Seafoam!!!
12-24-2007, 11:15 AM
#30
INDY RX8 CLUB - Officer
I used the vfad npple behind the throttle body once... Used 1 can per half tank once... I also got seafoam deep-creep (seafoam in an aerosal can) pulled the leading plugs and sprayed each chamber while hand rotating the engine to saok each chamber. This seems the best method from seat of the pants.
Comp numbers before the first 2 treatments (vfad and gas tank):
ROTOR 1 - 323 RPMs
7.9
7.7
7.5
ROTOR 2 - 321 RPMS
7.5
7.8
7.7
After the first 2 treatment methods:
R1 @ 292
7.7
7.7
7.7
R2 @ 293
7.6
7.5
8.0
Better in that the numbers are fairly even and also improved in some areas despite spinning 30 rpms lower. I know these are low, but the current dealer I am using has pretty much insisted it is normal and don't want to do anything further about it. I will be going to another dealership soon to get a 3rd comp test done (and second set of motor mounts!) Before I go in, I'll do another fogging treatment with seafoam deep-creep to see if those numbers get any better. I have no idle or powerloss issues, so carbon build up seems likely... or rx7 plugs distorted the housing
Comp numbers before the first 2 treatments (vfad and gas tank):
ROTOR 1 - 323 RPMs
7.9
7.7
7.5
ROTOR 2 - 321 RPMS
7.5
7.8
7.7
After the first 2 treatment methods:
R1 @ 292
7.7
7.7
7.7
R2 @ 293
7.6
7.5
8.0
Better in that the numbers are fairly even and also improved in some areas despite spinning 30 rpms lower. I know these are low, but the current dealer I am using has pretty much insisted it is normal and don't want to do anything further about it. I will be going to another dealership soon to get a 3rd comp test done (and second set of motor mounts!) Before I go in, I'll do another fogging treatment with seafoam deep-creep to see if those numbers get any better. I have no idle or powerloss issues, so carbon build up seems likely... or rx7 plugs distorted the housing
12-24-2007, 12:50 PM
#31
Really, the best method is to pull the plugs and upper intake manifold and pump the stuff into the plug holes and pour it into the manifold while cranking the motor with a torque wrench. You want to seemingly hydro-lock the motor with the stuff (though you won't with the plugs out).
Let it sit over night and then, with the ESS unplugged (and the plugs still out), crank the motor until it all weeps out.
Then put it all together and start her up.
It'll be pretty spectacular.
Let it sit over night and then, with the ESS unplugged (and the plugs still out), crank the motor until it all weeps out.
Then put it all together and start her up.
It'll be pretty spectacular.
03-23-2008, 04:22 PM
#37
Lubricious
Join Date: Oct 2003
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Seeing as how the latest Mazda TSB has given us a formalized de-carbon procedure, I decided to go ahead. I tried to follow the procedure as close as I could.
Exceptions:
1 - seemed reasonable to use SeaFoam instead of the "official Mazda engine cleaner". Also, it's much easier to find SeaFoam in the bottle than the "deep creep spray", so I picked up a 16 oz bottle. So, instead of spraying it into the ports, I used a 2 OZ syringe (easy to find at carparts or garden center -- they're used for mixing 2-stroke oil). Instead of the 10-seconds sprays I injected 2 OZ over 10 seconds of cranking. Following the procedure twice per rotor, for a total of 8 OZ of SeaFoam injected. This seems about right as Mazda claims 1 spray can services 2 engines.
2 - The eccentric shaft position sensor connector is a PITA to get to. I removed the plug wires instead.
Other than that I followed the instructions pretty closely. This seems more reasonable to me than sucking into a running engine. Gives it much more time to soak and loosen carbon deposits. Don't ignore the instructions about disconnecting the secondary air injection pump. This helps keep cat temps from soaring while you're purging all the unburnt seafoam from the system. Taking it easy during warmup is also intended to protect the cat. And I imagine the revs back and forth to 6000 rpm are designed to exercise the seals in their slots and work lose the carbon.
Warning - I'd definitely not do this in the driveway if you've got neighbors closer than 100 yards. The amount of smoke is fearsome and I had to apologize several times. Lucky that someone didn't call the fire department. If I do this again, it will be somewhere out away from houses. Just look for "seafoam" on youtube and you'll get the idea.
Results -- Engine was running ok to begin with but I figured this might be a good preventive maintenance as I'm at 30,000 miles. I do think it is idling smoother and accelerates smoother at low speeds. I also haven't heard the little "startup chirp" that I was getting sometimes.
Exceptions:
1 - seemed reasonable to use SeaFoam instead of the "official Mazda engine cleaner". Also, it's much easier to find SeaFoam in the bottle than the "deep creep spray", so I picked up a 16 oz bottle. So, instead of spraying it into the ports, I used a 2 OZ syringe (easy to find at carparts or garden center -- they're used for mixing 2-stroke oil). Instead of the 10-seconds sprays I injected 2 OZ over 10 seconds of cranking. Following the procedure twice per rotor, for a total of 8 OZ of SeaFoam injected. This seems about right as Mazda claims 1 spray can services 2 engines.
2 - The eccentric shaft position sensor connector is a PITA to get to. I removed the plug wires instead.
Other than that I followed the instructions pretty closely. This seems more reasonable to me than sucking into a running engine. Gives it much more time to soak and loosen carbon deposits. Don't ignore the instructions about disconnecting the secondary air injection pump. This helps keep cat temps from soaring while you're purging all the unburnt seafoam from the system. Taking it easy during warmup is also intended to protect the cat. And I imagine the revs back and forth to 6000 rpm are designed to exercise the seals in their slots and work lose the carbon.
Warning - I'd definitely not do this in the driveway if you've got neighbors closer than 100 yards. The amount of smoke is fearsome and I had to apologize several times. Lucky that someone didn't call the fire department. If I do this again, it will be somewhere out away from houses. Just look for "seafoam" on youtube and you'll get the idea.
Results -- Engine was running ok to begin with but I figured this might be a good preventive maintenance as I'm at 30,000 miles. I do think it is idling smoother and accelerates smoother at low speeds. I also haven't heard the little "startup chirp" that I was getting sometimes.
03-23-2008, 05:11 PM
#40
I do it differently, but I'll try to make a video when I do it next time.
I intend to do it over and over again to see if there is a progressive improvement.
This was my compression check on Friday:
FRONT:
768 kpa - 111 PSI
779 kpa - 113 PSI
848 kpa - 123 PSI
REAR:
825 kpa - 119 PSI
825 kpa - 119 PSI
779 kpa - 113 PSI
Looks like a sticky apex seal on the front (even though the numbers are actually pretty good).
I SeaFoamed it after that and I'll do it again on Tuesday.
I intend to do it over and over again to see if there is a progressive improvement.
This was my compression check on Friday:
FRONT:
768 kpa - 111 PSI
779 kpa - 113 PSI
848 kpa - 123 PSI
REAR:
825 kpa - 119 PSI
825 kpa - 119 PSI
779 kpa - 113 PSI
Looks like a sticky apex seal on the front (even though the numbers are actually pretty good).
I SeaFoamed it after that and I'll do it again on Tuesday.
03-23-2008, 06:42 PM
#41
Lubricious
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03-23-2008, 06:56 PM
#42
It should be really hard to start.
If it started right up, most of the SeaFoam was probably draining into the exhaust manifold.
I fill each combustion chamber (with a HOT motor) with 2.5 oz through the spark plug holes using the pressure side of a Mighty-Vac.
I then crank the motor backwards one complete turn of the crank pulley with a 1" socket on the alternator and then do the next combustion chambers.
I let it sit for a few minutes before I go for the third so that the stuff can penetrate before it all gets dumped into the exhaust ports on the third complete turn of the crank.
Then, I let it sit for several hours (until the block is less than 90°F) then crank it up.
If it started right up, most of the SeaFoam was probably draining into the exhaust manifold.
I fill each combustion chamber (with a HOT motor) with 2.5 oz through the spark plug holes using the pressure side of a Mighty-Vac.
I then crank the motor backwards one complete turn of the crank pulley with a 1" socket on the alternator and then do the next combustion chambers.
I let it sit for a few minutes before I go for the third so that the stuff can penetrate before it all gets dumped into the exhaust ports on the third complete turn of the crank.
Then, I let it sit for several hours (until the block is less than 90°F) then crank it up.
03-23-2008, 08:29 PM
#45
9K-RDLN
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I put Seafoam in my last car that I traded in and that car had 149xxx miles. Seafoam gave it life, I also didnot add seafoam in the vacuum line and Iam still waiting to go through the take i just mixed with seafoam but Iam sure it will do its job. The largest Mazda dealer in STL and its head mechanic told me seafoam would be just fine in the RX-8
03-23-2008, 08:48 PM
#46
I don't exactly know mazda's standard policies on this, but I'm wondering if it's possible to get the numbers for the compression test on my engine. As the car owner, you think they have to give me that information?
I'm not positive but I've probably had a comp. test done at some point because I had that original engines-may-have-to-be-replaced recall inspection done (it passed) and I also recently had to bring it in to be de-flooded (at 51k miles).
I'm just curious because I'd like to also get some before-and-after numbers when I do this de-carb procedure. Mostly though, it would be good information just for general engine health and all that.
Also, would it be weird/suspicious if I asked them to do it next time I had the car in?
I'm not positive but I've probably had a comp. test done at some point because I had that original engines-may-have-to-be-replaced recall inspection done (it passed) and I also recently had to bring it in to be de-flooded (at 51k miles).
I'm just curious because I'd like to also get some before-and-after numbers when I do this de-carb procedure. Mostly though, it would be good information just for general engine health and all that.
Also, would it be weird/suspicious if I asked them to do it next time I had the car in?
03-24-2008, 09:39 AM
#50
It should be really hard to start.
If it started right up, most of the SeaFoam was probably draining into the exhaust manifold.
I fill each combustion chamber (with a HOT motor) with 2.5 oz through the spark plug holes using the pressure side of a Mighty-Vac.
I then crank the motor backwards one complete turn of the crank pulley with a 1" socket on the alternator and then do the next combustion chambers.
I let it sit for a few minutes before I go for the third so that the stuff can penetrate before it all gets dumped into the exhaust ports on the third complete turn of the crank.
Then, I let it sit for several hours (until the block is less than 90°F) then crank it up.
If it started right up, most of the SeaFoam was probably draining into the exhaust manifold.
I fill each combustion chamber (with a HOT motor) with 2.5 oz through the spark plug holes using the pressure side of a Mighty-Vac.
I then crank the motor backwards one complete turn of the crank pulley with a 1" socket on the alternator and then do the next combustion chambers.
I let it sit for a few minutes before I go for the third so that the stuff can penetrate before it all gets dumped into the exhaust ports on the third complete turn of the crank.
Then, I let it sit for several hours (until the block is less than 90°F) then crank it up.
When you say crank it up, is that with the ESS still unplugged. Also just crank on the alternator pulley to crank the engine, I'm not getting how you manually crank over the engine do I need it on jackstands? Sorry for the questions, but I want to do this properly.