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The wait is legitimately killing me. Don't know the status more than" still working". Should be here by end of this week... i hope :/ So far, i am prepared for its return and stocked up on some oil Plan on changing it out 5 times within about 3k miles mainly because of how much bearing material was found at the bottom of the oil pan and in the old oil filter. Yup there was a ridiculous amount lol
FINALLY got my car back. 6-8 weeks turned into 15 weeks.....As my motto; cheap, quality, fast, you can only have two. I chose cheap and quality so this was not fast. Motor runs and idles perfectly, Doesn't fire up like a broken in motor with great compression... well because i only have 46 miles on this motor. Idles stably, No misfires, smooth ride. Only thing i noticed is, jerky access/decel when getting on and off the throttle instantly. Seems like the powertrain may need to break in the motor mounts and the engine re-learn its mapping? Maybe someone can shed some light. Rebuilder still does emphasize to stick with 5w20 with frequent oil changes etc. I was thinking for the first few k's use 10w40 GTX and then switch to a 5w40 or 0w40 not sure yet. Still need to hook up my gauges.... he was going to charge extra because he only charged for the gauge sensor install. No biggie, don't mind putting it together, although I'm still waiting on him to order in the nut/bolt for the sandwich plate adaptor.
Still need to fix my p/s, the codes that its throwing is b1342 and b2278. Measured the torque sensor 3 times, and all 3 times, the terminals measured out at about 13.8 ohms within the 12-15 ohm spec. Now i need to test the EPS module/replace it. Last thing i want to deal with is changing the rack :/. Guys wish my rex luck! I do need to get a 24mm and 23mm socket to change my transmission and differential fluid. Scared to change the diff fluid in fear the seal may start to leak like others have had issues with but i don't know, still probably going to change it. Pictures of the car will come, still cosmetically rough, the ugly plasti-dip is still partially peeled. I plan on keeping it on though this winter to protect the paint as much as i can. I will pay attention to detail later when the major issues are sorted out. Will Flush the 50/50 coolant thats in there for the FL-22 soon as well! Pictures of the previous Mazda reman will come in the next week or so. Reman at 16,800 and died at 102,040. There is still one useable housing with minimal shrinkage.
Edit: After the new harness, the b2278 code is not on, JUST the b1342 :/
Zip it! I also had to shrink my budget due to personal and school reasons so that would have been really tough. Maybe in the future i can afford a rebuild/engine service from him because he puts in ALOT of time and efforts and it clearly shows in his work lol
So over the past two days, up here in the north east Boston area, they've been over hyping this "tropical storm". I was prepared to let the car sit but Monday it was just windy until mid afternoon so i routed the gauge sensor wires. All i can say is, wow my back hurts and I'm only 21!! Routed the oil pressure and temp via the factory harness in the firewall, and the water temp via the taped oval hole next to the windshield washer as the wire would not reach the lotek gauge pod area. Got the wires there and wired them up, kind of a hassle because there were ALOT of wires, but i managed. The AEM gauges required a +12v constant, +12v Switched, Illumination, & Ground. For the 12v constant, went to AAP and did the fuse tap into the room fuse. 12v switched was the cigar lighter like everyone and the illumination i used the ashtray light. Now just waiting on my builder to install the sandwich plate and I will have all three of the gauges in!
Builder forgot to hook up the knock sensor... smh
Running catless
Little wire braiding
Merged all three wires together for all three gauges
How the car sits, Not sure why i took this pic because nothing changed on the exterior... yet
FINALLY have the interior complete except the gauges of course!
So far,the engine is running strong, 500 miles and I'm loving it! Interior is all together except the oil pressure and temp gauges. Waiting for the builder to get the bolt for the sandwich plate... what else is new? Anyways, car starts up hot and cold no issues, does take about 2 seconds on a hot start sometimes, i think its because the plugs must be fouled. The engine break in is really bothering me, I'm staying under 4k rpm and 1/2 throttle for the first 1k. Then over the next 1k bring it up in the rev range. Main reason I'm doing a break in is for the bearings to wear in nicely. Otherwise the break in would be done..... Done because new OEM rotor housings and OEM Seals.
Parts Used for the rebuild:
I just realized you put North East Boston area, I am from Southern NH and was up there visiting this past weekend. Flew into Logan (what a nightmare, LOL).
Glad the car is running good. Get that plastidip pulled off and get some more exterior pics! haha
I just realized you put North East Boston area, I am from Southern NH and was up there visiting this past weekend. Flew into Logan (what a nightmare, LOL).
Glad the car is running good. Get that plastidip pulled off and get some more exterior pics! haha
Woohoo a fellow new englander! So my first priority/priorities are tranny and diff fluid Change. Replace EPS module, never had PS but the cobb pulled the code b1342 which is the eps module. So i pulled the module last night and there was something shaking around, ill post a pic later!
Main reason i havent peeled off the platidip, i want to leave it on through the winter salt and snow and show off tr VR next year. Also my driver side fender has a paint blemish, needs to re painted
So my first priority/priorities are tranny and diff fluid Change. Replace EPS module, never had PS but the cobb pulled the code b1342 which is the eps module. So i pulled the module last night and there was something shaking around, ill post a pic later!
Well this is what came out. I don't think its serious but i do think there is reason to fault the EPS. I will try and get some time to check continuity but i did get a replacement in the mail from a working system!
These will be the internals that came out of my Mazda Reman. The Reman went in sometime 2006 at 16.8k & pulled at 102k so about 85k miles and about 4 other owners.... so this poor thing was abused before me!
E-Shaft: This rear rotor bearing, came out of the rotor and i think it friction welded itself to the shaft.
E-Shaft
Note: Bearing is stuck on the e-shaft pretty darn well!
ROTOR HOUSING (This one was where the rotor bearing pulled out and stuck itself on the shaft. Other housing is actually good condition)
Holy Chipping away!! Looks Re-useable!
Yup.. Pretty bad!
Also, Cracks on the plug hole, this is done!!
Chatter Chatter Chatter Chatter!
ROTORS:
Last edited by xKp5609x; 09-20-2016 at 07:52 AM.
Reason: Fixed Pictures
These Codes were pulled from the AP.
B2278: Torque Sensor (Solved by new harness!)
B1342: EPS Module. Rattling inside the module Seems it may have been impacted or something... Have a replacement on the way.
Transmission Fluid was WELL overdue, About 8mm of metallic junk on the magnet...
Differential Plug was heavy coated as well, not as much but still terribly overdue!
Overall Review:
Redline MT90 (Transmission) 75w90 (Differential): 10/10
These fluids, made a NIGHT AND DAY difference. Before there was so much transmission noise and well over a lot of powertrain noise. I knew it wasn't normal so this is why i rushed to do this asap, and boy, well overdue... The tranny fluid was like water, not slippery at all and just awful Overall, this will probably get another fluid change at about 15-20k or even sooner just to really make sure i get what ever wasn't caught by the magnet because it was full the next time around!
My trans/diff plugs looked the same, as did the oil, but I didnt notice much of a difference after the change.. but I do feel better now that it's done, haha.
My trans/diff plugs looked the same, as did the oil, but I didnt notice much of a difference after the change.. but I do feel better now that it's done, haha.
Really? Mine was noticeably quieter. Before it sounded like straight cut gears lol I just hope no major wear/damage happened but i never missed a shift or grinded while going into a gear. Weird thing i, i used a pump and transferred over the 2qts of MT90 and it still wasn't dripping out!! :sweat drop I was worried because i made sure i was on level ground. Left the car in neutral and it didnt roll a bit or anything. Strange because i see everyone saying the capacity is like 1.8qt and i know that much fluid was not left on the pump... (Clear tubes etc. )
Next on my "Restoration" of this poor baby is the EPS and plugs after 1k of the break in. I've been Pre-mixing heavy and so far its doing great :D
For the trans? Mine didn't drip out either (it did with the diff), same scenario, I just made sure to fill it to the recommended amount as I didn't want to risk overfilling.. I figured there could be a slight disruption in the car being level either from the jacks or the ground that wasn't really noticeable to the eye.. but enough that it was affecting that.
YES!! Finally, so i replaced the EPS Module, and viola! Boy this car just became 1000x more enjoyable! I can't wait to have somewhere or even time to drive her! Its so great to have power steering!
Nice job. I need some new sills. My driver's side is missing and my pass side is there although its curling up on the far sides ever so slightly. Looks good!
Nice job. I need some new sills. My driver's side is missing and my pass side is there although its curling up on the far sides ever so slightly. Looks good!
Yup it's a nice a subtle touch and i adds a lot for me :D
800 Mile Update:
This car only has 800 miles, so things still need to settle in. But I've been averaging 19.5 MPG each fill up!! Premixing heavily with motel 800v. I have yet to see the 710 fill up the MOP lines maybe because it hasn't really been driven under load much since fill up!
So far, 1,300 Miles on new motor! Just changed the oil with some more GTX 10W-40 and a purolator filter. Will be changing plugs and FINALLY using the compression tester at 2k miles!!
Average MPG (Since ownership): 15.36
Average MPG (New Motor): 17.4
Maybe im special.... maybe i have a faulty device... maybe i should have listened to 9krpm and gotten a new builder... Just a few hiccups that have me worried. Today was changing out the plugs at 1.8k miles on the new motor. While i was at it, i figured that i should put the compression tester to use! Followed the directions, threaded the transducer in the Trailing port and cranked. I believe i have a bad transducer OR controlling unit. After cranking for 4 seconds (Yes i was waiting to crank 5-7 seconds) the controller was throwing errors etc. as shown here....
What are those?!?! Do i have a defective unit?? Will contact twisted rotors!
so after finessing it for a few moments, i cranked again for about 3 seconds... and BAM results... VERY disappointing results but results non the less. These numbers to me seem VERY low and yes.... failing... Could anyone provide insight? Did my engine builder screw me? or did he just do a terrible job?
Front
Normalized
Rear
Normalized
Side note:
In the upper RPM's when brought to redline, misfired on new plugs... not sure what that is about. Also, some power loss was felt at about 7200RPM then a very rough feeling like a spun bearing and loud humming... Could i have spun a bearing? Drove the car home... still butter smooth until about 7k RPM don't want to keep bringing it up there in case something bad will happen :/
I did reach out to my builder to see whats up with these shitty #'s because with new apex seals and housings i'd expect great numbers but maybe he reused the side seals or something? I don't know... 9krpm i should have listened to you and found a new builder..... I just hope it lasts like 40k miles when i'm out of school and can afford another builder to dissect this thing. Also, SSV DOES rattle... when it was out, i checked it and it was clean but i didn't take it out... could that be causing something?
07-25-2016, 09:48 PM
Plan on changing it out 5 times within about 3k miles mainly because of how much bearing material was found at the bottom of the oil pan and in the old oil filter. Yup there was a ridiculous amount lol
Overall, this will probably get another fluid change at about 15-20k or even sooner just to really make sure i get what ever wasn't caught by the magnet because it was full the next time around!
I just hope no major wear/damage happened but i never missed a shift or grinded while going into a gear. Weird thing i, i used a pump and transferred over the 2qts of MT90 and it still wasn't dripping out!! :sweat drop I was worried because i made sure i was on level ground. Left the car in neutral and it didnt roll a bit or anything. Strange because i see everyone saying the capacity is like 1.8qt and i know that much fluid was not left on the pump... (Clear tubes etc. ) 
