AMDguy

Hi All,
If you saw my previous thread in the New Member forum, this is kind of a "follow up."

My 8 overheated (06 galaxy grey 6MT, 100,300 miles), blew a coolant seal, and spit all its coolant through the overflow. I initially was sure I was going to rebuild it myself, but recently, through searching, I discovered that a Mazda reman can be had for as little as $2900. I had a nightmare of a time getting the front e-shaft bolt off (no, it is still not off), so I decided to at least disassemble the rear half of the engine (up until the center iron) to get a rough idea of what kind of condition the internals are in, and if it would be cheaper to get an engine, or work with what I have... The video below is the "half teardown" that I did last night.

I have never taken apart a rotary before, but from what little I know, things did not look that bad, and even the housings did not really look like they had 100k miles on them. I have not checked if everything is in spec, but so far it looks like the only thing I will be needing (aside from at least resurfacing the housings), is rotor and stationary gear bearings (and maybe and e-shaft too, if I end up having to drill out the front bolt).

yes, I know it was probably really stupid to take half of the engine apart without removing the front e-shaft bolt, but I wanted to get a rough idea of the condition of the internals so that I could approximate the cost of a DIY rebuild. If I decide to go the DIY route, then I will put the engine back together just finger tight and remove the bolt that way... yes it is extra work, but it could possibly save me a bunch of time/headache...

CaymanRotary

Very nice. Was concerned when you went for the screwdriver at the end. Take your time with this, looked like some salvageable parts.

AMDguy

yea, the screwdriver did not work... didn't want to damage the aluminium . After reviewing the cost and all the options, I have actually decided to go with a Mazda reman. I have read the the quality has vastly improved in the past few years, and Tasca parts has even said that I would get the 12 month warranty without having a dealer install it, and they are based relatively close to where I live (only about 4 hours) and I will be down where they are in a few weeks anyway, so will save about $500 in shipping... It will still be a learning experience, but with the risk of flushing 3k down the toilet greatly reduced from doing it myself.

As for having disassembled it already, I just put it back together with the components that were within reach (I think I left out a side seal or maybe a small apex seal spring), and just tightened everything to torque levels that felt close to what it was when I took it apart; then just went at the flywheel nut with my dad's big impact on the "low" setting. I have not found a terribile about of info, but do you know exactly what the short block comes with? I read that it is complete from flywheel to E-shaft bolt, minus the water pump. can you or anyone confirm this?

CaymanRotary

I cant confirm, but if you get the reman it should come with everything you need to fit it back in the car. You made a good decision going with a reman. Rebuilds can easily cost an already built engine.

May as well replace any hoses that looks worn or any parts you find that should be worth replacing. Always sucks when an engine goes, best of luck!

AMDguy

Makes sense... I am trying to save where there is a bit of room, but I do have a whole slew of parts that I will replace (front o2, coils, all coolant hoses, accordion tube before TB, putting in S2 radiator, etc...).

Yup, hate it when major/expensive components fail. hopefully I will have eliminated that failure point (still not sure exactly what it was, but I was just criusing on the highway and suddenly the gauge was way up, so suspect it was a piece of debris in the radiator or something) and this engine will last a while.

CaymanRotary

If it's a shop with a good reputation you should be ok. Preferable to get your reman engine from Mazda because a motor is only as good as the guy who built it. Of course, this is always more money so it's up to you really. Just make sure you do your due diligence on the people who are selling you that engine.

AMDguy

Going to be getting it from Tasca Parts in RI. My dad has gotten several things from them and had a great experience... It is definitely a Mazda reman, I think they get it directly from Mazda rather than a dealership.

CaymanRotary

Make sure you confirm that to be the case before purchasing. Mazda remans are the best possible to have installed. $3k for that engine is a no brainer. I've seen them go for over $4k.

AMDguy

yea, I saw one or 2 places that wanted 5k+ for a reman...

CaymanRotary

Oh yeah, easily haha. Engine problems are death for this car. The value for S1's is so low the engine problems make it uneconomical to fix. You have to really love the car to go through all this. Luckily, haven't personally had any engine problems in any of my 8's but I've helped other people who have gone through this. Currently assisting putting a new engine and trans in a 2008 automatic. Bit worried since they went with a non Mazda rebuild but it does come with a 6 month warranty so hopefully it tests out fine. I am running a compression test on the engine once its installed and hopefully it checks out. Fingers crossed really...

AMDguy

I have read about how Mazda is a "little" happy in the amount of RTV that they use during assembly, have read that a few engines have died due to overheating (because a chunk comes off and clogs the rad). hope I will be alright though... As they say; the value is in the eyes of the beholder, and maybe it is strange, but I actually love working on this car, and am really enjoying myself...

I know that before break-in, (when the engine is just put in the car) the compression will be slightly lower then normal, but do you know exactly how much? I plan on doing a DIY compression test on my reman.

CaymanRotary

It should be testing between 7-8 bar @250 rpm on a warm engine. Possible that numbers will increase as the engine breaks in so worth retesting after the break in period is over. Likely wont be a dramatic difference but you should see it increase to 8-9 bar.

AMDguy

thanks, just good to know...