jzk91

hi my rx8's clutch is worn out, and need to replace it to drive normal. so i went to dealer and got estimate of 1400,and they wanted to do compreasion restore and some break work too.so it comes to 2400for everything and i have no clue whether it is reasonable price or not. also my car is us imported car in canada,and it is still within 8year but the previous owner replaced engine once at us already... does it mean i don't end up getting any warrenty in canada? i asked the dealer and he had also no idea about it.

godesshunter

The clutch is a wear item, typically not covered under warranty.

What are you asking about the clutch? Are you looking for advice on how to change it yourself to save $1400 or are you asking if $1400 is a good price?

Did they go into detail about what the "compression restore" procedure is? Are you sure they aren't talking about a compression test? What year and mileage is the car? Anything known about previous maintenance?

Is the car new to you? Have you read through the new owners thread?

jzk91

yes i am asking if 1400 is a good price

no i just started to work and it is busiest time for me because i am a newbie at my work place. so just talk to the dealer by phone so far. bytheway call another mazda specialized shop for replacing clutch and they sais 1100 with exedy stage 1 not 2.

it is 05 shinka and owned it for an year. yes i did read the new owners thread.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

1,100 is a fair price for a dealer replacement. Stage 1 is fine btw, that's stock. Stage 2 = geared towards racing.

Mr.Mango

iTrader: (2)

I would say $1100 is reasonable with parts & labour.

Since there has been a engine replacement, if you are outside 1 year/20K since replacement your no longer covered under that warranty.

I would also ask the dealer if your vehicle is covered under the oil cooler line recall, unlikely since its american but worth a shot!

Where are you located in Canada?

jzk91

i am at toronto now but i usally stay at oacville for school period

04Green

iTrader: (1)

I have an Exedy Stage 1, it is not stock like, it is the one mod I wish I had back.

Exedy OEM is MZK 1002

Stage is 10803A Key words are "pedal effort is slightly higher".

Now, if you have it out, I would suggest a lightened flywheel as well.

What I do not know, and someone can likely add, is if the lightened flywheel would necessitate the Stage 1 clutch. I think not, but am not sure.

RocTownRx8

Has any people had any problems with the exedy 10803A? ive read that people had have problems with the 10803HD..

Slidin8

The oem clutch works great with a lightweight flywheel. You dont need to go with a upgraded clutch unless you need to work on your left leg muscles

04Green

iTrader: (1)

@ Roc. I really do not like mine. The springs rattle below 3,000 RPM, the effort is high, it is the one mod I wish I had back. Also, it was a bitch to fit. I ended up adding washers under the pressure place to make it work. It will be my first un-mod when I get the money.

pussywillow1972

04Green, I've had the Exedy Stage 1 clutch for almost two years. I had none of the issues you described with installing it nor do I have any rattles at any RPM, (at least not from the clutch. Dashboard airbag rattling is a whole other story...) I found the Stage 1 to have *slightly* greater pedal effort, but I actually like it as I thought the stock clutch was a bit on the light side. Is it possible you got a defective pressure plate from the manufacturer?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

^ the problems have all appeared in roughly the past 2 years. Yes, the theory is that a large portion of the Stage 1 clutches are defective from the manufacturer. Too many of us have had strange problems and random failures from the Stage 1 clutch for it to be simple flukes. I had 2 prematurely fail on me (one at 20,000 miles, one at 100 miles)

They didn't used to have this problem, so it's possible you have one from before whatever changed to introduce this problem.