Tein S Tech's...........
12-28-2007, 03:05 AM
#26
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Don: sorry I had to hijack your thread with this nonsense but I honestly feel that if you took 10 minutes to pre-load the springs you might see faster results. Just trying to help.
Obviously Project refuses to listen to me or anyone else on this forum who thinks it's a good idea. (despite it having worked for dozens of fellow forum members)
Obviously Project refuses to listen to me or anyone else on this forum who thinks it's a good idea. (despite it having worked for dozens of fellow forum members)
im not refusing i just don't see the point!!! how do you preload the rear if you can't get access to the bolts on the upper a-arms!! i could understand the front but the rear!! **** i guess you have the ******* lowest 8 on the forum because you decided to take 10 minutes of your time to preload lol.....lol...thats just funny to me!!
12-28-2007, 03:08 AM
#27
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HAHA!!!
Project; now you're just proving your inability to read. I never said you had to preload the rear; in fact it's actually impossible.
Project; now you're just proving your inability to read. I never said you had to preload the rear; in fact it's actually impossible.
12-28-2007, 03:10 AM
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12-28-2007, 03:11 AM
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Project: look at a stock ride RX-8.
Where is there bigger wheel gap? The front of the rear?
The rear will settle on its own, the front needs help eliminating that god awful gap that most owners hate. (hence why MOST people buy lowering springs; for the looks)
Where is there bigger wheel gap? The front of the rear?
The rear will settle on its own, the front needs help eliminating that god awful gap that most owners hate. (hence why MOST people buy lowering springs; for the looks)
12-28-2007, 03:15 AM
#31
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damn were just repeating things on this thread....obviously your not gonna change my mind about the preloading ****....and i really don't care but its my buddies car donjuan were talking about....eventually his car will get lower once it settles....i guess its gonna take time....i would like to see this preloading in person to actually believe it!!
12-28-2007, 03:17 AM
#32
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damn were just repeating things on this thread....obviously your not gonna change my mind about the preloading ****....and i really don't care but its my buddies car donjuan were talking about....eventually his car will get lower once it settles....i guess its gonna take time....i would like to see this preloading in person to actually believe it!!
Stop posting, stop arguing, and take 10 minutes to try it on Don's car.
Report back your findings.
12-28-2007, 03:17 AM
#33
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believe me i know how how a stock height rx8 looks like...it actually looks stupid...i'm not saying that preloading doesn't work...its just hard to believe when i have a buddie with tanabe gf's that didn't pre load and his car settled good withing 3-5 days....
12-28-2007, 03:18 AM
#34
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Direct from manufactuer: Racing Beat
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...prings+install
Not the same brand but deffinitly similar install.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...prings+install
One more item…. let me address an item that was brought up in a previous message.
Ride height drop – It is VERY important that the suspension components be tightened with the car on the ground – not suspended from a lift with the suspension at full droop. (Since the installation instructions were not supplied, it is logical that you were not aware of this step.) Step 8 from the installation instructions reads as follows:
“8. Reassemble the suspension in reverse order, with one exception! Do not fully tighten either of the upper A-frame inner ends, or the shock lower attachment bolt - just install the nuts “finger tight”! Lower the car to the ground and perform the final tightening after pushing down on the chassis to settle the car. This method of tightening is difficult but important - if you tighten the rubber bushings with the suspension in “droop”, the bushings can be over stressed and the ride height will be incorrect.”
If you have already installed the springs, simply loosen the attachment bolts and perform step 8.
Thanks again for the feedback, your comments are highly valued.
Jim Langer
Racing Beat, Inc.
Ride height drop – It is VERY important that the suspension components be tightened with the car on the ground – not suspended from a lift with the suspension at full droop. (Since the installation instructions were not supplied, it is logical that you were not aware of this step.) Step 8 from the installation instructions reads as follows:
“8. Reassemble the suspension in reverse order, with one exception! Do not fully tighten either of the upper A-frame inner ends, or the shock lower attachment bolt - just install the nuts “finger tight”! Lower the car to the ground and perform the final tightening after pushing down on the chassis to settle the car. This method of tightening is difficult but important - if you tighten the rubber bushings with the suspension in “droop”, the bushings can be over stressed and the ride height will be incorrect.”
If you have already installed the springs, simply loosen the attachment bolts and perform step 8.
Thanks again for the feedback, your comments are highly valued.
Jim Langer
Racing Beat, Inc.
12-28-2007, 03:18 AM
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the thing is im getting impatient with it not lowering.....it still seems high and if i can speed the process up ill do that i think, jedi do you have a link to what i need to do again please.........and what i exactly need to do it, like what tools etc ill do it and then finally end this ongoing debate...........
12-28-2007, 03:20 AM
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12-28-2007, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ProjectSE3P
im not saying that preloading doesn't work..
Originally Posted by ProjectSE3P
we can discuss that preloading bullshit your talking about!!
12-28-2007, 03:25 AM
#40
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WOW, there you have it Project. Jim Langer himself is telling us we need to preload.
Tomorrow morning, call Racing Beat's headquarters and tell them preloading is bullshit. Here's Jim Langer's phone number 714-779-8677
Tomorrow morning, call Racing Beat's headquarters and tell them preloading is bullshit. Here's Jim Langer's phone number 714-779-8677
12-28-2007, 03:27 AM
#41
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DonJuan
Turn your wheel completely to one direction. Get in there and loosen the two upper control arm bolts. (very easy to do, no need to go back to the shop) I think it's a 17 mm???
Loosen then 80% of the way, let sit for 30 minutes, retighten and BINGO, your car will lower slightly and the springs will settle within a few days / week depending on how much you drive. You'll need to go to the other side of the car, turn the wheel the other direction and repeat the previous step.
Here's a pic:
Turn your wheel completely to one direction. Get in there and loosen the two upper control arm bolts. (very easy to do, no need to go back to the shop) I think it's a 17 mm???
Loosen then 80% of the way, let sit for 30 minutes, retighten and BINGO, your car will lower slightly and the springs will settle within a few days / week depending on how much you drive. You'll need to go to the other side of the car, turn the wheel the other direction and repeat the previous step.
Here's a pic:
12-28-2007, 03:35 AM
#42
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Your car looks good donjuan. By the way i have RB springs, had Tein S, and I belive my car is lower then yours, for sure in the back.
The first image is with RB Srpings the second image is with Tein S-techs
The first image is with RB Srpings the second image is with Tein S-techs
12-28-2007, 03:38 AM
#43
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and lesper is riding on 19's so it's a pretty fair comparison to your car.
12-28-2007, 06:19 AM
#44
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Spring really don't "settle" anyway. If the control arms are tightened (to spec) while in the air, there's no reason the car should get any lower until the rubber bushings start to wear out, or if the bolts weren't tightened correctly. When I did mine, I had the car on jackstands. I installed all the springs and then preloaded them one at a time. I jacked each control arm until it lifted off the stand and the spring was supporting the weight of the car, and then tightened the bolts. My ride height came out perfect and my car has never gotten any lower.
Last edited by Whitehot; 12-28-2007 at 06:31 AM.
12-28-2007, 06:40 AM
#45
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Ride height also depends on what struts you have. We installed Koni yellows with Tein S-Tech in my friends WB 8. Here's a comparison photo to my OEM struts with Teins. He's much lower than I.
12-28-2007, 11:09 AM
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12-28-2007, 11:55 AM
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i, in my morning stupor, couldn't follow who was saying what, but whoever thinks that you shouldn't preload, or whatever you want to call it, it a bit too stubborn and ignorant. the op's car, although it looks good, is NOT lowered like it should if you have tein s. i have those same springs, and my is a lot lower, AND there is NO reason to let the front "settle", especially after a few hundred miles!!! if they were put on correctly, and the bolts were tightened with the car ON the ground, there is no need to let it settle, it "settles" right away. mine was done "settling" after the install, and it has NOT continued to drop a couple hundred miles after the install.
i had a similar fender gap up front after the shop did the install, b/c they tightened it all up on the lift, so i loosened those bolts like jedi posted, and the car immediately dropped, i had measurements -- before it only dropped 3/4 of an inch, and then the front dropped the other 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. the gap was gone within minutes. seriously, it's simple, takes only a few minutes, and it will give you the look/handling you were trying to get ... if you're willing to pay for springs, pay to get them installed (or take the time to do it yourself), why on earth would you not take the few minutes now to get it right? the op's fender gap is not consistent with tein s springs....
i had a similar fender gap up front after the shop did the install, b/c they tightened it all up on the lift, so i loosened those bolts like jedi posted, and the car immediately dropped, i had measurements -- before it only dropped 3/4 of an inch, and then the front dropped the other 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. the gap was gone within minutes. seriously, it's simple, takes only a few minutes, and it will give you the look/handling you were trying to get ... if you're willing to pay for springs, pay to get them installed (or take the time to do it yourself), why on earth would you not take the few minutes now to get it right? the op's fender gap is not consistent with tein s springs....
12-28-2007, 11:58 AM
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Every time I see a sexy WB I think, if only for a second, "would I have been better off with blue?"
Looks awesome Don. I like the symmetrical height, myself - mine's at that height permanently. Yours should settle a little more. Here's mine on 18s, tho this pic was w/in a week of install and it's settled (even with pre-load
) a little since then. Install was may 06, and the black on black + shadows makes the spacing a little tough to see clearly - but I think it's easy enough to see there's about the same amount of space between my tire & body as yours right now on 19s.
Looks awesome Don. I like the symmetrical height, myself - mine's at that height permanently. Yours should settle a little more. Here's mine on 18s, tho this pic was w/in a week of install and it's settled (even with pre-load
) a little since then. Install was may 06, and the black on black + shadows makes the spacing a little tough to see clearly - but I think it's easy enough to see there's about the same amount of space between my tire & body as yours right now on 19s.