typical oil thread
03-18-2009, 11:36 PM
#53
Jacksonville, NC
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From Mazda
Hello Glen,
Thank you for contacting Mazda North American Operations. I appreciate the opportunity to respond to you.
In regards to your inquiry, Mazda does not suggest synthetic oil use for the RX-8. The reason for this is that the Rotary engines must burn oil in the combustion chambers. Because synthetic oil burns at a high temperature it may not fully burn in the combustion chambers causing seals to stick.
__________________________________________________ _
Pulled from this Forum
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=exxon
05rex, mute point, show me the same thing from a NON RP site
Hello Glen,
Thank you for contacting Mazda North American Operations. I appreciate the opportunity to respond to you.
In regards to your inquiry, Mazda does not suggest synthetic oil use for the RX-8. The reason for this is that the Rotary engines must burn oil in the combustion chambers. Because synthetic oil burns at a high temperature it may not fully burn in the combustion chambers causing seals to stick.
__________________________________________________ _
Pulled from this Forum
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=exxon
05rex, mute point, show me the same thing from a NON RP site
03-18-2009, 11:40 PM
#54
03-18-2009, 11:45 PM
#55
Jacksonville, NC
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05rex No body was talking to you anyway. you have contributed nothing to the healthy discussion. If you don't like it don't read it!! And my point is, you can't trust what RP says about RP products, an independent research that is published by someone who does not work for RP is valid. Wake up!!!!!
nycgps, I appreciated the discussion with you, never hard feelings with a healthy debate, just two different opinions about what oil to use.
nycgps, I appreciated the discussion with you, never hard feelings with a healthy debate, just two different opinions about what oil to use.
Last edited by rotaryspitfire; 03-18-2009 at 11:47 PM.
03-18-2009, 11:55 PM
#56
05rex No body was talking to you anyway. you have contributed nothing to the healthy discussion. If you don't like it don't read it!! And my point is, you can't trust what RP says about RP products, an independent research that is published by someone who does not work for RP is valid. Wake up!!!!!
nycgps, I appreciated the discussion with you, never hard feelings with a healthy debate, just two different opinions about what oil to use.
nycgps, I appreciated the discussion with you, never hard feelings with a healthy debate, just two different opinions about what oil to use.
Being that this is a community and I am a member of it, yes you were talking to me.
Good day.
edit: oh and I trust Rp based on my other research of different oils out there. You can do the same...like I said use what you want based on your research. Don't go acting like there is some new information this forum doesn't contain about oil. It's all here.
Last edited by 05rex8; 03-18-2009 at 11:58 PM.
03-19-2009, 01:08 AM
#59
From Mazda
Hello Glen,
Thank you for contacting Mazda North American Operations. I appreciate the opportunity to respond to you.
In regards to your inquiry, Mazda does not suggest synthetic oil use for the RX-8. The reason for this is that the Rotary engines must burn oil in the combustion chambers. Because synthetic oil burns at a high temperature it may not fully burn in the combustion chambers causing seals to stick.
__________________________________________________ _
Pulled from this Forum
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=exxon
05rex, mute point, show me the same thing from a NON RP site
Hello Glen,
Thank you for contacting Mazda North American Operations. I appreciate the opportunity to respond to you.
In regards to your inquiry, Mazda does not suggest synthetic oil use for the RX-8. The reason for this is that the Rotary engines must burn oil in the combustion chambers. Because synthetic oil burns at a high temperature it may not fully burn in the combustion chambers causing seals to stick.
__________________________________________________ _
Pulled from this Forum
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=exxon
05rex, mute point, show me the same thing from a NON RP site
then someone should ask why is Mazda Japan is selling Synthetic oil for Rotary engines?
I hope they wont tell me that those oil have some "magical" additives that no one on earth knows about can cause these seals to "unstick" itself.
dont tell me because the ECU and stuff are different.
Or someone should email them and ask this
"As far as I concern the combustion chamber's temperature is much much higher than ANY Synthetic oil's flash point. so How can it not "fully burned??"
Yeah.
but we all love rotary ... dont ya think ?
For the RP part, its kinda hard to say.
Its just like walking into an auto dealership and ask if this car on the lot is good. of course they will tell ya it has 200 hp and 199 tq and all other stuff and its so wonderful that its probably made by God or something. They didnt lied about the car's performance. but do you really trust them about "this car will smoke xxx brand xxx model xxx ....." or "This car handles like god that even ferraris should be ashamed of themselves"
Is it really a good car? could be. but is it as good as the salesman claim? maybe not.
RP is good oil I know, I used to use it too, but I prefer Ester based oil more than PAO now. for around same price. I stick with RedLine.
Speaking of that, I think its time to order some now. I finished my stock of Redline already.
You're late my friend. too late ...
now where have u been for these past 2 days ?
Last edited by nycgps; 03-19-2009 at 01:10 AM.
03-19-2009, 01:13 AM
#60
if thats the case,
then someone should ask why is Mazda Japan is selling Synthetic oil for Rotary engines?
Oh dont tell me that they have some "magical" additives that no one on earth knows about can cause these seals to "unstick" itself.
Or dont tell me because the ECU and stuff are different.
Or someone should email them and ask this
"As far as I concern the combustion chamber's temperature is much much higher than ANY Synthetic oil's flash point. so How can it not "fully burned??"
Yeah.
but we all love rotary ... dont ya think ?
For the RP part, its kinda hard to say.
Its just like walking into an auto dealership and ask if this car on the lot is good. of course they will tell ya it has 200 hp and 199 tq and all other stuff and its so wonderful that its probably made by God or something. They didnt lied about the car's performance. but do you really trust them about "this car will smoke xxx brand xxx model xxx ....." or "This car handles like god that even ferraris should be ashamed of themselves"
Is it really a good car? could be. but is it as good as the salesman claim? maybe not.
RP is good oil I know, I used to use it too, but I prefer Ester based oil more than PAO now. for around same price. I stick with RedLine.
You're late my friend. too late ...
now where have u been for these past 2 days ?
then someone should ask why is Mazda Japan is selling Synthetic oil for Rotary engines?
Oh dont tell me that they have some "magical" additives that no one on earth knows about can cause these seals to "unstick" itself.
Or dont tell me because the ECU and stuff are different.
Or someone should email them and ask this
"As far as I concern the combustion chamber's temperature is much much higher than ANY Synthetic oil's flash point. so How can it not "fully burned??"
Yeah.
but we all love rotary ... dont ya think ?
For the RP part, its kinda hard to say.
Its just like walking into an auto dealership and ask if this car on the lot is good. of course they will tell ya it has 200 hp and 199 tq and all other stuff and its so wonderful that its probably made by God or something. They didnt lied about the car's performance. but do you really trust them about "this car will smoke xxx brand xxx model xxx ....." or "This car handles like god that even ferraris should be ashamed of themselves"
Is it really a good car? could be. but is it as good as the salesman claim? maybe not.
RP is good oil I know, I used to use it too, but I prefer Ester based oil more than PAO now. for around same price. I stick with RedLine.
You're late my friend. too late ...
now where have u been for these past 2 days ?
i had a life for a day or two.. wait i have a job..
got oil.. change it. that is the most important part.. tastes great less filling.
it is the same thing..
have done it the same way with different motors.. same thing..
most important thing.. drive the car hard...
if you dont oil does not matter..
just my opinion.. i could be wrong...
beers
03-19-2009, 05:36 AM
#61
Registered
Don't put words in my mouth robert and I already explained my first comment. If that oil is super available in Japan why not here? That was my point! Where did I say """So now you're revising your prohibition to: "BTW, never use synthetic oil ... except in Japan"? Unbelievable. ""
We aren't in Japan so I don't understand the point. A car made for the jap market cannot be sold in this country legally, for many reasons that include safety and emission regulations. ...
Come on guys get serious, that was a link to MAZDA JAPAN, not MAZDA AMERICA
Come on guys get serious, that was a link to MAZDA JAPAN, not MAZDA AMERICA
03-19-2009, 12:53 PM
#62
Jacksonville, NC
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, you all educated me. My main point was about the burn quality of Synthetic. For years it was a known problem in the Rotary engine. So from 1979 to 199?? (Last FD year in America?) it was a standard comment and discussion in the community then to not use Synthetic.
Fast forward 10 years and Mazda re-introduces the Rotary engine again to the American consumer. All of us old rotor heads were excited and Mazda was counting on that. But, a younger consumer fell in love harder for the 8 than did the old consumer. Renesis engine?? What did Mazda do to my beloved hard core, easily modified with potential for 500 hp 13b motor?? Most of my discussions with old farts or 7 lovers like myself: we love the design of the 8 but are dissapointed with the limitations of the Renesis engine design.
So a few months ago I bought a 06 Shinka with 19k and brought an old idea of old Synthetic oil. This discussion has forced me to look at Synthetic in a rotary again. See where I'm coming from? So much discussion on the RX8 forum did not address burn quality, just viscosity and ability to withstand higher temps.............. And most people were just jumping on the band wagon without sound research! Agreed, there perogrative and I'm ok with that, but my mechnical and analitical mind needs more scientifc proof to kill my old belief in Synthetics.
Fast forward 10 years and Mazda re-introduces the Rotary engine again to the American consumer. All of us old rotor heads were excited and Mazda was counting on that. But, a younger consumer fell in love harder for the 8 than did the old consumer. Renesis engine?? What did Mazda do to my beloved hard core, easily modified with potential for 500 hp 13b motor?? Most of my discussions with old farts or 7 lovers like myself: we love the design of the 8 but are dissapointed with the limitations of the Renesis engine design.
So a few months ago I bought a 06 Shinka with 19k and brought an old idea of old Synthetic oil. This discussion has forced me to look at Synthetic in a rotary again. See where I'm coming from? So much discussion on the RX8 forum did not address burn quality, just viscosity and ability to withstand higher temps.............. And most people were just jumping on the band wagon without sound research! Agreed, there perogrative and I'm ok with that, but my mechnical and analitical mind needs more scientifc proof to kill my old belief in Synthetics.
Last edited by rotaryspitfire; 03-20-2009 at 07:18 PM.
03-19-2009, 03:07 PM
#63
Yes, you all educated me. My main point was about the burn quality of Synthetic. For years it was a known problem in the Rotary engine. So from 1979 to 199?? (Last FD year in America?) it was a standard comment and discussion in the community then to not use Synthetic.
Fast forward 10 years and Mazda re-introduces the Rotary engine again to the American consumer. All of us old rotor heads were excited and Mazda was counting on that. But, a younger consumer fell in love harder for the 8 than did the old consumer. Renesis engine?? What did Mazda do to my beloved hard core, easily modified with potential for 500 hp 13b motor?? Most of my discussions with old farts or 7 lovers like myself: we love the design of the 8 but are dissapointed with the limitations of the Renesis engine design.
So a few months ago I bought a 06 Shinka with 19k and brought an old idea of old Synthetic oil. This discussion has forced me to look at Synthetic in a rotary again. See where I'm coming from? So much discussion on the RX8 forum did not address burn quality, just viscosity and ability to withstand higher temps.............. And most people were just jumping on the band wagon without sound research! Agreed, there perogrative and I'm ok with that, but my mechnical and analitical mind needs more scientifc proof to kill my old belief in Synthetics.
Anyway, I'm looking at an 04 shell, blown motor.........I have s4 and s5 TII motors in my shed to rebuild, So I'll take the s4 housings, use the higher compression s5 rotors, have my buddy open wide the exhaust ports in the housings, (Renesis exhaust ports are in the irons) bridge port some of the irons, slap a large turbo on it, figure out what engine management system to use and hopefully have a 400+ hp RX8. Then I will slap any sht eating grin off ............Well, I won't have to back down with some cars like I do in the Shinka..........on a closed and perfectly legal track and drag strip to play on of course. Street racing is just plain stupid
Fast forward 10 years and Mazda re-introduces the Rotary engine again to the American consumer. All of us old rotor heads were excited and Mazda was counting on that. But, a younger consumer fell in love harder for the 8 than did the old consumer. Renesis engine?? What did Mazda do to my beloved hard core, easily modified with potential for 500 hp 13b motor?? Most of my discussions with old farts or 7 lovers like myself: we love the design of the 8 but are dissapointed with the limitations of the Renesis engine design.
So a few months ago I bought a 06 Shinka with 19k and brought an old idea of old Synthetic oil. This discussion has forced me to look at Synthetic in a rotary again. See where I'm coming from? So much discussion on the RX8 forum did not address burn quality, just viscosity and ability to withstand higher temps.............. And most people were just jumping on the band wagon without sound research! Agreed, there perogrative and I'm ok with that, but my mechnical and analitical mind needs more scientifc proof to kill my old belief in Synthetics.
Anyway, I'm looking at an 04 shell, blown motor.........I have s4 and s5 TII motors in my shed to rebuild, So I'll take the s4 housings, use the higher compression s5 rotors, have my buddy open wide the exhaust ports in the housings, (Renesis exhaust ports are in the irons) bridge port some of the irons, slap a large turbo on it, figure out what engine management system to use and hopefully have a 400+ hp RX8. Then I will slap any sht eating grin off ............Well, I won't have to back down with some cars like I do in the Shinka..........on a closed and perfectly legal track and drag strip to play on of course. Street racing is just plain stupid
Mazda has been trying to do Side port for a long time, I think they tried it 20 something years ago. but failed (maybe techonology) so they stick with P-port designs.
Side port has potential, but this is the "first" successful side port design (13B-MSP) So the next one would be much better.
and dont forget, Motor for Motor, NA to NA, 13B-msp is the highest output engine. 13B-REW/RE/whatever earlier is total crap without their turbo.
The synthetic oil thing just a matter of choice. Like it? use it. Dont like it? go regular. no biggie
but I just dont like people (not you) spreading rumors all over the place, like Synthetic clogs stuff, rotary blows up every 30K miles. etc. most of those ******** never even seen a rotary engine before(dont even know how it works) then they just start talking crap about it.
03-19-2009, 03:55 PM
#64
is looking for his torque
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok, so thanks guys and gals.
you guys have blown my mind away.
it was a simple dealership or no dealership.
now i'm
:icon_ no2:
if i use synthetic should i still go 5w-30 or will 5w-20 be okay?
still undecided of synthetic or regular. i find both ok.
**** i'm dumbstruck. i'll post later in the day. i'm so confused
lets confuse anthony some more. what oil filter should i use. i saw roto rockets thread and wanted to cry.
i'm gonna go wax my car, no thinking involved
you guys have blown my mind away.
it was a simple dealership or no dealership.
now i'm
:icon_ no2:if i use synthetic should i still go 5w-30 or will 5w-20 be okay?
still undecided of synthetic or regular. i find both ok.
**** i'm dumbstruck. i'll post later in the day. i'm so confused
lets confuse anthony some more. what oil filter should i use. i saw roto rockets thread and wanted to cry.
i'm gonna go wax my car, no thinking involved
Last edited by always.anthony; 03-19-2009 at 04:02 PM.
03-19-2009, 04:51 PM
#65
3-wheeler
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 2,734
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would stress more importance on using 5w-30 than deciding on the whole dino oil vs. synthetic oil stuff.
During the summer months (which are quickly approaching) I'd suggest 10w-30 and then 5w-30 in the winter time.
You could always buy the sohn adapter and then it won't matter which oil you use.
During the summer months (which are quickly approaching) I'd suggest 10w-30 and then 5w-30 in the winter time.
You could always buy the sohn adapter and then it won't matter which oil you use.
Last edited by Flashwing; 03-19-2009 at 05:04 PM.
03-19-2009, 05:01 PM
#66
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
- If you go with synthetic, go with those brands that most of us have been using, Royal Purple, RedLine, etc.
- If you go with dyno, Castrol GTX is a popular choice.
- 5w-30 for winter, 10w-30 or even 20w-50 for summer
- Oil filter, you can use K&N or Mazda OEM
03-28-2009, 03:10 AM
#67
is looking for his torque
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would stress more importance on using 5w-30 than deciding on the whole dino oil vs. synthetic oil stuff.
During the summer months (which are quickly approaching) I'd suggest 10w-30 and then 5w-30 in the winter time.
You could always buy the sohn adapter and then it won't matter which oil you use.
During the summer months (which are quickly approaching) I'd suggest 10w-30 and then 5w-30 in the winter time.
You could always buy the sohn adapter and then it won't matter which oil you use.
well, i've decided on royal purple 10w-30 for right now. i need to know 1 last thing.
i plan on getting all the old oil out by getting an engine flush from ntb. would that be okay?
03-28-2009, 08:26 AM
#68
want to compete in b stock, but very good suggestion, considered it.
thanks thanks for that.
well, i've decided on royal purple 10w-30 for right now. i need to know 1 last thing.
i plan on getting all the old oil out by getting an engine flush from ntb. would that be okay?
thanks thanks for that.
well, i've decided on royal purple 10w-30 for right now. i need to know 1 last thing.
i plan on getting all the old oil out by getting an engine flush from ntb. would that be okay?
All u need to do is to
jack driver side up first, drain oil
leave the drain open, put driver side down, jack passenger side all the way up.
put passenger side down, and jack driver side up again
Most oil would be out, and you just saved urself some money from doing some bs oil/engine flush.
03-28-2009, 09:33 AM
#69
Registered
Just start using whatever you want to convert to, and tip the car like nygps says to get the most change per change.
Ken
03-28-2009, 09:37 AM
#70
Registered
The problem with oil flushes is how do you get the flush stuff out? The concept also reminds me of the old pre-detergent days when some people recommended flushing with kerosene.
Just start using whatever you want to convert to, and tip the car like nygps says to get the most change per change.
Ken
Just start using whatever you want to convert to, and tip the car like nygps says to get the most change per change.
Ken
03-28-2009, 07:05 PM
#71
is looking for his torque
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wtf......how do you get the the flush stuff out? never thought about that.
in houston we have ntb national tire and battery, place that does maintenance and other stuff for you.
how often do you guys change oil using synthetic btw, i'm thinking i should go every 5k?
and rocking the car back in forth, i still see the oill being in the coolers, and just those other few places. oil flush juices go through the system, for i think like 5 minutes, so every drop of oil is out, and its a very thin juice, procedure is let run at idle for 5 minutes, then i'm guessing cause its so thin, more of it will come out opposed to oil.
and i've always believed in engine flushed of some way or another after a few thousand miles of breaking in.
50 dollars, all in all, 5-6 quarts of royal purple, and an engine flush
in houston we have ntb national tire and battery, place that does maintenance and other stuff for you.
how often do you guys change oil using synthetic btw, i'm thinking i should go every 5k?
and rocking the car back in forth, i still see the oill being in the coolers, and just those other few places. oil flush juices go through the system, for i think like 5 minutes, so every drop of oil is out, and its a very thin juice, procedure is let run at idle for 5 minutes, then i'm guessing cause its so thin, more of it will come out opposed to oil.
and i've always believed in engine flushed of some way or another after a few thousand miles of breaking in.
50 dollars, all in all, 5-6 quarts of royal purple, and an engine flush
03-28-2009, 08:42 PM
#72
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-28-2009, 09:20 PM
#73
Registered
I don't think so. You should change your oil after warming up the oil so it flows pretty easily, especially that 5w-20 stuff. The oil coolers is where a lot of the old oil gets trapped, but not because it's too thick to flow. I suspect most of the oil flush stuff is just a way to get more of your money.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pelleilee
New Member Forum
6
09-29-2019 10:07 AM
akagc
RX-8's For Sale/Wanted
7
08-11-2015 07:07 PM
