it’s the power line to the pcm, that’s why it resets it when pulled the same as disconnecting the battery

you’ll need to restore that power input to the pcm otherwise it will appear to be dead.
.

 

see the room fuse at the top RH corner; that first wiring node after it runs back to the left side and down to the engine control system L/R wire node and also the instrument cluster a bit further below it, you’ll need a fused wire for the power source to replace it. It also provides power to the data link connector down at the bottom right side.

 

Thanks for the detail on the Room fuse, and suggestion @TeamRX8

I realized that I didn't have power on the downstream side of the Room fuse, but then applied that on the L/R line. After that, I did have power at the instrument cluster and the data link. To make sure though, I will need to verify that power is actually seen at the PCM.

 

I didn't really look over the marked up diagram you posted previously, but now see those were all left out. Well hope that does it for you.

 

FYI - this guy appears to have an ECU and is local:
https://www.rx8club.com/west-sale-wa...e-misc-271611/

I bought the driveshaft from you.

 

@gracer7-rx7 Thanks for the lead. I got no response from the poster, but besides that I'm pretty sure the PCM he had was for an AT car.

Update: I verified that the Room fuse, L/R line, is getting to the PCM pin, and that the two data lines, G/B and L/W, are also connected through to the PCM.
How sad is it that I know those wire colors by heart now?

My current task is to wire back in the wireless key module, and then plug in an ABS controller (I should have a spare around). With those items added, I should have everything on the CAN bus that was originally there. At that point - fingers crossed - I can get my OBD scanner to connect. Although I don't expect that those last missing puzzle pieces should be needed for the cheapo scanner to connect. Unless the immobilizer is stopping the PCM from responding (since the wireless key module was missing)

 

Next step success.
I added the wireless key module back into the harness, and plugged in a spare ABS controller. With all that back in, I was able to get my engine code scanner to connect from the OBD data port to the PCM. The initial connection gave a code indicating that lack of connection to the gauge cluster. I verified that the dash gauge cluster wasn't wired to the CAN bus. So, I added that back in, then connected again and had no codes.
So, this next weekend I'm taking the whole harness, and items to connect on the CAN bus, to the racetrack for my friend to try the Mazda programmer again.

 

progress at least, hope that goes well

 

Good luck with that. I remember the nightmare I had with a series 2 car. The can bus system in these cars are very complicated. Multiple systems utilize a single can bus line In the series 2. So the signals from the systems have to be coordinated in some way. We never figured it out and I cussed out every tree in the backyard!

 

I've been meaning to post an update on my build, but there hasn't been much progress.


Almost everything the CAN bus wants to see.

I tried several rounds with professional diagnostic techs and official Mazda programming equipment. We worked through various issues including having to add in a few components back into my harness, finding missing signal and grounds, before the network test would pass. However, in the end my PCM and the instrument cluster would not complete their communication messages between the two. So, even though the PCM passed the self test and indicated that it was okay, our best guess is that it got bricked (corrupted) at some point before I bought the car. As poorly as Racing Beat could describe the problem when they tried to flash it, we ended up with the same issue.

Fortunately, my engine builder had a parts car with the same PCM I needed. I plan to plug it into my harness and use my cheapo engine code scanner to verify that it communicates with the PCM, then read and clear any codes. Then I'm going to ship it off to Racing Beat for their full race tune for ported engines. That tune eliminate the immobilizer check, so hopefully I'll be good with that once it's back.

 

I hope you're not planning on porting the engine. That would be a good way to throw away power.

 

Well, I did mention that I planned to get the "tune for ported engines". My engine builder did some mild porting, mostly clean up and smoothing out. Definitely nothing close to a bridge port.

 

Catching up on previous work ...


The engine bay was so clean, I debated whether to leave it as is or to paint it.


I decided to go ahead and paint it. This would be the test for whether I would paint the roll cage and interior myself. First step was to scrape the excess calking from the seams and do general sanding/scuffing of the glossy surfaces.


After masking, was a full layer of primer.


Then a final two coats. The finish came out so good, that I decided to go ahead and tackle painting the cage and interior myself as well.


This is a shot showing the color better and how nice the job came out.

 

I thought it looked great pre-painted, but the end result looks awesome

 

That's unfortunate.

Engine bay looks great. I should probably do the same thing myself.

 

@John V Please educate me on the negatives of porting the Renesis engine, as I'm no where near a Renesis rotary expert. Perhaps links to relevant research, or experimentation with results would be best rather than side tracking this build thread.

 

My tuner has spent a lot of time working with various Renesis-powered race cars (some production based, but mostly prototype stuff, think Star Mazda chassis cars). Every single one that has had the ports "touched" or "cleaned up" by expert rotary builders has lost power compared to a blueprinted rebuild with stock ports. We talked about it at length before I committed to the MZR conversion on my car.

Sorry for the sidetrack.

 

i don't think my ported motor lost power over stock ports. dynoed 215 whp with exhaust, intake and ebay header. E85 and tuned on Versatuner. on a dyno that generally show 180-185 whp for a stock rx8 on pump gas. the porting might not make a ton of power, but i dont think it lost power.

 

Based on the data I've seen (and there is a lot of it), you'd be an outlier if you didn't lose power with porting.

 

glad it’s your waste of breath telling people that rather than mine for a change

 

Again I'm way behind in updates. So, here's a little catching up.

The replacement PCM was re-flashed by Racing Beat with no issue. They had it back to me in a matter of only a few days.
I grabbed a high pressure oil pressure regulator at the same time. I installed the regulator with the engine in the car. No issue with access, but the huge (1 1/4") jam nut was a PITA.

 

What do you think this represents?



The answer is ...

$202 and a true test of patience. A whole lot of patience. Serious patience.


My part order was confirmed on and my credit card was charged on April 19, 2020 (correction, NOT 2002).

230 days ( = 33 weeks = 7 1/2 months) later, the order finally arrive today.



There it is. From an RX8 Club sponsor no less.
You can bet that those stickers are not going to be found on anything that I value.



They are great parts that I'm happy to finally have, but this has been one of the worst "business" experiences that I have ever had.

 

I'm seeking ideas and suggestions.
I'm trying to decide where to locate my remote oil filter. The two yellow ovals are two options that I'm considering. Either would be below the frame rail, on the outer side of the stock under tray, and in front of the front wheel/tire.

Where else have you seen that worked well?

 

what exactly is it the you have; filter only or with an integral bypass?
.

 

I see that I haven't posted my oil plumbing in my own build. My previous related posts were in the thread on oil adapters.


I'm bypassing the stock oil filter tower


by using this direct port, returning oil through the rear endplate where the stock oil tower normally mounts.

So, the routing from the engine will looks similar to this. From the front of the engine forward the line routes will be at least partially different.

So, my remote filter will be filter only, bypassing the stock filter, but could have a bypass if built into the remote filter being used.