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Cool. I don't have very good before/after measurements, but my estimate is that I got a little under 1 degree of camber from the lower offset bushings using s2 knuckles. I can't imagine getting an additional 2.5 degrees of camber mentioned in that parts spotlight. Maybe that needs both the offset bushings in combination...
Yes, that’s correct, I would have said around two deg total for both, but my offset LCA are different than what they’re selling. I took the original Speedsource delrin bushings and had offset inserts made for them, so the bushing itself is concentric. I feel like their design is better, especially the way the inserts work to stay aligned against suspension forces.
The type that Motorsport sells is an offset bushing with concentric insert, which it has to be drilled and pinned to avoid having the offset bushing move. The inserts are just thinwall sleeves; there’s nothing that prevents the bushings from grinding against the mounting tabs like the Speedsource design. They’re easier to make that way and less expensive though.
Couple of newb questions, I'll keep it brief. I just picked up an 04 with a fresh motor, looking to use it for HPDE and some canyon carving. Just had my shop install some Tein Flex Z coilovers. I know they're not as fancy as what most of you guys run but I don't want to dump thousands into a car I got for $2700.
With that said, do I need these bushings or can I get enough camber using the factory adjustments? Also will I regret it if I skip upgrading sway bars? I will likely run 200tw tires, no wider than 245-255, to save on consumable costs.
You can purchase competition parts only through Mazda Motorsports parts store. To get OE parts or full discount pricing you have to be a member, which requires submitting some results and photosb
Yell at me if this has already been done, but thought it might help some.
This is a quick and dirty method to obtain more neg.
Very low cost, minimal materials required and just a lathe and press for tools.
Some classes (in my area at least) require elastomeric bushes wherever used by the OEM so this meets that criteria.
The lower control arm front bush is pressed out of the LCA and drilled out in the lathe.
I used a 24mm drill as it was what I had.
Of course you could go a bit bigger but risk compromising the crush tubes strength.
Make an offset aluminium crush tube with the max offset to suit the size you drilled or bored the LCA bush.
Press in aluminium offset tube, then press the whole shebang back into the LCA.
This achieved 4.5mm offset from standard.
Changing from the OEM M14 bolt to an M10 WITHOUT this offset bush would not achieve quite as much, but close.
I think i'd be too timid to change to M8....
The offset bushes for the uprights gave 2.5mm offset by my measurement.
I will measure the UCA offset bushes when I have them apart next.
If i get to the aligners soon I will report the settings.
I just changed the rear of the front LCA bushes to offset ones so we will see this weekend how it goes with more castor.
Last time out tyre temps showed we need more neg so if necessary will change to an M10 and see how that goes.
Offset bush inside crush tube Offset bush inside crush tube #2
Last edited by mrbarry76; Nov 21, 2020 at 05:59 PM.
Reason: Clarity
based on the position it appears to be the lower arm, not seeing how that gets you any more over OE though, likely less than lockout plates with a smaller dismeter, high tensile bolt.
I’d estimate my Speedsource upper arm bushings modified to be offset gain more than that there.
there’s also the lower upright bushing too. I suppose you choose your method, can’t see needing all three though.
sorry, it was misstated; it shouldn’t be any more than adjusting it full out except you have no adjustment, so technically if you have the other two it’s about the same, more or less
No. It extends the lower control arm out 4.5mm further than possible standard and you retain full factory adjustment, just the adjustment range is shifted 4.5mm outboard.
It achieves more negative camber than standard and the effects of other mods such as the lower knuckle offset bush and upper arm offset bushes are cumulative - they all add up. It's not an either/or proposition.
It's a cheap alternative to the old Speedsource offset lower bushes which are hard to come by and in some classes not legal.
3.5 front camber 6 caster 3/32 total toe out
2.7 rear camber 1/8 total toe in
I ran this recently on 275/35r18 conti Ecs on a damp day that dried out though the session.
I only mention the tire because it was a lower grip situation. Handling was fairly neutral. Oversteer was controllable via the right foot, never surprising.
handling was the same in the dry on the federal slicks I run.
The car was way more predictable and easier to drive than my previous setups. I ran less camber and 0 toe in the rear before. I had delay full throttle on corner exits and hard braking and trail braking was a little sketchy, it was quick but hard to be consistently quick. Not confidence expiring at all.
So... If I am understanding this correctly, S2 uprights are slightly different providing a lower roll center and the ball joint tapers are different. They must be used with S2 LCA and UCA because of the ball joint taper. Correct?
How does one visually identify whether the parts on their S1 car are S1 or S2?
