Raevik

Ok, so lets look at some "solutions" to carbon build up:

-running high quality fuels (especially fuels with Techron). Does this mean it's better to go with Techron fuels rather than a Shell brand?

-driving hard intermittently to "blow out" carbon build up.

-Fuel grade? I actually had my dealer instruct me to use 87 octane for precisely this reason, though we've all seen many times that dealerships often can't tell their *** from their elbow. Thoughts on this?

-frequent oil changes

unpocoloco

okay, so here's a question I've had for a while. Once you switch to synthetic, can you not go back to regular oil? I've heard this, but not sure who the source was or how accurate that info is. I'd be more willing to give synthetic a try if it didn't mean I was stuck using synthetic from now on...

ZoomZoomH

iTrader: (1)

yes you can, how else do you think 'synthetic blend' oil are created

unpocoloco

There are a lot of chemical reactions where you can go A->B but not B->A. No matter how the synths are created...

ZoomZoomH

iTrader: (1)

group IV and group II/III oils are mixable....

yiksing

I sure hope someone sell a kit for the separate 2 stroke oil thingi, I'm getting tired of bringing my car to the dealer every 5000 km for a simple oil service.

deamicls

iTrader: (1)

Can you explain the above statement?

rotarygod

Yes you can go back and forth from synthetics to conventionals and vice versa. The question is that after you go synthetic, why would you want to go back?

New Yorker

"Thank you for taking the time to clarify this issue with us. To answer your
question, a number of years ago Mazda evaluated the performance of synthetic
oils and determined that their characteristics may result in lower
compression pressure or excess oil consumption due to insufficient
lubrication of the seals and the rotor surface. In fact, the recommendation
against the use of synthetics continues to stand for their RX7 and RX8
rotary engines today.

Although Castrol SYNTEC and SYNTEC Blend have been used successfully in
racing RX7 and RX8 vehicles with rotary engines, we cannot recommend the use
of Castrol SYNTEC and SYNTEC Blend in Mazda rotary engines, because we
respect the decision made by Mazda."

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Kind of like what Racing Beat did on their test stand when they were testing the MOP mod?

rx8wannahave

^that's why I don't go syntec...I don't need too add possible cheap reasons for Mazda not to honor my warranty.

HeavyMetal699

My only problem with modifying the MOP is returning it back to stock in case i want to sell the car. It would be nice to have an adaptor to go in between so i dont have to worry about it much at all. Plus if i ever need major warranty work it would be easier to remove an adaptor and a reservoir than hiding holes drilled into the MOP itself.

solito77

RG- Hi, I just want to be sure of this...
"One way to really get rid of this carbon issue is to run 2 stroke oil premixed in the gas. This assumes of course that you are no longer using the factory oil metering system."

Can I use premix? ...Stock MT w/RB Exhaust and RP Supercat. I have been using dino oil and at 30,000, have soot in my pipe ends.

THANKS!

RazzyBRX-8

I just started reading this and I know it's way late, but...

Is this a great find that we should use Fully Synthetic oil?

I did read this entire thread.

hoosier

My thoughts on this. I don't think that oil is the cause of carbon buildup. Going from dino oil to synthetic should not be a problem as far as mixing oils, you can mix them together and should have no problem. Last time I read something about this, the best results were with synthetic for lubrication. The only time I have had problems mixing oils was with dino oils from different regions which can cause a reaction that looks like water has gotten in the oil. I switched from dino oil to synthetic on my cessna once and had a problem that many have had switching that caused the lifters to stick, don't know why, but it happened to others I knew but shouldn't be a problem for Renesis engines. I don't think there is a problem with switching back or forth.

From what I have read, Marvel Mystery Oil is mostly a stoddard solvent and was good at removing deposits from lead for engines that had cooler cylinders like some aircooled aircraft engines. Supposedly it will soak into carbon and loosen it up to pass through the exhaust. In hotter running water cooled engines you might want a heavier oil than MMO (just a guess here) for lubrication. MMO is supposed to be OK for cat converters and ox sensors. MMO has been used on aircraft engines to free up valves and rings, but these engines suffered from the effects of high lead fuel that did not run hot enough to burn them off. I have also read of an A&P mechanic that made alot of money off of people using MMO in thier aircraft and, according to him, left redish crystal like gobs in the cylinders.

The best fuel you should use would have the least amount of ash left over after burning, no MTBE, no metals, etc. I really don't know what the best fuel is but plan on looking into it. I agree that the carbon problem is due to the rich fuel mixture that our engines are tuned to, not the oil (unless your using way too much).

I am paranoid about taking care of my 8 but want to do the right thing. I don't think it will hurt premixing synth unless you use too much and I may do it in moderation yet. I think it may help with carbon buildup by helping move the carbon out of the system (like the MMO used to). A little oil in the chambers goes a long way and have read of rotary aircraft owners that have had the OMP quit and flew for 4 hours.

I have read that Mazda does not recommend synthetic oil in the engine. I am assuming that means in the crankcase. They use it in thier racing engines but run the engines at high rpm for long periods of time and produce high temps. For everyday road use, better fuel might be the best option.