Peakster

Hi all. I will hit 99,000 miles on my way home today. Time for an oil change... and what else? The manual does not go that high. Should I just have them do everything that is done for a 30,000 mile service?
I am not going to a dealer so as not to get gouged. I will take a list of services that need to be performed to a garage.
Car is still running great.
Thanks.

gwilliams6

what year is your car? If it is still under the 8 yr/100,000 engine block warranty then by all means quickly get a rotary compression test and see if your engine might be failing and qualify for a reman replacement. If the car is already more than eight years old then it is too late for any warranty on the engine.

Just look in the book at your service schedule and look at the mileage interval for each major item, then just add up the miles and continue to do the proper maintenance on that schedule . It is probably time for new coils, wires (oem replace every 30,000 miles) and plugs (every 15,000 miles or so). Do a tire rotation if not done in the past 5000 miles .Check your brakes,hoses, battery,filters etc. My Mazda dealer checks all that as a no-charge item with any oil change, and I get a printout. Your cat might also need to be checked if it is original. I did replace all my fluids, brake, diff, tranny, and coolant at 30,000-40,000 miles. But realistically if there are no red flags, and you are not having any major issues don't panic with hitting 99,000 miles.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The maintenance list in the manual ignores a lot of critical stuff. In addition to the important items in the manual, this is what I recommend for the long term maintenance items:

At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.

Peakster

Good list, thanks, and very realistic. I have had 2 things go wrong ever with my 2004 (no engine warranty anymore): 1) the clutch pedal bracket and 2) the O2 sensor!

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

RIWWP I was thinking over the maintenance list…I would also add decarboning the engine at 60,000 and 100,000 miles. I am aware of all the skepticism around decarboning the engine, but obviously I am among the proponents of this process

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I agree as to the value as well, though i hesitate adding it to the list until there is more community support for how to do it properly. Currently, the popular decarb methods don't do jack inside the engine, which is where most of the skepticsm comes from, and I don't want to imply that I am a proponent of those.

There is also a lot more testing that I'd like to do, I just don't have an RX-8 available to do those tests on

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

^I have followed your thread on the different methods. If you need a car to do more testing you can use mine)) I am getting close at 90,000 miles where I plan to decarbon the engine...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If you are serious, then once my MSM gets back on the road (next few days hopefully), we can figure out a weekend day to do some of it, I'm about 2hrs north of you. There isn't a "too early" time to decarb imo.

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

^pm'd you

Airtraffic

How do you clean the ESS and reset the profile?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The ESS is just a plastic covered electromagnet. You can wipe it off with a rag.

To reset it, you turn the ignition key from "off" to "on" (not "start"), and within 8 seconds of it being turned to on, you need to press the brake pedal 20 times (so rapidly, just needs enough to trigger the brake lights). The oil pressure gauge will sweep to the right and then back to the left, indicating that the NVRAM has been reset.