iSki123

Hey guys, I'm having my engine replaced by a mechanic by the name of Ryan Shook out here in Chicago, all together I ended up spending around $3,800 for a new engine to be lowered into the RX-8. He says it'll all be done by Sunday, so as far as engine break in..

What are the do's and do not's when it comes down to breaking in the new engine?

I hear a lot of people say to drive the **** out of the engine, because carbon can build up and cause EXTREME wear at around 1000 miles of driving cautiously. Then on the other hand, there are other people saying that this is a critical stage when you first have the engine put in. That it could cause serious seal damage if you were to drive it hard. So they recommend not going over 4k RPM.

What do you think I should do? As I don't want to blow this motor again. Also, what should I START doing with this new motor to prolong it's lifespan?

Thanks,

- iSki123

ken-x8

Follow the new car break in procedure: gently, increasing max rpm and throttle in stages. The owner's manual has details. Racing Beat also has recommendations on their site.

What do your builder and mechanic recommend?

Ken

TamSE3P

I recently had my engine replaced at Mazda about 3 weeks ago. I've driven first 500 miles under 4k rpm. All cranks, I let the engine idle atleast 30 seconds to a minute and then proceeded to drive it gently until fully warmed up. I've been using pre-mix since first fill up. Going to replace oil at 1k miles, and then go back to the usual 3k oil change interval.

iSki123

This is probably what I'm going to do..

I have the 4 port Automatic RX-8, so all I'm worried about is carbon buildup. Other than that, I don't mind taking a road trip.

I wonder if my gas mileage will improve with the newer engine compared to my old 11MPG I used to get.

MauiMazda2

Looking at lots of threads on breaking in and the consensus seems to be drive the pants off it.

I think I will avoid heavy gear changes (well it is AT so I can't be that brutal) for the first couple of hundred miles and then be damned.

I am going to oil change at 500 miles and have a VERY careful look at the filter.

I have not done premix yet (think I should) and I suspect it has usual super light oil in which I will change for heavier at the first oil change.

But I keep seeing run the hell out of it.

Aloha Steve

iSki123

This is exactly what I was thinking, but some people scare me by saying it'll cause long term damage to the engine. One guy said he had lower than normal compression results after around 5k miles were put on the engine that was driven hard.

- iSki123

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

The owners manual doesn't have any specific break-in procedure listed. One long time and well respected vendor, who also does R&D for Mazda, has one that they recommend. RX8 Break In Procedures

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

It all depends on the parts used in the build.

If your builder isn't responsible enough to give you break in instructions with a build, then you might ask yourself if you have the right builder.

Karack

who's to say the builder wouldn't give him a procedure but he just asked here out of curiosity sake?


for any rebuilt rotary i recommend:

don't run the engine over 4.5k
vary the revs and loads but avoid full throttle/full load situations
change the oil at 500 and then every 3k miles(7.5k is bogus as a standard rule)
follow those steps for 1k for reused housing engines, 1.5-2k if you're a cheap bastard who opted to keep your junk housings that should have been retired.
brand new rotor housing engines generally do not NEED to follow these guidelines but probably should for the first 500 miles.


the seals seat in quickly but then wear extremely slow. worn housings can take some time to build full peak compression. new rotor housing engines generally see their peak compression in under 15 minutes, peak being the highest compression the engine will ever expect to see.

MauiMazda2

Well my re-builder was Mazda but the dealer had no idea of the running in procedure - is there an official one for Mazda re-mans????

rickeo

iTrader: (1)

Its been said a couple times in this thread as well as in your owners manual and on racing beats site.

Karack

remans generally come with new rotor housings so the break in is virtually done by the time you drive the car out of the shop. the engine oil should be changed early the first time though due to contaminants in the engine from the rebuild process.

i would still recommend supplementing the internal lubrication for approximately the first 500 miles because the oil metering lines are dry and take some time to fill.

monchie

^ Good info Ben...

iSki123

Well, looks like I'm not breaking anything in. $500.00 later and a busted undertray & corroded oil cooler lines. Looks like it'll be in the shop for another week and a half. So far, I've been living without a car for 47 days and bumming rides from my best friend. >.<

alexseiji

iTrader: (1)

i wish these cars were a little more robust in the rust department

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

Either way, it's *** backwards.

If your builder doesn't give you instructions based on the parts he used and his experience with building, breakin, and warrantying engines, then it seems like your builder is not as thorough, experienced, or knowledgeable as you might expect.

If he does give you instructions and you still ask around on the internet with the intent of following anything other than what he told you, I'd call that a complete lack of logical thought on your part and lack of respect for the man you expect to work on (not to mention warranty) your engine. To do anything other than you were instructed by the builder should shift any and all warranty liability from him to you.

iSki123

For you to just elaborate a situation like mine and justify that I had not received these instructions prior to the engine install is just a pathetic & quick assumption. Also, I wasn't aware that my actions would ever be disrespectful in any way. It was a question out of my own curiosity, which I have every single right to. Your belligerent and arrogant way of questioning my respect for my mechanic is quite childish.

Not trying to start a fight here; But your cockyness is the reason why I didn't choose YOU to rebuild/install my engine.

Again, let's handle this like professional adults. I'm not pointing fingers here.

Karack

i believe his answer was aimed at my question, not yours.

sometimes people do just want to see if their mechanic's recommendations follow those of other shops. there is nothing wrong with that and i'm honestly not sure why anyone would feel the opposite. you can never truly trust someone 100% without previously had them do the same work before and questioning what they do is how you earn that trust.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Busted undertray, it's plastic and **** happens. My oil cooler lines were corroded and I had to replace them about 3 yrs ago. There is a recall, in Canada, for them. But, it wasn't extended to U.S. cars. They are expensive new. I got a complete set of good used ones for $150. Racing Beat has a set of braided lines available.

iSki123

Yep, I believe the undertray was busted from a rock or something similar. As far as the oil lines go, they're completely rusted out and blocked off. Actually, that's probably the reason the engine failed in the first place. But I'm not going to jump to conclusions. I know I'm probably gonna get charged $500.00 or more for all of it. Hopefully it won't be $1000.00+ for the bunch..

ken-x8

iSki, what break in instructions did your builder give you? Just curious. I've always taken a gentle approach to breaking in new cars, along the lines of Racing Beat's. The one time I did a proper (nore or less) rebuild on an engine, I followed Perfect Circle's break in instructions, which were very different from the usual gentle method.

Ken

iSki123

He told me NOT to pass 4,000 RMP's, also he told me not to floor the engine. He told me NOT to do this for the first 1000 miles on the engine, he also told me to change the oil at 500 miles and then drive another 500 and change it. After the 1000 mile break-in he said I'd be able to drive it as I normally would. Only thing is, I could imagine what kind of carbon would build up at 1000 miles. >.<

Karack

it will have gobs of carbon, enough to choke a small cow!

actually it won't and i'm not sure why people worry about break in carbon buildup so much. redlining the engine doesn't really keep all that much carbon out of the engine..

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

How so? You trusted him enough to hand him thousands of dollars and give him unbridled access to your sole means of transportation (and quite possibly part of your livelihood, if you are a true enthusiast). Yet we find you here questioning the instructions he gave you, which would seem to indicate a lack of trust after the fact. It just doesn't make sense to me, that's all.

First, it's spelled "cockiness". If you're going to talk ****, at least get it right.

Second, I don't give a rat's a$$ what you do with your car or your engine. You asked what I could provide for you, I replied by stating my prices and procedures to you. Anything else perceived by you is purely emotional, likely imaginary, and not material to the work at hand or the cost thereof.

As I've always said, if you're the kind of person who wants to let an emotional reaction or perception influence your use of logic and result in a higher cost to you, then that's fine by me because I actually prefer to deal with rational and intelligent people. The net result is that you pay more to whoever gives you that "warm and fuzzy" feeling, and everyone else goes on with life unaffected.

Yes you are, you just did. Here, I'll even highlight it for you:

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Yes, we all trust the advise given to us from the dealer

Without knowing or caring of the back story here, the OP received the requested information on multiple accounts and anymore additions to this thread are trivial and redundant. To prevent the further banter that is guaranteed to ins I request this thread be closed.

Don't worry RR, when his remain dies in 20K, I'm sure you will get another quote request