What to check, before warranty is over?
#1
What to check, before warranty is over?
Before Warrranty is over, what Should I check in my car for?
I checked speakers, and tail lights.
What else "to do" list to check
So I dont regret after my warranty is over.
Thanks.
I checked speakers, and tail lights.
What else "to do" list to check
So I dont regret after my warranty is over.
Thanks.
#2
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check every nook and cranny of your engine, transmission, differential, driveshaft, axles, suspension, all of that. you want to be very very thorough. you should spend at least a whole day doing it
#3
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compression check
#6
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where do you live?
#8
Live in Pennsylvania...
My friend has mazdaspeed protege he has a tool that can compression check.
But He doesn't have experience with rotary.
1. He doesnt know where its at on rx8
2. what are the number supposed to be?
Thanks jedi54
Another one, I have a little over 15k miles on the car.
Driver side seat has little bit of wear/tear, Is this something I can ask under warranty? since its only 15k miles on the car?
My friend has mazdaspeed protege he has a tool that can compression check.
But He doesn't have experience with rotary.
1. He doesnt know where its at on rx8
2. what are the number supposed to be?
Thanks jedi54
Another one, I have a little over 15k miles on the car.
Driver side seat has little bit of wear/tear, Is this something I can ask under warranty? since its only 15k miles on the car?
Last edited by reddevilwarrior; 01-07-2008 at 01:43 PM.
#9
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hmm . . . not sure if the compression numbers are listed on the recall letter, but it's worth a check on rosenthal's site - TSBs. (compression test = vacuum test) I think the numbers were discussed for a while in the "engine replacement poll" thread - here (tho it may be a ton of reading to find @300+ posts)
Doing it yourself would be nice for comparison, but it's worth doing at the dealer either way. Then there's no question about differences between machines - or any other craptastic nonsense the dealer may try to claim makes your readings invalid.
Doing it yourself would be nice for comparison, but it's worth doing at the dealer either way. Then there's no question about differences between machines - or any other craptastic nonsense the dealer may try to claim makes your readings invalid.
#10
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Can't hurt to ask about the seat, but my gut instinct was to rofl. Maybe if you actually use the dealer service dept, but if not they'll probably tell you you fart too much!
#11
The engine recall would not list the compression ratio, it tested vacuum not compression.
As for testing it your self, you will need a special gauge designed to test compression on a rotary. A regular compression gauge will not work.
As for testing it your self, you will need a special gauge designed to test compression on a rotary. A regular compression gauge will not work.
hmm . . . not sure if the compression numbers are listed on the recall letter, but it's worth a check on rosenthal's site - TSBs. (compression test = vacuum test) I think the numbers were discussed for a while in the "engine replacement poll" thread - here (tho it may be a ton of reading to find @300+ posts)
Doing it yourself would be nice for comparison, but it's worth doing at the dealer either way. Then there's no question about differences between machines - or any other craptastic nonsense the dealer may try to claim makes your readings invalid.
Doing it yourself would be nice for comparison, but it's worth doing at the dealer either way. Then there's no question about differences between machines - or any other craptastic nonsense the dealer may try to claim makes your readings invalid.
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#17
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#19
#20
Nope from what I understand it measured the volume or pressure of the air being sucked into the engine. I don't know why they did this test instead of a compression test. Being cynical I assumed more cars would have failed the compression test and it would have cost Mazda more to fix.
#22