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So Frustrated with the 8 :( (Must read)

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Old 08-07-2009, 02:37 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by onyx8
that is what is being suggested: That the dealership has neglected to use any intelligence or common sense in properly diagnosing the problem to begin with, which is likely the reason that he is having the same problems all over again.

Bunch of bs.
^ +1
Old 08-09-2009, 11:08 AM
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Im suggesting dealers know all along engines dont need to be replaced...just a real mechanic to do some work. But they'd rather replace the engines cuz they're good for nothing.
Old 08-09-2009, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by boizart1
Im suggesting dealers know all along engines dont need to be replaced...just a real mechanic to do some work. But they'd rather replace the engines cuz they're good for nothing.
I'm not sure Mazda trusts their techs enough to actually do work on the rotary, so it is just a full replacement.... maybe? I know I sure as hell don't trust Mazda techs with my engine, not after they have overfilled my oil on a couple occasions (different dealership each time)
Old 08-09-2009, 05:50 PM
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In Australia now (FINALLY) they are now recommending the following procedure in THIS ORDER First...for hard starting and or misfiring.

1. Check Battery Condition and Charge.
2. Check and or Replace Starter if Cranking RPM is low.
3. Check Spark Plugs..Renew if necessary.
4. Check Coils...Renew in Most cases..
5. Check Leads... Renew in Most Cases.

Next....if no better do vacuum or compression check.

Fail...engine replacement.
Old 08-09-2009, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Tigerfootball
I'm not sure Mazda trusts their techs enough to actually do work on the rotary, so it is just a full replacement.... maybe? I know I sure as hell don't trust Mazda techs with my engine, not after they have overfilled my oil on a couple occasions (different dealership each time)
i think guys that do lube jobs and the tech guys that hook up computers to see whats wrong are to different tittles one guy is certified gos to school the other does not.
Old 08-09-2009, 09:52 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rotaryPilot

So If I were at your condition I would do the following actions:

1- compression test of the new engine (may be a bad rebuild , it happens)
2- change ignition coils and spark plugs and plug wires
3- Inspect your cat (emissions, optical inspections , look inside it where it is possible)
4- Inspect fuel pump filter or even better change your fuel pump.


I guess that if you do 1 through 4 the problem should be found.
+1 ^ to all of the above mentioned. This is very good advice, I'd do the same thing, only because our club mechanic has also shared a little tid bits of knowledge about the car. The items above are topics he discusses often. Items 2 and 3 are worth checking, even if the symptoms appear unrelated.

If I were you, I'd get higher grade OEM replacement parts. The coils and wires are a fantastic item to upgrade. (I'm guessing, but I'd add a high end grounding kit on that list, perhaps a electronic OEM spark amplifier) - IMHO (I'm not a mechanic) it's one of those "always good to have" upgrades on the car. It's something I plan to do also.

Last edited by Gyro_Bot; 08-09-2009 at 10:03 PM.
Old 08-09-2009, 11:19 PM
  #32  
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The initial 03 RX-8's (MY04) Battery went from the original 50 AMP hour to a 75 Amp hour during production but kept the original Mitsubishi Starter motor.

Then they went to a modified Starter and kept the 75 AH Battery.

Series II (09) RX-8's had a 80 Amp Hour Battery and another Changed starter with a few common internal parts like the Armature from late Series I.

Unfortunately Mazda did not change the Starters and Batteries on a call back MY 04-05's, but waited till the Customer 'complained' of hard starting.

While many original RX-8's had the Starter/Battery combo's changed under their new car warranty there are still many early RX-8's that still have the "slow" package, particularly Auto's.

The issue being, although you may be able to start your car OK, the Alternator and Battery is not holding or supplying a sufficient charge rate (Amp hour), so you get this weak current most of the time, resulting in Poor Spark and Ignition performance.

IT IS A MUST TO HAVE THIS SORTED FIRST, OTHERWISE CHANGING OVER TO ANOTHER BRAND OF COILS OR LEADS IS NOT RECTIFYING THE ORIGINAL 'ELECTRICAL' CONDITION.

You are really doing it back-wards, always START at the 'Source" or beginning of your cars starting, charging and ignition system.
Old 08-09-2009, 11:25 PM
  #33  
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Forgot to ADD, when you also put extra load on your Electrical System, like night driving, headlights, stereo's, wipers, etc, and add in Cold Weather the Alternator/ Battery and Starter can't cope.
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