When does the RX-8 really start pulling in normal driving condition trying to pass...
#1
When does the RX-8 really start pulling in normal driving condition trying to pass...
When does the RX-8 really start pulling in normal driving condition trying to pass or entering the freeway?
Now like you know this is not a problem near and around 7k-9k, but under that (and I haven't tried this because the saleman in the passenger seat) you would down shift to make it pick up speed. I've heard that down shifting the RX-8 from 5th to 4th under 5k-6k will not produce more speed. Should I skip 4th and double clucht to 3rd???
I know that entering the expressway with a full blast of speed 7k-9k rpms 60-80mph or more is not a problem, but what happens when you are sitting with cars behind you and a packed highway with little gap for entry?? Will 1st or 2nd 3k-4k get you there or would you hold 1st until 6k then shift to 2nd? Thats sounds abusive for a normal car but the Honda S2000 and RX-8 aren't normal cars with 8k and 9k rpm redlines.
I got to get rid of that weight in the passenger seat to see for myself.
Now like you know this is not a problem near and around 7k-9k, but under that (and I haven't tried this because the saleman in the passenger seat) you would down shift to make it pick up speed. I've heard that down shifting the RX-8 from 5th to 4th under 5k-6k will not produce more speed. Should I skip 4th and double clucht to 3rd???
I know that entering the expressway with a full blast of speed 7k-9k rpms 60-80mph or more is not a problem, but what happens when you are sitting with cars behind you and a packed highway with little gap for entry?? Will 1st or 2nd 3k-4k get you there or would you hold 1st until 6k then shift to 2nd? Thats sounds abusive for a normal car but the Honda S2000 and RX-8 aren't normal cars with 8k and 9k rpm redlines.
I got to get rid of that weight in the passenger seat to see for myself.
Last edited by donack456; 05-11-2007 at 03:34 PM.
#2
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If I am rolling between 10 and 20 in traffic I typically just keep it in 2nd. IMO downshifting to 4th is pointless. downshifting to 3rd is far better and if you are within limits just go to second to have some fun
#3
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#7
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you want to double-clutch to 3rd (if from 6th to 5th) and it will haul major *** all the way to 93mph, when you hit the fuel cut.
4th pulls above 5500rpm, but not as hard. and not as satisfying.
Ike, you want to double-clutch because the RPMs difference is quite great. Esp. 6th to 3rd. If you just try to put it into 3rd directly, there's a lot of resistance due to synchros spinning up so much and it doesn't feel good/right. If you double-clutch, it slides right in like buttah!
4th pulls above 5500rpm, but not as hard. and not as satisfying.
Ike, you want to double-clutch because the RPMs difference is quite great. Esp. 6th to 3rd. If you just try to put it into 3rd directly, there's a lot of resistance due to synchros spinning up so much and it doesn't feel good/right. If you double-clutch, it slides right in like buttah!
#12
Shock and Awe
Yeah, I guess to answer his actual question, I would leave it in 1st if I am crawling through traffic (below 15mph) and anticipating to sneak into another lane in a hurry. If I was going to stay in my lane and crawling along, I would probably be in 2nd.
#13
Depending on the conditions, if I need to pass fast, I drop it to 3rd and by the time I hit the top of 3rd I am doing 90 and it is time to slow back down. (btw this is on the highway)
#14
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How about, "something I need to get around to learning how to do."
Rev matching is something else.
I might get this wrong, so please someone correct me if that's so.
E - C - T - W
This a diagram of your powertrain. E for engine, C for Clutch, T for Transmission, and W for wheels.
Rev matching is changing the speed of the engine. Visually:
(E) - C - T - W
Double clutching is matching the speed of the shaft between the clutch and the transmission:
E - C (-) T - W
Rev matching is something else.
I might get this wrong, so please someone correct me if that's so.
E - C - T - W
This a diagram of your powertrain. E for engine, C for Clutch, T for Transmission, and W for wheels.
Rev matching is changing the speed of the engine. Visually:
(E) - C - T - W
Double clutching is matching the speed of the shaft between the clutch and the transmission:
E - C (-) T - W
Last edited by SmokeyTheBalrog; 05-11-2007 at 05:51 PM.
#15
Dude...you want me to get all algebraic on yo bizazz!! I'll bust outa muh slide ruler!! No one can out complicate a simple question like I can!!
Werup, thats fo realz yo home skillet...
Werup, thats fo realz yo home skillet...
#16
Stuck in a love triangle
It is kind of embarrassing at times when you are in the wrong/slow lane in a 30mph street and have no choice but to make a bunch of noise and floor the pedal just to get enough power out of the engine for a mere lane change. But I've come to accept it after 4 years.
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Double clutching is pointless.
If you are in 5th or 6th and want to downshift to 3rd, just give it some gas to bring the revs up. Goes in smooth, comes out strong.
If you are in 5th or 6th and want to downshift to 3rd, just give it some gas to bring the revs up. Goes in smooth, comes out strong.
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That's what I do. Though I kinda would like to practice double clutching at some point to see if it actually does anything.
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you want to double-clutch to 3rd (if from 6th to 5th) and it will haul major *** all the way to 93mph, when you hit the fuel cut.
4th pulls above 5500rpm, but not as hard. and not as satisfying.
Ike, you want to double-clutch because the RPMs difference is quite great. Esp. 6th to 3rd. If you just try to put it into 3rd directly, there's a lot of resistance due to synchros spinning up so much and it doesn't feel good/right. If you double-clutch, it slides right in like buttah!
4th pulls above 5500rpm, but not as hard. and not as satisfying.
Ike, you want to double-clutch because the RPMs difference is quite great. Esp. 6th to 3rd. If you just try to put it into 3rd directly, there's a lot of resistance due to synchros spinning up so much and it doesn't feel good/right. If you double-clutch, it slides right in like buttah!
#22
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Hm, theoretically if the cars on the freeway are moving around 74 mph, there's no problem staying in 6th gear and overtaking them around 83 mph range.
If leaving a 65 mph freeway but merging onto a freeway where the cars are doing 77 mph, it's enough to shift from 6 to 5th gear to pick up speed. Needing 3rd gear is really only for emergencies, which I can avoid for the most part by proper use of timing and situational awareness combined with familiarity with the road I'm on to plan the entries and exits.
If you're merging onto the freeway, and the lane you're in is stopped cold, and the lane to the left is moving 65 mph, you should wait until your lane starts picking up speed and the cars start spreading out a bit. I have used 1st gear before and taken it to redline in this situation once, but avoid that because no one on the road realizes just how fast I'm going to accelerate and if they cut in front of me at a bad time I'm done for.
The more upright the posture, the worse the driver side blindspot is. I find it quicker to stick my head out the window than to squint through two small areas of glass and figure out if a car is there when changing into the left lane.
It's hard to tell what you mean by packed freeway conditions.
This morning I needed to exit within 3/4 mile, but I had stayed towards the left lane because there were no large openings in the traffic. I was running late and it was around 5:30 AM already so traffic was pretty thick by then. In that situation I started signaling, and either sped up as necessary or better yet I might have slowed down to make the change (don't remember). 4th gear would be enough to speed up in that situation... 3rd gear would have been overkill as it wasn't an emergency.
If leaving a 65 mph freeway but merging onto a freeway where the cars are doing 77 mph, it's enough to shift from 6 to 5th gear to pick up speed. Needing 3rd gear is really only for emergencies, which I can avoid for the most part by proper use of timing and situational awareness combined with familiarity with the road I'm on to plan the entries and exits.
If you're merging onto the freeway, and the lane you're in is stopped cold, and the lane to the left is moving 65 mph, you should wait until your lane starts picking up speed and the cars start spreading out a bit. I have used 1st gear before and taken it to redline in this situation once, but avoid that because no one on the road realizes just how fast I'm going to accelerate and if they cut in front of me at a bad time I'm done for.
The more upright the posture, the worse the driver side blindspot is. I find it quicker to stick my head out the window than to squint through two small areas of glass and figure out if a car is there when changing into the left lane.
It's hard to tell what you mean by packed freeway conditions.
This morning I needed to exit within 3/4 mile, but I had stayed towards the left lane because there were no large openings in the traffic. I was running late and it was around 5:30 AM already so traffic was pretty thick by then. In that situation I started signaling, and either sped up as necessary or better yet I might have slowed down to make the change (don't remember). 4th gear would be enough to speed up in that situation... 3rd gear would have been overkill as it wasn't an emergency.
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Double clutching is absolutely not useless in modern cars. Simply rev matching does nothing to accelerate the input shaft of the transmission leaving the synchros to do the work. It does offer some benefits in that the clutch takes less of a beating when you come off it. Matching revs while in neutral with your foot OFF THE CLUTCH PEDAL, will spool up the input shaft of the gear box and saves wear and tear on the clutch and other driveline components.
There are plenty of threads on this forum complaining about issues with synchros and the resultant grinding. Many (not neccessarily all) of these issues are a result of excessive wear on the synchros from downshifting with big gaps in the RPM ranges between the two gears. Had these operaters correctly performed a well timed (ie slow and precise) double de-clutched, rev matched (and if braking heel-toe'd) downshifts, these problems could be avoided.
Its not at all hard to do, it just takes a little practice. Its very rewarding and it allows you to grab gears easily without putting excessive wear and tear on the car. Furthermore, I'm sure all the people on this forum with road racing experience can tell you what happens when you really botch a downshift in a RWD car: Rear wheel lock up and insta-spin! There's a reason that any credible racing school will spend time teaching there students how to heel toe and double clutch. Its a track necessity, and very much worthwhile on the street.
There are plenty of threads on this forum complaining about issues with synchros and the resultant grinding. Many (not neccessarily all) of these issues are a result of excessive wear on the synchros from downshifting with big gaps in the RPM ranges between the two gears. Had these operaters correctly performed a well timed (ie slow and precise) double de-clutched, rev matched (and if braking heel-toe'd) downshifts, these problems could be avoided.
Its not at all hard to do, it just takes a little practice. Its very rewarding and it allows you to grab gears easily without putting excessive wear and tear on the car. Furthermore, I'm sure all the people on this forum with road racing experience can tell you what happens when you really botch a downshift in a RWD car: Rear wheel lock up and insta-spin! There's a reason that any credible racing school will spend time teaching there students how to heel toe and double clutch. Its a track necessity, and very much worthwhile on the street.