syn oil how many miles?
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From: orlando, fl
Originally Posted by Ike
Why do you want to know... This thread didn't say anything about a specific car


btw, still likein the evo???
beers
im not sure whats in my car....and im not sure what im going to change the oil to....but....i know that it had 9.5k on it when i bought it and at 10k im changing it, i was thinking of going with a 0w-20 or 0w-30 synthetic due to it being some of the thinnest oil you can buy for start ups, no oil is too thin at room temp to provide adequate lubrication on start up but the faster it gets to that point the better, the only thing i worry about is if the synth creates more or less build up when its burned.....we shall see....but judging by the responses here, i dont think its going to be a problem....
Last edited by tournapart; Dec 15, 2006 at 12:27 AM.
can someone fill me in.....I always thought synthetic was bad for the engine. i'm guessing it is fine? and also, what would be the advantage of synthetic over the regular stuff? i feel really dumb asking this
Prepare yourself for an onslaught of "Search" posts. :-)
Synthetic oil libricates better than regular oil. Regular oil is a distilled mix of molecules, synthetic is cracked and synthesized to molecules that have the best lube qualities. Synthetics will go longer between changes, which does lead to political issues vs manufacturers recommended oil change intervals.
Some early versions of synthetic were not kind to the seals in earlier rotaries. More recently, some brands of synthetics supposedly build up carbon in the Renesis ports.
Look for Rotrarygod's cumulative thread on synthetic oils. That will catch you up on all the pros and cons.
Personally, I use name-brand regular oil and change it at the "severe service" intervals. Never had a lubrication-related problem in over 40 years, and have one car with over 200,000 miles. But I don't run my cars that hard.
Ken
Synthetic oil libricates better than regular oil. Regular oil is a distilled mix of molecules, synthetic is cracked and synthesized to molecules that have the best lube qualities. Synthetics will go longer between changes, which does lead to political issues vs manufacturers recommended oil change intervals.
Some early versions of synthetic were not kind to the seals in earlier rotaries. More recently, some brands of synthetics supposedly build up carbon in the Renesis ports.
Look for Rotrarygod's cumulative thread on synthetic oils. That will catch you up on all the pros and cons.
Personally, I use name-brand regular oil and change it at the "severe service" intervals. Never had a lubrication-related problem in over 40 years, and have one car with over 200,000 miles. But I don't run my cars that hard.
Ken
Originally Posted by mysql101
^ Syn also provides better cooling to the engine than non synthetic.
Oil Viscosity impacts cooling - thinner oils flow faster, therefore cools more.
If you are implying that synthetics are generally thinner within the weight rating (being a little thinner 30 weight for instance), then this may be marginally true.
Synthetics do not cool better just because they are synthetic, in that they do not carry more heat away than a dino of equivalent weight.
Originally Posted by Jax_RX8
Synthetics do not cool better just because they are synthetic, in that they do not carry more heat away than a dino of equivalent weight.
Also because there is reduced foaming, you have less bubbles that cause temps to rise.
I do agree that synthetic has the edge over regular motor oil and should be especially good in the rotary. The only thing we are missing is a couple of motors torn down showing no ill long term effects from synthetic. The fact that older rotaries had no problems is no indicator that the Renesis will not. The only tear down I have seen was from Mazda which showed a gummy deposit. I do believe that this comes from only specific oils and RP is probably a good choice but until we see proof this is all speculation.


