixing?

Stephen, STL requires smaller than 17x7 wheels. Uggg. All of my wheels are 17x9s. Can't even do ITR. I do have a set of 18x8s but no tires for that. So I'm running ITE. We'll be in the same run group, so I can still see where it winds up relatively speaking. It's funny that the wheels are the determining factor. I don't care about points or anything, just seat time in prep for my Nationals. I'm excited to see the differences between the organizations (For those who are reading this, I'm running my first SCCA race {I.T.SPEC*tacular} in a couple weeks. I've only raced NASA. Rule differences are interesting.)

 

After a 50 minute race we will be about 1/2quart low, which is fine. Enduros are no issue because we can only run about 58minutes before it runs out of gas, so we pit and add oil while adding fuel.

 

Ahhh, understand.

 

The Mother's Racing/ Davis Racing team out west does a lot of enduros including the 25 Hours of Thunderhill. They premix their fuel and eliminate the oil injection all together (They reroute the oil metering pump back into the oil pan).

However, as was said above, I don't think it would be too much of a pain to add extra oil at each fuel stop either...

 

Premixing is always an alternative. Locally, there have been some rulings against premixing violating the NASA rule against fuel additives. Not trying to bring that debate here, just saying.

 

I'd go for premix + omp. Drippling oil prevents seal chatter.

 

Why would you eliminate the oil injection all together, that makes no sense at all. Why wouldn't you just premix and leave the stock OMP system alone?

 

It was done in the old days when there was mechanical oil injection. I wouldn't do it today with electronic injection.

 

When you are running long races, you will burn out all the oil from the pan, starving the engine. It's not a problem with short 30-60 min races, but enduros (3+hrs) become a management problem. Sure you can fill the oil while fueling, but that is more time in the pit. So some racers put the oil in as premix, bypass the OMP and skip the need to fill.

 

Hey ive had the heavy shockproof for 4 months now no issues. Been doing some occasional street racing and drifting. Overall the shifting feels smoother when in operating temps. When cold is a bit stiffer i think. Gearbox does feel a bit hot when drifting though. How can i measure my tranny temps anyone knows?

 

Get a guage and have a tap made in the side of the case for its sender. You need clearance though so it's harder than I just made it sound Not something easy!

Stephen

 

Easy place if you have a stock drain plug is to drill and tap it for the sensor.

 

Need a custom one for the RX8 since it has a magnet. (Which shouldn't be that hard of a find) Also I don't think you have the room for the sender without affecting the internals but I may be wrong on that...

 

The magnet isn't really a problem...take it out. Or use the fill plug in the drain hole...and drill out the one without the magnet. There is room there for a typical sensor. I put mine in a stand alone hole on the passenger side...you do have limited places to stdrilland not be into the gears...not an easy diy for the typical home mechanic

 

Define "tracked". Are we talking car that is taken for a level 1 track day once every couple months, or are we talking a competition racecar or timetrial car being used under extremes.

Most front running spec miata racers change their diff fluid after every weekend. I dedicated race, I change mine after every two weekends. That is quite frequent and perhaps unnecessary. So style of use and time of use will dictate, IMHO.

 

My opinion, change it once midseason, and at end of season, before or during winter storage. Obviously then, if it's coming out dirty, change it more frequently. Adjust as you improve and push it harder.

You run at VIR alot? LOVE that track!

 

I ran PTD in March with NASA in March. Were you there?? It was the race with the Miata fiasco and the E30 hitting the tow vehicle.

75W90 would be fine for what you're doing. That's what I use. Just use that if you can't get the Shockproof. Or check out racerpartswholesale.com. They carry it and if you order enough stuff shipping is free.

 

Brief update:
Removed the cat. Forgot to put the midpipe-catback seal in...the car was so loud my ears would ring after a 15 minute, 4-6000 RPM commute with the windows up; never mind 7000+ RPM pulls. Now I understand why even rotary race cars have mufflers. Sound and smell levels are okay with seal back in. Car sounds like sh*t but shifter stays cool after high rpm runs. I should be receiving the tranny oil soon.

 

I race my car at some events with no muffler for weight savings. It's not that bad in the car with a helmet on. Other people hate me though.

 

Curious, what class do you run? Do you have a cat on? How do you tune the engine to run with and without the muffler, doesn't the back pressure changes affect your engine performance? Or do you change maps too?