Damn Darrin....that's even worse than mine when the Cat was plugged solid

That's kinda what the plot looks like though.....fuggly !

 

My previous engine was much weaker than most down-low.

 

My car felt sluggish before engine change (quarter-mile time of 18+ sec proved it). It still felt sluggish after engine replacement. It was brand new engine from Japan too. Then I still felt car was unresponsive and dealer changed catalytic converter and computer but still not much improvement. Then I got new spark plugs, battery and new starter and now car feels strong again! I can feel me getting pushed to the seat when I accelerate unlike before (where I couldn't feel if car was moving or not... heh). XD

So it must be, you have to have

1. new engine
2. new catalytic converter
3. new computer
4. new spark plugs
5. new starter
6. new battery

for the car to restore its power (in any order)

 

1. I'm on the 'new' engine...I hope I don't need ANOTHER.
2. I'm on a new-ish cat...although before the old engine was replaced I could feel the car losing power. I BEGGED them to replace the cat along w/ the new engine. They refused.
3. I'm on the newest flash, iirc - unless there's been a NEWER flash out.
4. Had new plugs on the old engine
5. Have the upgraded starter
6. have the upgraded/new battery.


I'm hoping it's the cat...mostly so I can rub it in a bit.

 

oh,
you are in the needed the new cat, but got the new engine club...

you win.. in a big way..

beers

 

Urrr... I think you are not suppose to rev rotary engine when cold... something about different expansion rate inside the engine and outside engine. I read somewhere if you rev rotary when cold, it's more likely seal inside the engine will be prematurely wear out (hence the reason, some people say you have to warm up RX-8 for 10 minutes before driving off). But what I do is I barely rev the engine when engine is cold but when it reaches normal driving temperature... I REV!!!!

I can't find the link to where I read that but it makes sense to me. Maybe you will just have to blindly trust my words.

 

The previous engine had the 'after freeway cruising = no Power' mod...so I think it was ready to be replaced - but I kept telling them I could 'smell' the cat, AND the car was pulling 'weaker' up top...getting worse. He told me the smell was from "'sulphur' they 'put in the gas, during the winter."

Right.

 

Forum Member dannobre's dyno last year. Was a 'bad cat'.

Plot looks quite similiar, you think?

 

Wow, do you know what gear he was in?

 

looks like a third gear pull.

 

So when are you going back on the dyno?

 

I might ask the mazda dealer to spot me $80 to go back!

Problem is - that exact dyno will be removed monday or tuesday at that shop.

They're installing an AWD dyno.

 

****, then you ahave to start all over.

 

sarcasm > you =P

 

some people just don't understand sarcasm

 

They paid to run mine and a lot car when I was having problems....

 

OH! I got it now!!!!

 

My 3rd Gear Dyno plot compared dannobre's dyno from last year -

Click for Larger.

 

Making it 5.2 secs 0-60 (from the 5.9) or 5.83?

just wondering, because that would be a big difference.

-Cody

 

Another, more telling view:


Click for larger

 

From all I have read the Rotary gets stronger with age because, as you pointed out, the sealing improves as the seals form with the hosing. This also seem to be what is reported during long term survey where the RX is getting better fuel economy and 0-60 times by the end of the tests.

I find it interesting that you refute this. What am I missing?

 

Based on the info you provided it is pretty obvious your engine is not meeting specs for one reason or another. That should be enough right there for action. The car is rated at 232 and most show 180 to 190 at the wheel. It is obvious that there is a problem based on your less then 140 out put. I would think intact manifold valving or CAT. Both could cause your dyno readings.

 

After Eight days Mazda told the dealer they will not fix/replace anything. "Everything about this engine tested 'normal'" is their excuse. :-/

I have an appointment to speak with a district guy, but I'm not holding my breath for anything good to come of this.

 

Mazda sucks! My regional rep has not returned my call so I hope you have better luck.

If you do have the HP dyno in hand and the HP of the car is stated in the manual. You have proof the car is not meeting specifications. You have a leg to stand on here.

Worst case senior is you pay to have the work done then recoup the cost in court. Just make sure you have a provable case.

 

Sounds like BS to me.....there is no way that dyno graph was normal...

If it was me...I'd pull the cat and put in a midpipe to test and see if it runs better. Maybe even a dyno. Did they pull the CAT and visually inspect it?? The stupid thing can be plugged and still get normal feedback if the front brick is OK.