Kevin at Rotary Resurrection has been rebuilding my 8 for the past month. It is finally finished and she's back. The mileage was 88,400 when the rebuild took place, and there's only 400 miles on the rebuilt motor. Only 600 more miles until I can stomp the gas!

Parts that were replaced were:
Rotor Housings (new)
Main Front Bearing (new)
Motor Mounts (new)
All seals (new)
Clutch (new, Exedy Stage 1)

Break in period is approximately 1000 miles. (Keeping RPM's under 4k, throttle below halfway, etc.)

 

How much did that all run you if you don't mind me asking?

 

All parts and labor, about $5,000.

 

Interesting, I assume you just took your whole car over then as you're in Tenn.

I'm in denver so I'd have to ship the engine and probably have the mazda dealership install it. They're quoting me 8,000 to get an already rebuilt engine sent to me. Still seem's like it would be cheaper to do go through Rotary Resurection though.

 

Just watch the clutch mate, many people have complained about theirs going bad and/or having bad TBs, this is assuming it's the exedy stage 1 and not the exedy OEM.

Good to hear that everything is up and running again, hope this one lasts you at least another 100K.

 

Don't let the dealer do anything other than MAYBE an install. Go with a reputable rotary rebuilder. Don't take their remans.

 

The thing about their remans is that they're built in the states (somewhere in the north east) by techs that don't really know what they're doing. So you get a remanufactured engine that could really be hit or miss. All that on top of paying 3-4 thousand more than what a rebuild would cost you from Rotary Resurrection (depending on the condition of your engine core). In my case the real expensive part was the housings. I just went with new ones to get my car back on the road faster, and so it will last a lot longer too.

 

Yeah I've read completely opposing stories so there's really no way of knowing unfortunately. At least until something goes wrong. I really hope it will last me. So far I am liking it. It engages a lot sooner than the OEM clutch. My only complaint is that the engagement is not as defined. It's a bit mushier and harder to predict. But not so much to where it's not worth buying. I'd say go with one if you need a replacement clutch, but I honestly would never have swapped out a perfectly good working OEM just to get the "stage 1 experience".