"Short Trip Driving Procedure"?
09-22-2003, 09:46 PM
#52
So many roads to ride...
I think it's great to give the car a minute or five to warm up. Go ahead and listen to it, check the tires, and look at it when you have to move to wash your wife's car....take a bit of time to check out the car....just don't walk away and leave it running all day, you old fart! 
09-23-2003, 05:11 AM
#53
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Re: Flooded
Originally posted by LL7
Just want to let you know that they are not kidding with the advice not to just back it out of the garage. I did this to wash it. Several hours later pulled it back in. The next day pulled it out again to clean the garage. Went to pull it back in several hours later. It started, but stalled as soon as I let the clutch out. After this it would not start.
Just want to let you know that they are not kidding with the advice not to just back it out of the garage. I did this to wash it. Several hours later pulled it back in. The next day pulled it out again to clean the garage. Went to pull it back in several hours later. It started, but stalled as soon as I let the clutch out. After this it would not start.
I guess I can now forget about using the car valetting guys who visit where I work. How am I going to get them to follow "the procedure"?
09-23-2003, 06:23 AM
#54
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Re: Re: Flooded
Originally posted by ChrisW
Does anyone else think this is absurd in a modern car? Surely there is some kind of fix that Mazda could have come up with for this?
Does anyone else think this is absurd in a modern car? Surely there is some kind of fix that Mazda could have come up with for this?
09-23-2003, 10:29 AM
#55
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Originally posted by ProToolsKid
yesterday when I was test driving one they told me to do it this way.
1. start car
2. let it idle for a few seconds
3. rev and hold at 4K rpm for 10 sec
4. Rev up to redline for a split second
5. ready to move.
yesterday when I was test driving one they told me to do it this way.
1. start car
2. let it idle for a few seconds
3. rev and hold at 4K rpm for 10 sec
4. Rev up to redline for a split second
5. ready to move.
The ECU & the engine know what to do of each other.
Do the following little test:
1. Start the engine in the morning, or after a long period of being parked.
2. Release the clutch (DUH!)
3. Look at the Tach..
a. The rpms stay put on 2K for a couple seconds
b. Then they drop to 1K & quickly climb up to 2K.
c. After what seems to be 20 seconds of idle time, the rpms finally go down to 1.3K
d. Once the engine rpms are normalized you are MORE than alright to start driving.
4. Whats the temperature? it hasn't even moved from the far left (COLD AS ICE) area; however, the engine 'knows' that its ready to go. Once you drive a mile the engine will be at operating temperature (colder weathers than TX might have to adjust to ambient temperature.)
09-23-2003, 10:36 AM
#56
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Just as a side note for you guys who don't like having to check your oil constantly... Be happy you don't drive a VTEC!
Hondas VTEC engines, especially the 2.2L in the Prelude, is an oil hog! It's a known characteristic of the engine and just a fact of life for us. My car will drink 3 quarts in 3000 miles easy! Of course, it's directly related to how often you drive the car on the top end, when the VTEC is engaged.. and I'm up there rather often
So.. it aint so bad
Hondas VTEC engines, especially the 2.2L in the Prelude, is an oil hog! It's a known characteristic of the engine and just a fact of life for us. My car will drink 3 quarts in 3000 miles easy! Of course, it's directly related to how often you drive the car on the top end, when the VTEC is engaged.. and I'm up there rather often
So.. it aint so bad
09-23-2003, 12:01 PM
#57
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Every RX-7 I've had was very sensitive to this (I've had 4). The result of not warming it up for at least a couple minutes is usually hard starting, smoking, etc. My '86 would flood out but this was more of an issue with sticking injectors common to the 2nd gen RX-7. My '93 does not like it as well (hard starting, some smoke). Same with my '79 and an '84 which I had. Yes, annoying in a modern auto but one of the quirks you have to live with when you have a rotary engine. Just warm it up for at least a minute or more and you won't have any issues...
09-23-2003, 06:03 PM
#58
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I've actually started my car up, pulled it out of the garage to wash it and tunred it off 30 sec later... done this several times already and didn't even have a hint of a problem < shrug >
09-23-2003, 06:43 PM
#59
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> I've actually started my car up, pulled it out of the garage to wash it and
> tunred it off 30 sec later... done this several times already and didn't even
> have a hint of a problem < shrug >
The first 'hint' you'll have is that the engine will spin and spin and spin and not start. ;> Or it may start but run impossibly rough (If it's carbon fouled).
Rotaries just do this.. Keep the ATF on hand. ;>
Seriously, though, it's just like comparing the idiosyncrasies of a turboprop with a piston. 'But.. but.. we haven't had to pull the props through with a piston for years!'...
While engineering has advanced a great deal in the past hundred years, the rotary engine is still teething compared to the 'venerable' piston- And it hasn't had the usage base of the turbine to refine it as much.
Still, it's a fantastic engine and in my opinion a better inherent design than a boinger. Reciprocating mass is an engineering disaster. Give it time and we WILL see the rotary refined even more. For now, enjoy the benefits it DOES provide as all of us rotorheads (automotive and aeromotive) have, and respect its quirks.
-Kysh
> tunred it off 30 sec later... done this several times already and didn't even
> have a hint of a problem < shrug >
The first 'hint' you'll have is that the engine will spin and spin and spin and not start. ;> Or it may start but run impossibly rough (If it's carbon fouled).
Rotaries just do this.. Keep the ATF on hand. ;>
Seriously, though, it's just like comparing the idiosyncrasies of a turboprop with a piston. 'But.. but.. we haven't had to pull the props through with a piston for years!'...
While engineering has advanced a great deal in the past hundred years, the rotary engine is still teething compared to the 'venerable' piston- And it hasn't had the usage base of the turbine to refine it as much.
Still, it's a fantastic engine and in my opinion a better inherent design than a boinger. Reciprocating mass is an engineering disaster. Give it time and we WILL see the rotary refined even more. For now, enjoy the benefits it DOES provide as all of us rotorheads (automotive and aeromotive) have, and respect its quirks.
-Kysh
10-02-2019, 10:16 AM
#62
Thews8
The 4k rev tells the oil pump to dump oil in the system. It does this at 4k and higher in a larger volume. And it burns out the carbon and fuel. This is how Mazda recommends you move it to wash , etc on a car lot when its a cold car.. and works very well.. You do not need to Warm it up. its not about how warm it is. Its about the Revs.
10-02-2019, 10:10 PM
#63
The 4k rev tells the oil pump to dump oil in the system. It does this at 4k and higher in a larger volume. And it burns out the carbon and fuel. This is how Mazda recommends you move it to wash , etc on a car lot when its a cold car.. and works very well.. You do not need to Warm it up. its not about how warm it is. Its about the Revs.
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10-03-2019, 10:23 AM
#64
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The 4k rev tells the oil pump to dump oil in the system. It does this at 4k and higher in a larger volume. And it burns out the carbon and fuel. This is how Mazda recommends you move it to wash , etc on a car lot when its a cold car.. and works very well.. You do not need to Warm it up. its not about how warm it is. Its about the Revs.
10-03-2019, 04:19 PM
#66
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Assuming your car isn't working properly and you have to rev it to avoid flooding, the point isn't to hold the revs.
The point is to kill the engine when fuel isn't being injected. So, blip the throttle up to 3k-4k and then kill it while the revs are dropping.
The point is to kill the engine when fuel isn't being injected. So, blip the throttle up to 3k-4k and then kill it while the revs are dropping.
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