RX8 Start / Stop Procedure video
10-17-2012, 06:33 PM
#1
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RX8 Start / Stop Procedure video
Hello,
I apologize if this has already been asked, but does the video below show the correct way of starting and turning off an RX8?
Thanks!
I apologize if this has already been asked, but does the video below show the correct way of starting and turning off an RX8?
Thanks!
10-17-2012, 07:12 PM
#2
Voids warranties
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...t-here-202454/
Post #6 gets into it. I suggest reading the whole thread though, Lots of great info!
Post #6 gets into it. I suggest reading the whole thread though, Lots of great info!
10-17-2012, 07:13 PM
#3
No.
You should not rev the engine while it is ice cold. Let it idle until the temp comes up, think about it, the oil is cold and you are revving up the engine?
It has been covered here many times, there is no need to rev the engine and cut the ignition.
The only thing you should never do, is turn off a cold engine moments after starting... i.e. moving it out to the driveway or out of another cars way.
Then the car should be left running until it is up to temp.
My suggestion, if you have to move the car out of the way, let it idle a few, then drive it around the block before turning it off, the engine should reach normal operating temperature before shutting back down.
You should not rev the engine while it is ice cold. Let it idle until the temp comes up, think about it, the oil is cold and you are revving up the engine?
It has been covered here many times, there is no need to rev the engine and cut the ignition.
The only thing you should never do, is turn off a cold engine moments after starting... i.e. moving it out to the driveway or out of another cars way.
Then the car should be left running until it is up to temp.
My suggestion, if you have to move the car out of the way, let it idle a few, then drive it around the block before turning it off, the engine should reach normal operating temperature before shutting back down.
10-17-2012, 08:01 PM
#6
No.
You should not rev the engine while it is ice cold. Let it idle until the temp comes up, think about it, the oil is cold and you are revving up the engine?
It has been covered here many times, there is no need to rev the engine and cut the ignition.
The only thing you should never do, is turn off a cold engine moments after starting... i.e. moving it out to the driveway or out of another cars way.
Then the car should be left running until it is up to temp.
My suggestion, if you have to move the car out of the way, let it idle a few, then drive it around the block before turning it off, the engine should reach normal operating temperature before shutting back down.
You should not rev the engine while it is ice cold. Let it idle until the temp comes up, think about it, the oil is cold and you are revving up the engine?
It has been covered here many times, there is no need to rev the engine and cut the ignition.
The only thing you should never do, is turn off a cold engine moments after starting... i.e. moving it out to the driveway or out of another cars way.
Then the car should be left running until it is up to temp.
My suggestion, if you have to move the car out of the way, let it idle a few, then drive it around the block before turning it off, the engine should reach normal operating temperature before shutting back down.
You shouldn't rev the engine that is true, but it's the same rule for any type of engines.
and if your car is operating correctly, all updates applied, you don't even need to worry about flooding. my car never flood even when it's dead cold out there, yeah, talking about 15 degrees kind of cold. I just move it out of my garage and shut it off. countless times, WHAT FLOODING?
Neither did the S1, people panic over everything. and the problem is people's car had problems in the first place/did not apply at LEAST MSP16 update. which changes the ignition timming for certain cold conditions and plugs firing order (A bit)
Last edited by nycgps; 10-17-2012 at 08:04 PM.
10-17-2012, 08:08 PM
#7
Unless you are at some "dead cold" area with straight 50 wt oil. most good oil, at least lets say 5/10wSOMETHING will be able to handle the task, even when it's cold.
You shouldn't rev the engine that is true, but it's the same rule for any type of engines.
and if your car is operating correctly, all updates applied, you don't even need to worry about flooding. my car never flood even when it's dead cold out there, yeah, talking about 15 degrees kind of cold with 10w40 oil.
)
You shouldn't rev the engine that is true, but it's the same rule for any type of engines.
and if your car is operating correctly, all updates applied, you don't even need to worry about flooding. my car never flood even when it's dead cold out there, yeah, talking about 15 degrees kind of cold with 10w40 oil.
)
You take that chance I am not going to.
I let it do what it is supposed to do at startup, whatever RPM the computer puts it at RPM wise in the first moments is where its at, I never step on the throttle in an attempt to rise RPM's.
Cold starts are where most of the wear happens on any engine, revving up the engine when it is cold is not a good idea, no matter what weight oil you have.
The colder the morning the longer I let it sit at idle before driving.
I am in Florida, cold mornings are not common, I had a place in North Carolina and I go up there frequently. (in 2 weeks again as a matter of fact) and I always let my cars warm up well before driving them.
I am a fanatic about taking good care of them, but I also drive the wheels off of them too. They do not get babied and they do not get abused.
10-18-2012, 07:36 AM
#8
You take that chance I am not going to.
I let it do what it is supposed to do at startup, whatever RPM the computer puts it at RPM wise in the first moments is where its at, I never step on the throttle in an attempt to rise RPM's.
Cold starts are where most of the wear happens on any engine, revving up the engine when it is cold is not a good idea, no matter what weight oil you have.
The colder the morning the longer I let it sit at idle before driving.
I am in Florida, cold mornings are not common, I had a place in North Carolina and I go up there frequently. (in 2 weeks again as a matter of fact) and I always let my cars warm up well before driving them.
I am a fanatic about taking good care of them, but I also drive the wheels off of them too. They do not get babied and they do not get abused.
I let it do what it is supposed to do at startup, whatever RPM the computer puts it at RPM wise in the first moments is where its at, I never step on the throttle in an attempt to rise RPM's.
Cold starts are where most of the wear happens on any engine, revving up the engine when it is cold is not a good idea, no matter what weight oil you have.
The colder the morning the longer I let it sit at idle before driving.
I am in Florida, cold mornings are not common, I had a place in North Carolina and I go up there frequently. (in 2 weeks again as a matter of fact) and I always let my cars warm up well before driving them.
I am a fanatic about taking good care of them, but I also drive the wheels off of them too. They do not get babied and they do not get abused.
you are being paranoid, like i said, as long as u keep everything up to date there is nothing to worry about
not asking u to drive the **** out of it right after startup, but there is no need to do whatever you said(nor the stuff in the video)
10-18-2012, 04:14 PM
#9
European livin n ohio
Start the car, buckle your seatbelt, take a sip of coke, light a marlboro, find favorite iron maiden song, drive away... Keep revs under 4k until warm, skip back to favorite iron maiden song, turn up volume, rev to 8.5/9k while driving, grin like crazy, drive past work for another block of fun.
10-18-2012, 06:14 PM
#11
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
I keep hearing and reading about those kind of stuffs, and yet, mine never flooded, even one time I accidentally turned off the engine when the gauge is still not in it's normal running temperature, then I turned it on again, and it started right away.
10-18-2012, 07:17 PM
#12
Start the car, buckle your seatbelt, take a sip of coke, light a marlboro, find favorite iron maiden song, drive away... Keep revs under 4k until warm, skip back to favorite iron maiden song, turn up volume, rev to 8.5/9k while driving, grin like crazy, drive past work for another block of fun.
10-18-2012, 07:23 PM
#13
Tried it once when I first purchased my car at 24k miles to check ignition (Mazda USA already informed me I had MSP16). Started right up so now I do it frequently and never once a flood problem.
10-18-2012, 07:55 PM
#14
you know that most wear happens when idle right?
you are being paranoid, like i said, as long as u keep everything up to date there is nothing to worry about
not asking u to drive the **** out of it right after startup, but there is no need to do whatever you said(nor the stuff in the video)
you are being paranoid, like i said, as long as u keep everything up to date there is nothing to worry about
not asking u to drive the **** out of it right after startup, but there is no need to do whatever you said(nor the stuff in the video)
Most wear happens the moment you crank your starter and the moments it takes for the oil pressure to rise then get to temperature where it starts doing its job the best.
Revving up the engine any more than the choke and ECU does itself is adding to the problem.
Chew on this: Why do Taxi's and Tractor Trailer Trucks run for 500K to 1 million miles without a rebuild?
They rarely turn off their engines and (gasp) they idle a lot.
Last edited by Jims5543; 10-18-2012 at 08:03 PM.
10-20-2012, 12:40 PM
#15
I guess we will agree to disagree.
Most wear happens the moment you crank your starter and the moments it takes for the oil pressure to rise then get to temperature where it starts doing its job the best.
Revving up the engine any more than the choke and ECU does itself is adding to the problem.
Chew on this: Why do Taxi's and Tractor Trailer Trucks run for 500K to 1 million miles without a rebuild?
They rarely turn off their engines and (gasp) they idle a lot.
Most wear happens the moment you crank your starter and the moments it takes for the oil pressure to rise then get to temperature where it starts doing its job the best.
Revving up the engine any more than the choke and ECU does itself is adding to the problem.
Chew on this: Why do Taxi's and Tractor Trailer Trucks run for 500K to 1 million miles without a rebuild?
They rarely turn off their engines and (gasp) they idle a lot.
And no, most of them goes dead before 150k, some are more some are less.so chew on WHAT again?
The problem is the oil we use these days are garbage and they dont do their.job properly. This is why i still prefer sl oil over sm and sn
As for trailers, they spent most of its life.on freeways, its know fact that highway miles is better than local roads miles, cuz there is almost no idling
Last edited by nycgps; 10-20-2012 at 12:47 PM.
10-20-2012, 01:43 PM
#16
European livin n ohio
The reason semis go so far has nothing to do with idling or long highway runs. It's a diesel. We shift between 1200 and 1800 rpm. Less revolutions is longer life.
10-20-2012, 07:16 PM
#18
Registered
Speaking of diesels...and back on topic for this thread...what's with the 5 second delay between switch on and cranking? Does the guy think he's driving a diesel? One more nail in that video's coffin.
Ken
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