Severed engine, anywhere to get a new one?
11-02-2010, 10:45 AM
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Severed engine, anywhere to get a new one?
Like topic states, my mazda dealer found metal splinters in the rear rotor chamber, and stated I need a new engine.
I dunno if this is the correct place to put this post but does any of u know where I can get my hands on a new engine, rebuilt or not, I'm on a kinda tight budget but it it comes up to 3 grand I can manage that
I dunno if this is the correct place to put this post but does any of u know where I can get my hands on a new engine, rebuilt or not, I'm on a kinda tight budget but it it comes up to 3 grand I can manage that
11-02-2010, 10:51 AM
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I would say, check the for sale section, but shipping will kill your budget if it's going from the states to norway. Start checking local wrecking yards first, then maybe you're regional subforum. Mazmart and Mazdatrix can probably ship you something too.
Good Luck man
Good Luck man
11-02-2010, 10:52 AM
#3
If your car is no longer under warranty you may consider getting it from Mazda or ask Mazmart here for a rebuilt unit.
The prices in europe are pretty affordable but the quality of a unit rebuilt by Mazmart is well worth the -eventual- price difference.
I have a couple of engines right now that I may want to sell, both have slightly low compression though so they may be ok if your intent is to sell the car after the engine replacement.
@fuztupnz: Mazmart is a golden resource for us europeans when it comes to buying big pieces of metal like engines and transmissions
The prices in europe are pretty affordable but the quality of a unit rebuilt by Mazmart is well worth the -eventual- price difference.
I have a couple of engines right now that I may want to sell, both have slightly low compression though so they may be ok if your intent is to sell the car after the engine replacement.
@fuztupnz: Mazmart is a golden resource for us europeans when it comes to buying big pieces of metal like engines and transmissions
11-02-2010, 11:00 AM
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I won't be selling the car, I intend to get it back up and running, and the pricerange was for the engine, shipping wil offc come on top of that.
11-02-2010, 11:29 AM
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11-02-2010, 12:06 PM
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11-02-2010, 01:12 PM
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Thank you for the sarcasm.
However there are a lot of reputable sellers on Ebay. There are several who specialize in rotaries, and one in particular I've bought parts from I can vouch for. His store name is mrmazda7.
However there are a lot of reputable sellers on Ebay. There are several who specialize in rotaries, and one in particular I've bought parts from I can vouch for. His store name is mrmazda7.
11-02-2010, 01:25 PM
#12
Shipping costs and warranties above all.
What if you buy an engine that's already on the edge and have to replace it soon?
Rotaries can be tricky to buy. What if the compression is fine but the engine was previously rebuilt and the housings have a lot of miles? What if the tolerances are too high or the side seals edges are worn? What if the engine was run with low OMP rates for a huge part of its life?
Sum up all of the above and you see why spending something more for a properly rebuilt unit is a wise move
11-02-2010, 01:39 PM
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My sarcasm has got solid points though:
Shipping costs and warranties above all.
What if you buy an engine that's already on the edge and have to replace it soon?
Rotaries can be tricky to buy. What if the compression is fine but the engine was previously rebuilt and the housings have a lot of miles? What if the tolerances are too high or the side seals edges are worn? What if the engine was run with low OMP rates for a huge part of its life?
Sum up all of the above and you see why spending something more for a properly rebuilt unit is a wise move
Shipping costs and warranties above all.
What if you buy an engine that's already on the edge and have to replace it soon?
Rotaries can be tricky to buy. What if the compression is fine but the engine was previously rebuilt and the housings have a lot of miles? What if the tolerances are too high or the side seals edges are worn? What if the engine was run with low OMP rates for a huge part of its life?
Sum up all of the above and you see why spending something more for a properly rebuilt unit is a wise move
Back where I am, we can get used RX8 engines through "junk importers" for about $1750 to be exact, usually these are low-mileage engines with about 20,000 KMs on the clock. Throw in about $300 worth of labor for the swap and you're done. Again these are used engines but most people have had excellent luck with them. At the same time if we rebuild an engine with certified imported parts it ends up costing $3,500 or so. Most people end up choosing the first option because its cheaper and reliable 90% of the time anyway.
Plus the op also mentioned he is tight on funds, which is why I suggested ebay to begin with
Just my 0.02C, the op doesn't have to buy an engine off ebay because I suggested it
11-02-2010, 01:40 PM
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Sarcasm or not, I'd never buy an engine from someone unknown or without a good reputation. With as many scams as there are surrounding ebay, I don't know that I'd even buy valve stems on there anymore.
bse50 is dead on. Get an engine that you can trust to be done correctly.
bse50 is dead on. Get an engine that you can trust to be done correctly.
11-02-2010, 01:55 PM
#15
Your concerns are valid to a certain extent & no one is saying getting a "properly rebuilt" engine from Mazmart or whoever is wrong. However I've had hands on experience with rotary rebuilds (in a country which has absolutely no rotary support at all, or a Mazda dealer for that matter); including that with an RX7 and a couple of RX8s where often I sourced parts from Ebay. It is not rare to find a low mileage engine for as low as $1900 shipped.
Back where I am, we can get used RX8 engines through "junk importers" for about $1750 to be exact, usually these are low-mileage engines with about 20,000 KMs on the clock. Throw in about $300 worth of labor for the swap and you're done. Again these are used engines but most people have had excellent luck with them. At the same time if we rebuild an engine with certified imported parts it ends up costing $3,500 or so. Most people end up choosing the first option because its cheaper and reliable 90% of the time anyway.
Plus the op also mentioned he is tight on funds, which is why I suggested ebay to begin with
Just my 0.02C, the op doesn't have to buy an engine off ebay because I suggested it
Back where I am, we can get used RX8 engines through "junk importers" for about $1750 to be exact, usually these are low-mileage engines with about 20,000 KMs on the clock. Throw in about $300 worth of labor for the swap and you're done. Again these are used engines but most people have had excellent luck with them. At the same time if we rebuild an engine with certified imported parts it ends up costing $3,500 or so. Most people end up choosing the first option because its cheaper and reliable 90% of the time anyway.
Plus the op also mentioned he is tight on funds, which is why I suggested ebay to begin with
Just my 0.02C, the op doesn't have to buy an engine off ebay because I suggested it
I did some rebuilds on my own for my buddies in the past couple of years but now, given the USD to EU conversion and the wonderful treatment that shops like Mazmart reserve to the european owners, i just point them to said stores.
The main point is that we're comparing an used engine to a unit that's probably even better than a new engine
11-02-2010, 02:00 PM
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Please take my apology for expressing myself like an ***, that's just me. Your points are valid too, that's for sure so i guess that it all comes down to the overall life expectancy and budget we have.
I did some rebuilds on my own for my buddies in the past couple of years but now, given the USD to EU conversion and the wonderful treatment that shops like Mazmart reserve to the european owners, i just point them to said stores.
The main point is that we're comparing an used engine to a unit that's probably even better than a new engine
I did some rebuilds on my own for my buddies in the past couple of years but now, given the USD to EU conversion and the wonderful treatment that shops like Mazmart reserve to the european owners, i just point them to said stores.
The main point is that we're comparing an used engine to a unit that's probably even better than a new engine
11-02-2010, 02:10 PM
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regarding the splinters in the rear rotor chamber the dealer took out the sparkplugs just like I did to check that it wasn't only a spark plug gone wrong, they used a magnet to check inside the chamber through the spark plug hole, and when they dragged it back out again it had metal splinters on it, the engine is not opened or anything yet.
I've asked mazmart for a price for a engine shipped here and waiting for answer from him, I just wanted to know if there were more options, now I myself don't have the expertice to fix the engine myself I only have a good friend who works alot on turbocharged engines, but as far as I know, rebuilding this myself is not such good an idea, since it the clearances and etc, needs to be exact.
and thanks to all of u answering to this thread, whatever help is good help.
and yes I need an engine I can trust to work when it arrives.
I've asked mazmart for a price for a engine shipped here and waiting for answer from him, I just wanted to know if there were more options, now I myself don't have the expertice to fix the engine myself I only have a good friend who works alot on turbocharged engines, but as far as I know, rebuilding this myself is not such good an idea, since it the clearances and etc, needs to be exact.
and thanks to all of u answering to this thread, whatever help is good help.
and yes I need an engine I can trust to work when it arrives.
11-02-2010, 02:35 PM
#18
The tolerances etc are the easiest part, the real problem is the rebuild cost per se, along with the rebuild as a "total".
What if you discover that a side plate, a housing or something else needs to be replaced? Those parts cost a lot and absolutely kill the advantage of rebuilding your own engine. Skipping their replacements makes any build a ghetto fix imho.
Where are you located by the way? (edit: i'm stupid)
What if you discover that a side plate, a housing or something else needs to be replaced? Those parts cost a lot and absolutely kill the advantage of rebuilding your own engine. Skipping their replacements makes any build a ghetto fix imho.
Where are you located by the way? (edit: i'm stupid)
Last edited by bse50; 11-02-2010 at 02:42 PM.
11-02-2010, 03:01 PM
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I'm located in northern norway, it's snow here already
from what I know as of now, the engine starts but only runs on one rotor, and the dealership found metal splints in the rear one, so I have no idea of knowing what to find if I open it up, neither do I kow if the front rotor chamber and such have any damage, the rear rotor stopped running in speed, so the engine just died out, and the engine check light came on.
If it would save me any money I would gladly fly someone up here to do this work so I could educate myself from it, but i do not know the costs of flights and such nor if I could save anything on it, didn't charles himself fly around rebuildling engines once or twice a month?
from what I know as of now, the engine starts but only runs on one rotor, and the dealership found metal splints in the rear one, so I have no idea of knowing what to find if I open it up, neither do I kow if the front rotor chamber and such have any damage, the rear rotor stopped running in speed, so the engine just died out, and the engine check light came on.
If it would save me any money I would gladly fly someone up here to do this work so I could educate myself from it, but i do not know the costs of flights and such nor if I could save anything on it, didn't charles himself fly around rebuildling engines once or twice a month?
11-02-2010, 03:16 PM
#21
I'm located in northern norway, it's snow here already
from what I know as of now, the engine starts but only runs on one rotor, and the dealership found metal splints in the rear one, so I have no idea of knowing what to find if I open it up, neither do I kow if the front rotor chamber and such have any damage, the rear rotor stopped running in speed, so the engine just died out, and the engine check light came on.
If it would save me any money I would gladly fly someone up here to do this work so I could educate myself from it, but i do not know the costs of flights and such nor if I could save anything on it, didn't charles himself fly around rebuildling engines once or twice a month?
from what I know as of now, the engine starts but only runs on one rotor, and the dealership found metal splints in the rear one, so I have no idea of knowing what to find if I open it up, neither do I kow if the front rotor chamber and such have any damage, the rear rotor stopped running in speed, so the engine just died out, and the engine check light came on.
If it would save me any money I would gladly fly someone up here to do this work so I could educate myself from it, but i do not know the costs of flights and such nor if I could save anything on it, didn't charles himself fly around rebuildling engines once or twice a month?
Even if a guy like me flew to your place the 250 or so € of the ticket added to the cost of the rebuild would make it useless (and I can say that I can't hold a candle to guys like Charles, Rick and Paul @ Mazmart etc).
Given your location even towing the car to the UK would be expensive
Your best bet is to wait for Mazmart's reply, i'm sure you'll love their service!
11-03-2010, 10:31 AM
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Ok so I just heard from an workshop down south that specializes in rotary engines that my car apparantly has had an fault with the ecu all along.
he said that the oil usage of the car should be app. 1 liter per 5000 km wich would be about 3125 miles, and mine has used about 1 liter on 2000 km, wich would be about 1250 miles.
and the gasoline use on city driving should be 1,2l per 10km wich would be 6,25 miles and mine used 2,5 liter.
he stated that this was a service that should have been taken on all cars as soon as they came to the dealership for a service, dunno if it's a fact or not, cause he ment this is why my engine is blown, since use of too much oil and gasoline creates carbonic layers in the chamber wich crushes the apex seals and so on (I think u get what I mean)
In case, would there be a way for me to get this done at mazda's expence if this turns out to be true?
on the other hand the oil changes haven't been done at the dealer so I might not get any way with it since I didn't get the 60 000 km service done there
he said that the oil usage of the car should be app. 1 liter per 5000 km wich would be about 3125 miles, and mine has used about 1 liter on 2000 km, wich would be about 1250 miles.
and the gasoline use on city driving should be 1,2l per 10km wich would be 6,25 miles and mine used 2,5 liter.
he stated that this was a service that should have been taken on all cars as soon as they came to the dealership for a service, dunno if it's a fact or not, cause he ment this is why my engine is blown, since use of too much oil and gasoline creates carbonic layers in the chamber wich crushes the apex seals and so on (I think u get what I mean)
In case, would there be a way for me to get this done at mazda's expence if this turns out to be true?
on the other hand the oil changes haven't been done at the dealer so I might not get any way with it since I didn't get the 60 000 km service done there
11-03-2010, 12:33 PM
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Ok so I just heard from an workshop down south that specializes in rotary engines that my car apparantly has had an fault with the ecu all along.
he said that the oil usage of the car should be app. 1 liter per 5000 km wich would be about 3125 miles, and mine has used about 1 liter on 2000 km, wich would be about 1250 miles.
and the gasoline use on city driving should be 1,2l per 10km wich would be 6,25 miles and mine used 2,5 liter.
he stated that this was a service that should have been taken on all cars as soon as they came to the dealership for a service, dunno if it's a fact or not, cause he ment this is why my engine is blown, since use of too much oil and gasoline creates carbonic layers in the chamber wich crushes the apex seals and so on (I think u get what I mean)
In case, would there be a way for me to get this done at mazda's expence if this turns out to be true?
on the other hand the oil changes haven't been done at the dealer so I might not get any way with it since I didn't get the 60 000 km service done there
he said that the oil usage of the car should be app. 1 liter per 5000 km wich would be about 3125 miles, and mine has used about 1 liter on 2000 km, wich would be about 1250 miles.
and the gasoline use on city driving should be 1,2l per 10km wich would be 6,25 miles and mine used 2,5 liter.
he stated that this was a service that should have been taken on all cars as soon as they came to the dealership for a service, dunno if it's a fact or not, cause he ment this is why my engine is blown, since use of too much oil and gasoline creates carbonic layers in the chamber wich crushes the apex seals and so on (I think u get what I mean)
In case, would there be a way for me to get this done at mazda's expence if this turns out to be true?
on the other hand the oil changes haven't been done at the dealer so I might not get any way with it since I didn't get the 60 000 km service done there
The prevailing problem with rx8s is that they do not burn ENOUGH oil. They should burn about a quart per 1000 miles and instead they usually burn a quart in 3-4000 miles. The seals do not get enough lubrication and they wear out too soon, lowering compression.
All rotaries will get bad gas mileage, whether they are new, used, rebuilt, whatever. Some will do slightly better than others.
I believe your mechanic is thinking about the PCM flash/tune that was updated as soon as the car hit the port of destination after being built in japan, for the 04 (and 05?) models. That flash changed the hp levels and emissions, and possible took away some of the oil lubrication that mazda had originally programmed the car with. I would not expect you to be able to get mazda to cover the engine based on that though, as all the early models went through that. It depends on the warranty in your country though.
The problem with rebuilding rx8 engines is finding good enough rotor housings to build a tight engine. These cars are VERY intolerant of weak compression. To run properly the engine has to be strong and tight. That is hard to accomplish when building with used rotor housings. These housings tend to have a lot of cracking at the leading sparkplug holes and also some edge wear and chrome flaking, more so than the older rx7 engines normally have.
Last edited by RotaryResurrection; 12-30-2010 at 01:34 PM.
11-03-2010, 01:06 PM
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k, not much to go on there then I guess, I'll have mazmart send me a new core then, hopefully that will be an improvement to the one I have had for 82k km.
My only consern now is putting over the other parts now, and starting the new core, it's gonna be exiting.
One more thing, I will be getting the BHR ignition upgrade and the cobb AP, the thing I was wondering about was if the map I'll be using with that is much different from the original one. I've seen ppl here in norway that loves it and states it's more efficient on mileage and easier starting the engine with it as well... any hard facts here to state for me?
My only consern now is putting over the other parts now, and starting the new core, it's gonna be exiting.
One more thing, I will be getting the BHR ignition upgrade and the cobb AP, the thing I was wondering about was if the map I'll be using with that is much different from the original one. I've seen ppl here in norway that loves it and states it's more efficient on mileage and easier starting the engine with it as well... any hard facts here to state for me?
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