{WTB} Megan Racing Rear Lower Camber Arms
10-06-2013, 12:00 AM
#1
Megan Racing Rear Lower Camber Arms
Category: Steering & Suspension
Price: $1
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Part Fits (you may select multiples): Series I
Location (US State/Canada/Int): FL
Item Condition: Used
10-06-2013, 09:10 AM
#4
After a hard trackday running slicks I took the car in...and the camber and toe on the R side was quite a bit off. Noticed the camber arm wasn't straight anymore. Straightened it out...redid the alignment and after the next trip it was off again.....
And don't drop the car off the jack on them....that really bends them
And don't drop the car off the jack on them....that really bends them
10-06-2013, 11:31 AM
#8
1. Raise the ride height back up to where the suspension works properly. The camber curve gets fubar when it's that low.
2. Have a competent shop cut/shorten/weld the lower OE arms to get the static camber corrected.
Putting heim joints on a street car will just introduce you to another set of problems in the not so long run ...
2. Have a competent shop cut/shorten/weld the lower OE arms to get the static camber corrected.
Putting heim joints on a street car will just introduce you to another set of problems in the not so long run ...
10-06-2013, 06:16 PM
#12
my oem arms are fine... Out of curiosity, what issues are associated with heim style joints? And I havent read anything bad about the megan racing arms with the exception of the two of you coming in here commenting about their quality (or lack of)
10-06-2013, 06:38 PM
#13
I'm not commenting on their quality, just my experience with heim joints in general which are generally considered a high maintenance race only part
that said, if they bend just dropping the jack quickly they likely aren't going to last too long on the street without bending
if you modify the OE arms then they need to be welded by a competent TIG welder. My advice is to machine a steel plug that fits the ID of the tubular arm with the wall thickness on each side beveled to allow full penetration onto the steel plug when welding them back together. It will be much stronger this way.
well actually my advice is to raise the car, but I won't waste my breath any more on that ...
that said, if they bend just dropping the jack quickly they likely aren't going to last too long on the street without bending
if you modify the OE arms then they need to be welded by a competent TIG welder. My advice is to machine a steel plug that fits the ID of the tubular arm with the wall thickness on each side beveled to allow full penetration onto the steel plug when welding them back together. It will be much stronger this way.
well actually my advice is to raise the car, but I won't waste my breath any more on that ...
10-06-2013, 07:19 PM
#15
ive looked up the heim joints a bit, im going to keep reading... granted, i do 6000-7000 miles a year and in miami only ever see rain. ive never heard of them bending either, so thats a first.. ima keep google-ing the megan arms and heim joints before buying
10-07-2013, 07:17 AM
#18
yep, many racers don't run it that high on the rear
SpeedSource just cuts off the rubber bushing end from the rear OE arms and installs an adjustable heim joint with appropriate spacers there instead for their rear racing arms. There's nothing wrong with the OE ball joint at the spindle end.
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SpeedSource just cuts off the rubber bushing end from the rear OE arms and installs an adjustable heim joint with appropriate spacers there instead for their rear racing arms. There's nothing wrong with the OE ball joint at the spindle end.
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Last edited by TeamRX8; 10-07-2013 at 07:29 AM.
10-07-2013, 10:21 AM
#22
yep, many racers don't run it that high on the rear
SpeedSource just cuts off the rubber bushing end from the rear OE arms and installs an adjustable heim joint with appropriate spacers there instead for their rear racing arms. There's nothing wrong with the OE ball joint at the spindle end.
.
SpeedSource just cuts off the rubber bushing end from the rear OE arms and installs an adjustable heim joint with appropriate spacers there instead for their rear racing arms. There's nothing wrong with the OE ball joint at the spindle end.
.
https://www.speed-element.com/catalo..._5076_6719.jpg
Wouldnt thr speedsource heim joint be just as suseptible to wear and the enviornment as the megan? Please excuse my seeming "ignorance", im just trying to compare products to learn more about what would be the proper course of action for myself.
In my reading and searching, i also found rubber covers to protect the heim joints from the elements,not sure if thats a good idea for any option with heim joints, though it seemed like a good idea
10-07-2013, 11:54 AM
#23
yes, it was just an example, you already have my recommended opinions
quality heim joints cost $$$ and most companies will send you the low grade part, including SpeedSource. Regardless, they will ride rough and wear out quickly on the street compared to a factory part, which means they will get sloppy & rattle.
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quality heim joints cost $$$ and most companies will send you the low grade part, including SpeedSource. Regardless, they will ride rough and wear out quickly on the street compared to a factory part, which means they will get sloppy & rattle.
.