it makes no difference in engine performance so why bother messing with them at all?

 

^so it sounds louder & you get more HP on the BUTT'dyno

 

Just because I'm new to the idiot forum doesn't mean I'm new to rotaries - or engineering. I've been driving rotary cars since the 80s - how about you?

What we're saying is simply this - show me the numbers. You may well be right, and all they do is reduce sound. But until you can quantitatively show me that they impede airflow, I see no point in removing them. Seat-of-the-pants analysis is not valid experiment.

As for the renesis v. 13B 6-port comparo - how are they operated differently? Yes, the exhaust ports are on the side. There is no overlap. But, and correct me if I'm wrong, does not the ECU adjust (through the intake valving) the length of the resonant tube to RPM and load? That's at least what the SAE papers show... for BOTH the renesis and the 13B-6P. The renesis has one more path option. I don't see how that's "they operate differently".

 

If for no other reason, with the stock airbox baffles in place only a fairly small area of the filter is being utilized. This is obvious to even the casual observer when you clean or change the filter. I'll trade a bit higher sound level for greater filter surface area utilization.

I won't speak to potential increased airflow as it's probably very minor, if at all. Keep in mind the venturi effect. Fluids (unlike drivers on the highway) move faster when they encounter a restriction, so zero sum game. Considering natural aspiration only of course.

 

The baffles show that dirt in the airstream is concentrated in one path. Air flows pretty well around corners, suspended particles don't. It doesn't mean that the other areas of the filter aren't getting airflow, it means they aren't seeing as much dirt. Take pressure measurements before and after the filter with stock v. no baffles v., say, a filter only the size of the dirty portion of the OEM filter and then come talk to me.

 

Granted with the baffles there is some airflow throughout (the baffles don't mate with the filter element, but are close to its surface), but it can't hurt to have more flow across the entire surface, even if there will of course still be a concentration in the center. I'm noticing more particles at the filter's periphery w/o the baffles. Empirical observation always trumps calculation.

 

i havnt done any mods yet and i dont know much about rotary engines or cars even so how do i remove baffles ?

 

Open airbox, get screwdriver, unscrew two plates inside the airbox behind the filter, put the box back together.

there's a nice DIY on the forum, just search for it.

 

Removing the airbox baffles is a very minor thing. You're better served with removing the VFAD as your first "butt dyno performance" mod. There's a DIY for that too. Actually, at this point in the forum's life, there's a DIY for most everything.

 

I have now removed the walls , can i take out the tube inside the air box it (it has 3 screws holding it in)?

 

No. That tube holds one of the screens that smooths out the airflow to the MAF, by design.

 

remove or cut open the VFAD for better airflow... lol

 

Someone please close this thread full of misinformation!!

VFAD is for noise control. it also does nothing for power either way. The tube in the airbox with the velocity stack on top IMPROVES power. It's made to create even flow in to the tube with the MAF sensor.

There are tons of great sources for information on this such as www.racingbeat.com and other threads on this forum.

This thread is not one of them and should be completely disregarded as a useful source of information for anyone.

 

^ I did quote "butt dyno" performance re the VFAD.

We all know that everything mentioned herein is relatively very minor, but does give a 'feeling' of more power.

My main reason for removing my VFAD was to mate a Racing Beat Ram duct.