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I completed installing gauges today after 3 partial days of work. The 3 installed are ProSpirt JDM water temperature, oil temperature, and oil pressure. Unfortunately the Lotek pod for installing cleanly above the radio is suitable for Series 1 only.
Installed the 3 included mounts on the radio top speaker cover. Progress with wiring
All done 😁
Another “benefit” to the Series 2 is where to install the oil temperature/pressure sensors? The off the shelf adapter plate is a no go. I decided to install them on the driver side oil cooler using drilled out Mazda banjo bolts. Had fun with my new tap set then shopping for an extension so the temperature probe didn’t block the opening. Wrapped the wires after installing to try protecting from spray.
My first round of drill/tapping worked - no leaks. Didn’t need the extra banjo bolt for screwed up spare.
One day I’d like to have a clean garage where all the tools can be mounted like my drill press.
Having fun with my new tap.
At least I got to use 1 factory item - the 34 mm water temperature sensor adapter. Still happy with the coolant system pressure tester. Helps push out the bubbles and give a bit of confidence holding 14psi for 15 minutes.
ProSport adapter was easy.
I changed the oil during this little exercise to 10w40 Dino. I wonder if my car has clogged arteries since under load pressure reads 135?!?! Both temperature readings are reasonable.
I managed to accomplish the impossible today! I changed the 8’s transmission fluid to the Red Line MT at work in a WHITE SHIRT! Not a drop on me.
Check this out! No oil anywhere.
I brought everything from home but, my coveralls. Had a minor skirmish with my stands because the shop floor slopes many directions. It took 4 tries to shim the stands so the car rested on all 4 stands and not 3.
Shifting is much smoother. The other Ford fluid I couldn’t get warm enough most times to get shifts to be smooth.
I had a good day working on the 8 at a friend’s house just like normal people. First time I’ve worked on cars with someone else in over 20 years - makes it more enjoyable.
We got started on his car with a rather strange issue and swapped cat backs on both cars. Other than the choke point at the aft end of the mid pipe the exhaust is now fully 3”. Will have an exhaust shop cut off and replace the choked pipe at the flange soon to eliminate that issue.
I managed to accomplish the impossible today! I changed the 8’s transmission fluid to the Red Line MT at work in a WHITE SHIRT! Not a drop on me.
Check this out! No oil anywhere.
I brought everything from home but, my coveralls. Had a minor skirmish with my stands because the shop floor slopes many directions. It took 4 tries to shim the stands so the car rested on all 4 stands and not 3.
Shifting is much smoother. The other Ford fluid I couldn’t get warm enough most times to get shifts to be smooth.
I call wizardry on doing fluid changes on your car and not getting yourself dirty.
But it is interesting that I am not the only one who didn't like the Ford XT-M5-QS stuff in S2. When I tried it, it started to grind the gears even with clutch to the floor after a year of spirited DD and a couple of AutoX events on it. When drained, it was very dark, and my buddy who was changing out the fluid even noted a burnt smell.
I considered Redline but in my Camaro I am sticking with Amsoil trans fluid since it works well. I also liked Amsoil trans fluid in my beater manual Accord I had in Alberta. Shifted smoothly and got ride of the 2-3 grind that I would have from time to time. In my S2, I switched to Motul Gear 300(which you can also use in diff because it's compatible with both GL-4 and GL-5) and that also worked better than the Ford stuff.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 08-10-2021 at 02:35 PM.
Well I was cocky yesterday and moved my car out of the driveway, promptly shutting it off cold. Then I did it AGAIN to bring it back in the driveway. The second shut down sounded funny.
Sure enough, this morning was not filled with joy. It took 40 minutes doing the deflood procedure (foot to the floor cranking) to bring the car to life. I may have to apologize to the neighbourhood (and my car) for revving the engine so early. Not everyone enjoys the sound of a mid pipe and an Agency Power cat back. Day got better on my drive to work - got a thumbs up from a young fellow who likes the car.
Meat Head, I never had trouble with flooding myself but I also don't think I tried two cold shut-offs in a row. I hope you have recharged the battery since cranking the car like that is going to be rough on it.
And when I move to greater Van, I will be sure to look out for a nice red R3!
After returning to my office after 2 weeks away working there was the somewhat expected surprise of flooded foot wells. Once again fired up the shop vac/bilge pump.
My weak theory water was coming in from the clips holding the roof rail cap was proven wrong after sealing them with windshield silicone with no difference. I washed the car and ran the hose over the roof/windshield to prove the cowling drains were clear. Then I ran the hose at the door seam and “bingo” there was the trouble.
Another search about leaking door seals this time pointed at water coming in from behind the speakers. When the door panel was off the left side I could see the water tracks.
Water on the shroud Water tracks Pooled water waiting to come inside
I followed Rotary Resurrection advice and made a curtain to deflect water past the speaker opening to the door drains.
Then came the tail light/fish bowl issue.
Just a wee bit of water
I ran a bead of silicone on the top seam and installed without over tightening this time (a common theme for me) so the gasket could work. We’ll see how this one works out.
Water tracks were also in the inside of the trunk at a weld area behind the light so out came the trusty clear windshield silicone. Hoping some of these issues are cleared up now. I expect to visit the tail light again.
Just regular maintenance today along with swapping to winter tires. Or should that be tyres since the Queen hangs on the wall at work? For the one time I get caught in snow per year these are worth it since I live at the top of a very steep hill. Last year the car was great in the snow.
I don’t notice the slow decline of idle smoothness until the MAF is cleaned. Nice to not have rpm hunting at traffic lights. Oil was only 3 months old (4 but, car was parked for 1 month) yet there is a 10 psi increase in pressure at idle after putting in fresh oil. I might start looking at pressure instead of time to trigger oil change intervals.
I had Nokian tires on my RX-8 before. They are good in snow, but not so great in rain and dry ground. I much preferred Michelin Crossclimate when it didn't snow, though when it did snow, it didn't perform as well. Oh well, not gonna bother with snow tires now. It just turns into bumper cars when it snows so I'd rather just not drive.
Interesting observation with oil pressure... What kind of oil are we talking about? Now that I have a stock oil pressure gauge, I will see if the oil pressure changes with the new oil. Mine is due soon, too. I used to just go with 5000 km on my S2 with Pennzoil conventional.
Edit: actually, my Camaro has a variable oil pump so the oil pressure change with fresh oil might not apply to me. First time I heard of that, though.
Hello Jinx,
I park when it snows as well. I did get caught out once last year when the forecast rain turned white. The snowies are not the best in the rain, but my all seasons are getting worn down. I started using 10w40 Dino the last 2 changes. Saw 28 psi before the change and 42 psi after once oil is up to temperature at idle. Around 130 psi at 4000 rpm and above. Still going through about 100ml per tank of gas. I stopped worrying the engine was going to have an aneurysm at 130 psi a while back. Installing the gauges was a good thing.
Hello Jinx,
I park when it snows as well. I did get caught out once last year when the forecast rain turned white. The snowies are not the best in the rain, but my all seasons are getting worn down. I started using 10w40 Dino the last 2 changes. Saw 28 psi before the change and 42 psi after once oil is up to temperature at idle. Around 130 psi at 4000 rpm and above. Still going through about 100ml per tank of gas. I stopped worrying the engine was going to have an aneurysm at 130 psi a while back. Installing the gauges was a good thing.
If you are not driving in the snow, I would get something more rain-oriented, like the Michelin Crossclimate I mentioned. Given it's Michelin, though, it's not gonna be cheap.
And that's a 50% increase at idle. That's interesting. I wouldn't expect the oil to change its viscosity that much as it ages. 130 psi is a lot, too, but maybe it's normal for an RX-8, I never installed an oil pressure gauge, so I wouldn't know. I just know the S1 has an oil pressure gauge but that thing was more like an idiot light.
Well I just opened a can of worms now. I placed my order for VersaTuner and the cable to start learning more about my car. This should be a fun adventure as I cautiously learn about tuning. Lots more reading in my future.
With great power comes great opportunity to screw up - VersaTuner noob
Personal Log Star Date 2021-336
My first run at VersaTuner just completed. I still have much to read before I step away from the canned tunes supplied with the software and masking MIL’s. Over Christmas break I will check on the MAF calibration as the next step. There’s probably not much gain to be had for the car. There’s much gain for me as I learn more about how the systems relate.
First run, backing up original parameters Loading the canned tune and masking MIL’s
Just some regular maintenance Monday - oil & filter, clean MAF, replace brakes, clean plugs. Got myself in a bother at one point thinking I cross threaded and stripped the leading rear plug but, all was ok.
Need to wait until my next EDO weekend to start the MAF calibration. The snow finally melted away with the heavy rain so the back roads are now clear. Also need to pick up a 12 to 110 volt power converter cause my old laptop battery is dead. I feel ok to log data on this power but, won’t flash anything unless the computer is powered from 110 at home.
And on that day ....you will realise the canned tunes aint worth a tin of ..........
On some turbo cars, it actually works fine. I have a buddy who got a Eurodyne tune for his GTI and it worked pretty well. Of course, a dyno session will fine tune it further to suit your particular car.
Curious how it will go for an NA car, though.
Originally Posted by Meat Head
Personal Log Star Date 2022-010
Just some regular maintenance Monday - oil & filter, clean MAF, replace brakes, clean plugs. Got myself in a bother at one point thinking I cross threaded and stripped the leading rear plug but, all was ok.
Need to wait until my next EDO weekend to start the MAF calibration. The snow finally melted away with the heavy rain so the back roads are now clear. Also need to pick up a 12 to 110 volt power converter cause my old laptop battery is dead. I feel ok to log data on this power but, won’t flash anything unless the computer is powered from 110 at home.
You need brakes already? At least I don't imagine the RX-8 brake parts costing too much. It helps when you do track days.
And yeah the snow was unexpected and I am glad it's over. It did also give me a little time to work on my Mazda 3.
You’re laying low on the site lately. Once this latest surge mellows out would like to meet up again (text you shortly). Too bad I got rid of the parts for my Mazda 3.
Who knows when the brakes were last done? I’ve had the car only 1 1/2 years. I’m not expecting much from tuning the car since it is NA. If I can get some improvements and knowledge I’ll be happy. Especially since I recently paid $2.01 per litre.
You’re laying low on the site lately. Once this latest surge mellows out would like to meet up again (text you shortly). Too bad I got rid of the parts for my Mazda 3.
Who knows when the brakes were last done? I’ve had the car only 1 1/2 years. I’m not expecting much from tuning the car since it is NA. If I can get some improvements and knowledge I’ll be happy. Especially since I recently paid $2.01 per litre.
Yeah I was, end of year got me kinda busy with family, work and car stuff.
I needed quite a few things for the 3 since a good friend is interested and if he gets it, I will make sure everything is working right. I doubt it's the usual stuff you keep around so no worries. Lots of odd fasteners and now I also have to contend with a leaking ABS pump. Fun. I will tackle that over this weekend.
A meetup would be nice when the weather mellows out, yeah.
What kind of brake pads and rotors did you get?
I am enjoying only needing regular gas for the moment. While the 2.3 MZR is not exactly a gas sipper, it certainly is better than a Renesis and a V8. That will change in a couple of months, though. Gas is pretty ridiculous here now.
There was an actual sunny day when I had no chores to complete other than picking my daughter up from work. Started logging data to check on MAF calibration which I need to repeat (did the gradual increments wrong). Just when I finished the local constabulary arrived in the area. The wide open throttle part of logging worked okay (on the freeway) and more fun cause my daughter was pushing the space bar (start/stop record). Might get a chance to do the needed repeat tomorrow afternoon. Data entry in the excel spreadsheet is rather tedious. The fun part is slowly understanding the relationships between recorded values. After all, this was the true reason for getting tuning software for my NA car - learning.
Over the past week I managed to complete a few chores and give the 8 a good look after winter. The usual oil and filter change was followed by the discovery the oil temperature sensor had vibrated loose. Oil consumption wasn’t that high, the sensor had backed out of the oil cooler banjo bolt. A nice steady dribble over a few days. Nice mess of congealed oil and road grit on the underside plastic pan. Got it all clean so tech inspection next weekend doesn’t flag me. I want to thank someone out there for the oil cooler fin straightening tip - use a zip tie. Zip ties are much faster than my previous watch maker flat screw driver method and more gentle as well.
My first brake system flush in decades was done with the help of a handy vacuum pump. Where were these things when I was kid/young guy? I was reminiscing about the “ push, hold, release, arg you let up and sucked air” routine. Far easier with the pump and can flush the lines solo. Made it to and from work with a pristine bumper so evidently there’s no air in the lines.
This weekend should see the installation of the right side tail light. I just bought a pair from someone on the Facebook (olde guy speak). They need a little work since the wiring was modified to install on a series 1. The lenses are good and the price was great.
Nasty looking old brake fluid. I want to say the pedal feels better to validate my efforts.
06-26-2021, 03:28 PM
