ranny3

Hi

This just happened to me last night. Actually I had moved my car into the garage on friday and I just tried starting it last night and it had been flooded - had to flatbed it to the dealer....

just a warning - i knew about all the issues and i usually am careful about idling before shutting down... but after 8 months of ownership i never had a problem so i kinda got lazy you can say - plus it was freezing outside (~ -14C) so that didn't help, although i did idle a good 45sec-1min... anyway just fyi be careful, u might get lucky once in a while withouth idling much but one day you will get screwed!!!

New Yorker

Just got mine a couple of weeks ago, so until last weekend I was being overly cautious—even nervous—about flooding it. At first the whole flooding thing seemed overwhelming, and I could understand the frustration I read about here—all the rules, warnings—even a DVD—seemed like a lot to deal with. Then, last weekend, it dawned on me how simple the whole thing really is; how the huge problem could be avoided if I simply remember one thing:

Always warm-up the engine.

That's it—that's all anyone needs to know. Considering that the rotary is a different kind of engine, that doesn't seem like an unreasonable thing for anyone to have to remember. Hell, didn't steam-powered cars have to be treated differently?

Sunday I waited over 30 minutes to enter a hand car wash. I cut the engine every couple of minutes—every time I pulled up another car length—and the engine started right up every time. No worries.

Brice-RX8

If the car is fully warm you can cut it on and off all you want to without worries of it flooding, you will just use a lot of gas, at least in my experience the more I cut the car on and off for short trips the more gas it uses. I always make sure that the temp guage is above the "C" when I cut it off, and if it isn't to the middle yet, I just do the 3k rev and cutoff when it is falling.

New Yorker

How long do you figure the car needs to be not moving before turning it off saves you gas? (I seem to recall the rule of thumb for regular engines was to cut if off if you'd be sitting for more than a minute.)

dwill9578

I got the new starter and battery when I complained about a rough idle, I also got the M flash at the same time. Point is I'm in NH, it's been mighty cold...I left something inside my place after running my car for all of 10 seconds in 4 degrees, revved it to 4 grand (car disagreed with this) but fired right back up. I don't think people have to drive around for minutes, no matter how long it's been running just spin it and shut her down(if remembered of coarse). This has not failed me yet.

MEGAREDS

This really bugs me... and I agree with the post. You apparently weren't badly stranded, you haven't been dishonest ... you just win several hundred dollars worth of mechanical work I'll probably have to pay for.

UnstoppableDrew

When I bought my 05 they told me if you have to shut it off before it's warmed up, hold it at 4k for about 20-30 secs, then blip it hard and shut it off. Supposedly that blow the chambers clear or something. I've done this a few times when I had to move the car, and it's never flooded. I have noticed though on cold mornings, it REALLY doesn't want to rev. It's like there's a cutout around 6500 that it would bounce off. I just assumed it was some sort of built in protection to prevent high revving on a cold engine. Has anyone else experienced that ?

MrJynx

sigh.. man this is an interesting thread.. a few things

1. This is a rotary engine.. it is a circle engine block(maybe should i say cylinder . When you start and stop the car the gas that was put into the chamber is now going to pool at the bottom of the rotor.. think about this logically, it's a circle, where would liquid go? At the bottom of the chamber!!! ding ding ding ding ding! Since the engine is cold it will stay there. Engine is warm, it will evaporate.

2. If you really have to start and stop the car, rev it up to 4k then turn off the engine while it's at 4k, the rotars in theory should keep spinning which will get rid of the excess gas. I"ve done this a few times and it seems to work. and you don't have to hold it for 20-30 secs and then blip it hard, just do it for a few seconds then turn off the car

Time and time again ppl bitch and complain about not having the ability to start and stop the car instantly.. This is a bloody sports car ppl, you shouldn't even be moving the car until the engine is warm.

If you start the car and drive on the ECU will hold the rpms below 6500rpm as well because of some issue where excessive revving while the engine is cold will in fact destroy it..

Even piston engine based sports cars should be warmed up before driving. Trust me, let the bloody thing warm up then drive it.. You will also see an increase in performance and the car will overall drive better.

Just be patient with the 8 and it will never give you any problems. Also the deflood procedure doesn't really work. I"ve tried it (my dad flooded my car last year) and it didn't do anything. Best thing to do is bring it back to the dealer, you will get a new starter/plugs which help out a lot especially in colder climates


MrJynx

UnstoppableDrew

I always give mine at the bare minimum 30 seconds, more often at least a full minute before I drive, and keep it under 3500 until it's fully warmed up.
Couple cars ago I had an 85 RX7, you knew it was time to play when you heard the choke **** hit the dashboard.

Wurmfist

That's commandment number 3 of owning a Renesis. thou shalt always rev rpm's to 3k and hold for 10 seconds if hot or 30 seconds if cold and thou shalt turn off engine while reving at 3k. For if the engine holds unspent fuel, it shall be spun out of the engine when shutting thy ignition off.


Oh by the way, I have an 04, and I always do this, and i've never had flouding issues or needed to get a different starter or plugs or anything.