Rustproofing?
#1
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Rustproofing?
Has anyone done this, especially for oil cooler lines? I do not want the same corrosion that happened to my previous set, or should I just spray my underbody with water every couple weeks during the winter to keep the salt off?
#4
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Only so much can be done, but a lot can be.
1) Water rinse is helpful after salt exposure.
2) My Canadian friends swear by treatments from a place called Oil Gard. http://www.oilgard.com/ Not legal in they USA, but if you're in Canada sometime, it's worth a shot.
3) If the weather is salty/slushy/snowy, don't park in a warm garage. Better frozen water under the car than wet.
4) WD-40 and the like are useless. Even normal grease will magically disappear. The magic bullet is boat trailer wheel bearing grease. I put it on every normal nut and bolt that I remove, before reassembling. (Use the lowest value of torque specs afterwards since torque values are given for dry threads.) High temp surfaces though will boil it off. Coat things like the oil cooler fittings every 6 months or so. Eventually it builds up a patena that's pretty rust resistant on it's own. Clean and shiny though it's not.
I ran an Audi quattro 23 years this way, and my Toyota is still good at 14 years.
1) Water rinse is helpful after salt exposure.
2) My Canadian friends swear by treatments from a place called Oil Gard. http://www.oilgard.com/ Not legal in they USA, but if you're in Canada sometime, it's worth a shot.
3) If the weather is salty/slushy/snowy, don't park in a warm garage. Better frozen water under the car than wet.
4) WD-40 and the like are useless. Even normal grease will magically disappear. The magic bullet is boat trailer wheel bearing grease. I put it on every normal nut and bolt that I remove, before reassembling. (Use the lowest value of torque specs afterwards since torque values are given for dry threads.) High temp surfaces though will boil it off. Coat things like the oil cooler fittings every 6 months or so. Eventually it builds up a patena that's pretty rust resistant on it's own. Clean and shiny though it's not.
I ran an Audi quattro 23 years this way, and my Toyota is still good at 14 years.
#5
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iTrader: (1)
Yes, rustproof it (please). Krown is good, it's a liquid oil that gets into everything. If you park indoors, keep it very clean, if you park outdoors wash it on mild days.
Another little trick: apply bearing grease behind the fenders, press it into the fender lip corner. That's the most vulnerable area (aside from oil coolers.. apparently).
Another little trick: apply bearing grease behind the fenders, press it into the fender lip corner. That's the most vulnerable area (aside from oil coolers.. apparently).
#6
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Thread Starter
OK, I also heard from my trusted source, Google, that a good combination is kerosene and old motor oil? So instead of doing this approach I will look at the Krown product and the boat trailer grease.
EDIT: where would I buy Krown anyways? Their main website seems down.
EDIT: where would I buy Krown anyways? Their main website seems down.
Last edited by JamesD31; 01-08-2013 at 06:15 PM.
#9
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
All i know is it usually rust faster when you live near an ocean... Why Does a Car Rust Faster at the Seaside? - Vol. 133 | PicknBuy24.com
#10
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I am from Chicago so we got the lake but that won't effect it much since the salt won't be in the air. The reason my car parts "rust" is probably cuz of the load of salt for when it snows here in Chicago. Either way, I will look into finding out if a shop Krown's around here.
#11
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You may wish to read the TSB on "Rear Fender Arch Rust". It includes some preventative measures which make a lot of sense:
https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...4/#post3322901
https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...4/#post3322901
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Dustin4u
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03-18-2004 06:18 AM