What did you do with your RX8 today?
#3376
Registered
iTrader: (25)
Seems surprising for an S2 pump. If it were an S1 I recommend replacing it now. For an S2 I’d recommend replacing the internal filter assembly which includes the main body & siphon. Someone else had an issue recently on an S2 pump and it was the internal filter (not the sock filter on the bottom inlet). That seems like the most likely suspect. If it turns out to be the pump you can get an aftermarket one like the Derstchwerks DW65C and it drops right in. You’d basically have a new pump assy with slightly higher flow capability for less than a new one from Mazda.
There are no S2 main fuel pump filter assemblies in stock in the US though. They are all on BO from Japan, but seem to come over without too much delay (waiting for one myself just to keep on the shelf). Maxmart will get you one. See my S2 pump thread in the S2 tech forum for more info.
There are no S2 main fuel pump filter assemblies in stock in the US though. They are all on BO from Japan, but seem to come over without too much delay (waiting for one myself just to keep on the shelf). Maxmart will get you one. See my S2 pump thread in the S2 tech forum for more info.
The following 3 users liked this post by TeamRX8:
#3377
ECU replacement
Hi
can the REMANUFACTURED ECU
Part Number: N3ZD18881R0J
fit in my 04 mt 6 speed rx8 with an ecu part number n3h618881m?
can the REMANUFACTURED ECU
Part Number: N3ZD18881R0J
fit in my 04 mt 6 speed rx8 with an ecu part number n3h618881m?
#3378
Registered
I filled the crack in the passenger airbag cover. Doesn't look much better than before. I never realized how big the crack was until I took the cover out, it was close to 1/8".
Repair attempt #2 will come after xmas and I think will have better results.
Repair attempt #2 will come after xmas and I think will have better results.
The following users liked this post:
Kamal El (01-17-2018)
#3379
What am I doing here?
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
Posts: 3,606
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Isn't there a guy selling new airbag covers?
I finally figured out the source of my slow starter after battery relocation. I made a bracket to hold a set of +/- posts in the engine bay where the battery used to sit. I tied the battery cable from the trunk into the existing factory wiring harness in there. I guess I didn't clean enough of the oxide layer off of the terminal there because when I ohmed out the battery cable from + terminal to trunk ground I had 100 ohms. Oops.
Redid the wiring at the front of the car and terminated the cable at the starter and kept the OE starter harness to connect from there to the engine bay. Repeating the resistance measurement from before showed 0 ohms.
Starts like it used to again.
I finally figured out the source of my slow starter after battery relocation. I made a bracket to hold a set of +/- posts in the engine bay where the battery used to sit. I tied the battery cable from the trunk into the existing factory wiring harness in there. I guess I didn't clean enough of the oxide layer off of the terminal there because when I ohmed out the battery cable from + terminal to trunk ground I had 100 ohms. Oops.
Redid the wiring at the front of the car and terminated the cable at the starter and kept the OE starter harness to connect from there to the engine bay. Repeating the resistance measurement from before showed 0 ohms.
Starts like it used to again.
#3380
#3381
Some one help me out please my 2004 rx8 it’s stuck at 2000 rpm. I already replaced the throttle body the pedal position sensor coils and spark plugs and nothing. Mazda said they can’t pin point the issue and want to start by replacing the pcm. Is it true that ones you replace the pcm u also need to replace the car keys ? Sorry guys but I have just done so much and can’t get this car to work... dsc check engine battery lights are all on as well
#3382
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
Some one help me out please my 2004 rx8 it’s stuck at 2000 rpm. I already replaced the throttle body the pedal position sensor coils and spark plugs and nothing. Mazda said they can’t pin point the issue and want to start by replacing the pcm. Is it true that ones you replace the pcm u also need to replace the car keys ? Sorry guys but I have just done so much and can’t get this car to work... dsc check engine battery lights are all on as well
btw this isnt in the right forum
#3383
Registered
Somebody is selling used ones without cracks for $250. I think new the best price I saw online was over $300. My attempted repair cost be about an hour of time, I already had the supplies I used.
After xmas I'm going to try wrapping it with some leather look vinyl wrap. I plan to use it on my center console too since it is pretty scratched up.
After xmas I'm going to try wrapping it with some leather look vinyl wrap. I plan to use it on my center console too since it is pretty scratched up.
#3384
Registered
Did about a 100mile loop in it for Family obligations.
Steering randomly got really bad - Off-Center it was difficult to turn until you really loaded it up and gave it more lock, seemed kinda notchy to around the heavy resistance area.- once you loaded it up in a corner good though it felt fine... Tracks straight, doesn't pull to either side - Aligned fine, with no notes about problems. Nothing feels loose while driving.
Checked it in the parking lot before I went into the restaurant (got my nice jeans dirty too -_-) Tie rods looked and felt solid. knuckle for the steering shaft looked ok too from what I could tell.
After dinner, Drove it back home, Car was fine the whole way back - No issues. Steering felt normal again. Hit a few hard corners ranging 50-90mph. All seemed well... Nothing weird on big bumps/dips mid corner, or during transitions.
I read a few people seem to have misc steering issues with the electric rack due to 1: rack Failures 2: dirty/corroded connectors
Massive Lack of good descriptions of symptoms when reading posts... some people wrote a god damn book longer than this one without saying once exactly what was wrong.
Anyone want to chime in before I go taring my entire front end apart and find nothing OR make another pointless Power Steering thread?
Steering randomly got really bad - Off-Center it was difficult to turn until you really loaded it up and gave it more lock, seemed kinda notchy to around the heavy resistance area.- once you loaded it up in a corner good though it felt fine... Tracks straight, doesn't pull to either side - Aligned fine, with no notes about problems. Nothing feels loose while driving.
Checked it in the parking lot before I went into the restaurant (got my nice jeans dirty too -_-) Tie rods looked and felt solid. knuckle for the steering shaft looked ok too from what I could tell.
After dinner, Drove it back home, Car was fine the whole way back - No issues. Steering felt normal again. Hit a few hard corners ranging 50-90mph. All seemed well... Nothing weird on big bumps/dips mid corner, or during transitions.
I read a few people seem to have misc steering issues with the electric rack due to 1: rack Failures 2: dirty/corroded connectors
Massive Lack of good descriptions of symptoms when reading posts... some people wrote a god damn book longer than this one without saying once exactly what was wrong.
Anyone want to chime in before I go taring my entire front end apart and find nothing OR make another pointless Power Steering thread?
Last edited by blackmount; 12-23-2017 at 11:20 PM.
#3385
Did about a 100mile loop in it for Family obligations.
Steering randomly got really bad - Off-Center it was difficult to turn until you really loaded it up and gave it more lock, seemed kinda notchy to around the heavy resistance area.- once you loaded it up in a corner good though it felt fine... Tracks straight, doesn't pull to either side - Aligned fine, with no notes about problems. Nothing feels loose while driving.
Checked it in the parking lot before I went into the restaurant (got my nice jeans dirty too -_-) Tie rods looked and felt solid. knuckle for the steering shaft looked ok too from what I could tell.
After dinner, Drove it back home, Car was fine the whole way back - No issues. Steering felt normal again. Hit a few hard corners ranging 50-90mph. All seemed well... Nothing weird on big bumps/dips mid corner, or during transitions.
I read a few people seem to have misc steering issues with the electric rack due to 1: rack Failures 2: dirty/corroded connectors
Massive Lack of good descriptions of symptoms when reading posts... some people wrote a god damn book longer than this one without saying once exactly what was wrong.
Anyone want to chime in before I go taring my entire front end apart and find nothing OR make another pointless Power Steering thread?
Steering randomly got really bad - Off-Center it was difficult to turn until you really loaded it up and gave it more lock, seemed kinda notchy to around the heavy resistance area.- once you loaded it up in a corner good though it felt fine... Tracks straight, doesn't pull to either side - Aligned fine, with no notes about problems. Nothing feels loose while driving.
Checked it in the parking lot before I went into the restaurant (got my nice jeans dirty too -_-) Tie rods looked and felt solid. knuckle for the steering shaft looked ok too from what I could tell.
After dinner, Drove it back home, Car was fine the whole way back - No issues. Steering felt normal again. Hit a few hard corners ranging 50-90mph. All seemed well... Nothing weird on big bumps/dips mid corner, or during transitions.
I read a few people seem to have misc steering issues with the electric rack due to 1: rack Failures 2: dirty/corroded connectors
Massive Lack of good descriptions of symptoms when reading posts... some people wrote a god damn book longer than this one without saying once exactly what was wrong.
Anyone want to chime in before I go taring my entire front end apart and find nothing OR make another pointless Power Steering thread?
Drive that same lane, and piece of of road, at the same speed again. Let us know.
#3386
Registered
The resistance was while not moving as well as while rolling at speed. I did not push it in corners when it was happening due to me thinking the problem was alot more mechanical then that. Definitely not the road surface, as I take that route sometimes 2-3 times a week for recreational shenanigans like our Sunday Cars and Coffee.
Everything is snow covered now and nasty, so the RX-8 wont be moving for a week or so.
Everything is snow covered now and nasty, so the RX-8 wont be moving for a week or so.
#3388
Help...?
im new to the forums and don’t know how to use them sorry if this is in the wrong place just looking for help. I’m looking into buying a rx8 but I’m confused on which year i should buy, my budget is 10k max I’m looking at some of the 2009+ years just because it’s easier to deal with the engine and such. Any tips?
#3389
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
im new to the forums and don’t know how to use them sorry if this is in the wrong place just looking for help. I’m looking into buying a rx8 but I’m confused on which year i should buy, my budget is 10k max I’m looking at some of the 2009+ years just because it’s easier to deal with the engine and such. Any tips?
Happy hunting and good luck!
#3390
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Welcome and yes this is the incorrect sub forum. Read the sticky section at the top of the new member forum to familiarise yourself on how to get the most out of this site. You should be able to discern from there along with your budget if an rx8 is a good investment for you. With the age of the rx8 in general, I don't believe it will make much of a difference which one you purchase. There all going to need a repair budget. There are a few in the classified forum that I would look at to give you an idea about what you're going to find.
#3391
I have a 2004 series one automatic: Today I redied the car for a starter replacement. On the automatic trans rx8 I have to remove the cross member out of the way to remove the automatic starter. It will probably take 30 minutes after the cross member is removed. Fairly easy replacement. I will try to take some photo's of the before and after.
#3394
Registered
I wrapped the passenger airbag cover using Vvivid Vinyls fake leather wrap. It is a little on the glossy side and you can still somewhat see an H pattern but it is a lot better.
#3395
Not today, but Friday I had to tow my rx8 into the dealer. Today I got the estimate. Over $3k in damages. $1k just to start it they said. I asked them for part numbers on the spark plugs and starter.
Story: I left the car in parent's garage before the hurricanes hit in Sep. Came to it last week. The battery was dead. I put in a new one, but the alarm went off, the car started but that wouldn't shut off the alarm and my remote-key wasn't working. Disconnected the new battery and went to replace the remote-key battery.
When I came back and connected the battery, I shut off the alarm, but now the car wouldn't start. Which it had previously started the same day.
I towed it to the dealer then.
They are charging:
$980 for the starter
$346 for the spark plugs
$142 multiple clean - whatever that is.
And on the $3k estimate, they included Radiator, thermostat, intake tube, intake elbows, 2 fans.
I think it's all overpriced and maybe they added stuff that didn't need to be replaced since the car DID start previously.
For now, I'm waiting on the part numbers and searching for them online to confirm when they arrive.
Story: I left the car in parent's garage before the hurricanes hit in Sep. Came to it last week. The battery was dead. I put in a new one, but the alarm went off, the car started but that wouldn't shut off the alarm and my remote-key wasn't working. Disconnected the new battery and went to replace the remote-key battery.
When I came back and connected the battery, I shut off the alarm, but now the car wouldn't start. Which it had previously started the same day.
I towed it to the dealer then.
They are charging:
$980 for the starter
$346 for the spark plugs
$142 multiple clean - whatever that is.
And on the $3k estimate, they included Radiator, thermostat, intake tube, intake elbows, 2 fans.
I think it's all overpriced and maybe they added stuff that didn't need to be replaced since the car DID start previously.
For now, I'm waiting on the part numbers and searching for them online to confirm when they arrive.
#3396
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
sparks are 80
starter ~100-120
cleaner does nothing
aftermarket rad, wp, t stat fans 5-600
starter ~100-120
cleaner does nothing
aftermarket rad, wp, t stat fans 5-600
#3397
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Not today, but Friday I had to tow my rx8 into the dealer. Today I got the estimate. Over $3k in damages. $1k just to start it they said. I asked them for part numbers on the spark plugs and starter.
Story: I left the car in parent's garage before the hurricanes hit in Sep. Came to it last week. The battery was dead. I put in a new one, but the alarm went off, the car started but that wouldn't shut off the alarm and my remote-key wasn't working. Disconnected the new battery and went to replace the remote-key battery.
When I came back and connected the battery, I shut off the alarm, but now the car wouldn't start. Which it had previously started the same day.
I towed it to the dealer then.
They are charging:
$980 for the starter
$346 for the spark plugs
$142 multiple clean - whatever that is.
And on the $3k estimate, they included Radiator, thermostat, intake tube, intake elbows, 2 fans.
I think it's all overpriced and maybe they added stuff that didn't need to be replaced since the car DID start previously.
For now, I'm waiting on the part numbers and searching for them online to confirm when they arrive.
Story: I left the car in parent's garage before the hurricanes hit in Sep. Came to it last week. The battery was dead. I put in a new one, but the alarm went off, the car started but that wouldn't shut off the alarm and my remote-key wasn't working. Disconnected the new battery and went to replace the remote-key battery.
When I came back and connected the battery, I shut off the alarm, but now the car wouldn't start. Which it had previously started the same day.
I towed it to the dealer then.
They are charging:
$980 for the starter
$346 for the spark plugs
$142 multiple clean - whatever that is.
And on the $3k estimate, they included Radiator, thermostat, intake tube, intake elbows, 2 fans.
I think it's all overpriced and maybe they added stuff that didn't need to be replaced since the car DID start previously.
For now, I'm waiting on the part numbers and searching for them online to confirm when they arrive.
Did they explain why the radiator, fans, thermostat need to be replaced? Has the car overheated?
Did the explain what multiple clean isband why you need it?
The intake elbows should never need replacing unless someone tore them.
When you say it doesn't start, does it turn and turn but not fire, or just not turn? It sounds like you could have flooded it by turning it off quickly after starting it the first time. If it has been sitting since Sept, the fuel could have also gone bad and you just need a fill of fresh.
The spark plugs and coils should be replaced. The starter.. refer to my question aboit whether it turns. If it does, please ask them to explain why the starter needs replacing.
#3398
The only thing that is getting cleaned is you. Sorry.
Did they explain why the radiator, fans, thermostat need to be replaced? Has the car overheated?
Did the explain what multiple clean isband why you need it?
The intake elbows should never need replacing unless someone tore them.
When you say it doesn't start, does it turn and turn but not fire, or just not turn? It sounds like you could have flooded it by turning it off quickly after starting it the first time. If it has been sitting since Sept, the fuel could have also gone bad and you just need a fill of fresh.
The spark plugs and coils should be replaced. The starter.. refer to my question aboit whether it turns. If it does, please ask them to explain why the starter needs replacing.
Did they explain why the radiator, fans, thermostat need to be replaced? Has the car overheated?
Did the explain what multiple clean isband why you need it?
The intake elbows should never need replacing unless someone tore them.
When you say it doesn't start, does it turn and turn but not fire, or just not turn? It sounds like you could have flooded it by turning it off quickly after starting it the first time. If it has been sitting since Sept, the fuel could have also gone bad and you just need a fill of fresh.
The spark plugs and coils should be replaced. The starter.. refer to my question aboit whether it turns. If it does, please ask them to explain why the starter needs replacing.
The "key" turns and it goes and does all the sounds of starting, it is just missing that last millisecond kick where it does start the engine.
They explained about the starter that when I attempted it to start, the "bristles" (sic) turn for a while but then get stuck, and for a while it fakes starting, then it could do one start and get stuck again.
#3399
Registered
iTrader: (1)
For the radiator, they said that it could heat later on. Not buying it since it worked fine before I stored it.
The "key" turns and it goes and does all the sounds of starting, it is just missing that last millisecond kick where it does start the engine.
They explained about the starter that when I attempted it to start, the "bristles" (sic) turn for a while but then get stuck, and for a while it fakes starting, then it could do one start and get stuck again.
The "key" turns and it goes and does all the sounds of starting, it is just missing that last millisecond kick where it does start the engine.
They explained about the starter that when I attempted it to start, the "bristles" (sic) turn for a while but then get stuck, and for a while it fakes starting, then it could do one start and get stuck again.
Whaaaaaat. Is this a Mazda dealer or some random shop?
So it is turning but not starting? Pretty sure it's flooded.
Starters can fail, but so can literally everything else. Do the spakr plugs and coils (yourself if you can, its easy).
#3400