hi all

hoping to pick up some new spark plugs - going for the BUT-EQ7P (leading) and BUR-EQ9P (trailing) .... on the car itself how do i know which plug is which? Are there markings to easily tell wether the hole requires a leading or trailing plug?


Pics would be helpful thanks!

Jeff

 

the side of the engine has a T or a L

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...chmentid=21350

the 7 are leading and the 9 are trailing.

 

Go to DIY forum.

You need a wobble extension.

 

If you study the rotary and it's motion of rotation and phases, the rotors always compresses air on the side followed by the exhaust phase on the bottom of the housing. That means if you ever are lost... in a normal 13b setup fashion, the leading plugs are the plugs closest to the ground.

 

maybe its just me but if u dont kno leading from trailing you shouldnt be working on this car

 

why is that? How is someone supposed to learn and become knowledgable if they don't ask and try?

 

Everyone has to start somewhere. That he asked tells me he's got the brains to learn and do it right.

Plus, after what he went through with the smash-and-grab, a little intimate time with the mechanicals will be just what he and his 8 need.

Ken

 

Yeah, stupid statement for sure...The easiest way to remember trailing and leading is L=lower plugs and T=top plugs and it is really very easy.

 

I have seen two dif gap setting(.032-.036in). The owners manual says ".045-.049in"and change after 28-30 months or 35-37.5K miles. What are you useing? How many miles did you put on them?

 

I put 30K miles on the stock plugs - i did all my own 30K maintence, and the plugs are the last of this set of maintence items.

on and RoXanne - this is the first time ever changing the plugs in a rotary - thanks for your vote of confidence, now kindly go to hell.

A big thanks to all that chimed in - I will be replacing the plugs tommorow.

 

leading plugs are on the bottom... the oil pan side.. trailing are on the top... and a photo....

beers

 

I posted the same question. Excuse us novices for trying to learn. Isn't that what this forum is for? Gheesh. Sprout

 

Edited.
Didn't see the dates.

 

Mr. Sprout -

You are getting upset at a three year old post, check the dates.....

S

 

Sorry - Didn't check the post dates. Frustrated by the lack of help locally in central PA and got cranky. So...technically, what's the difference between the lead and trail? Ms. Sprout

 

That's how l do it :-)

 

Helpful and funny thread sort of.

 

Thank you very much for responding, and for ignoring my idiocy of responding negatively to a 3-year old post. Oops. So I see the L and T under there - swapping them should be very easy, but NAPA gave me 4 Ts. I'm just wondering what the difference is for the leaders. The physical geometry looks the same. Is it the gap or what?

 

While the outsides look the same, leading and trailing plugs have very different electrode types. If NAPA sold you four T's, go back and make them swap two of them for L's. T's are just wrong in the L position.

Don't worry about responding to an old post. It means you searched, which should earn you instant respect.

Ken

 

I found a good link in the DIY section here, this pic got me through my first coils/wires/plugs change(pic attached) btw rear plugs gotten from underneath front plugs got by removing front tire and the little rubber splash guard for easy access.

 

Thanks for the info ken x-8. newguy - that pic is highly useful. Gracias!

 

Did mine this weekend using this same format and it was very straight forward (plugs, wires and coils). Slow and easy doing one at a time is how I did it. I am surprised mine was still running after looking at each plug. Looked like melted cheeze on each one and the prong was 1/3 burned away. I thought it was running great, but I have noticed that I have better throttle and low end response now.

 

Can you show us a pic? How many miles and were they ever threw a flooding.

 

from svc records in glove, Mine had iridiums installed by dealer at 35k mi after previous lady owner flooded it and couldnt restart, de-carb done as well. I changed mine (w/iridium) last weekend at 62k b/c of a bad coil, left it stranded at my job and I flooded it while trying to possibly baby it home, also got my cat glowing red hot (but its ok) from dumping gas into it from the rear rotor not sparking (coil).

Front plugs looked ok light brown build up, rear plugs looked blackish sludgy build up from flooding I guess. center and ground electrodes looked ok, full size still. BTW Amazon has a good deal on NGK Iridiums for $16 each T and L. Im gonna pick up on another set while theyre in stock.

 

I went way over the recommended miles before replacing them.......I bought the car new with 15 miles on it and the plugs were replaced @ 8,500 miles along with the starter and battery for the reflash recall a few years ago. My car has never been flooded and has never not started. I never shut it off until the temp gets off the "C" and I burn 93 octane along with I use 5W20 Castrol, a Mazda oil filter with 3,000 miles in-between changes. I drive my car mostly on the inter-state or on highways. Yes, I have changed my oil twice in 30 days sometimes.

My car has 67,000 miles on it, so I drove 58,500 or so miles on a set of plugs. I actually thought my car had close to 30k on it when they were replace during the recall. I know I should have been paying more attention, but I didn't and I will change them at 97,000 next time. I did the coils and the wires, because it made sense to do it before I had any trouble. I had no corrosion on the coils either.

Tell me what you see? From right to left in the first picture is Leading, Trailing, Leading and then Trailing