LTABA

Check engine light last week on my aging, 31k '04. Diagnosis: stuck manifold valve, estimate for replacement, $675. However, if this doesn't correct problem, then they replace entire manifold and warranty picks up whole tab on my second engine (replaced at 23k). (I'm past the 4-year on the standard warranty.)

While waiting for part (OK to drive, so they say), dashboard lights up like a pinball table. Power steering dies and I get to see the cute power steering light, battery light is on. Limp in to dealer. Next day I get a call, battery is frozen solid, and I have to replace battery before they can run any diagnostics. Only $118 plus installation, a real deal (so they say). Anyway, they manage to get it started up and diagnose a burnt-out alternator and a fried computer. Now its up to $2k+ (forget the manifold valve, the CEL didn't come back), but this doesn't include the power steering fix, which they suspect may have caused the problem to begin with.

This car reminds me of my first car, a '74 Chevy Vega, which also had a half life of about 30k miles.

alienRX8

sorry to hear that

hope its not as bad as it looks really

Razz1

This is not a common occurance.

CyberPitz

Wow, this is a first time I've heard of the ECU dying at 30k miles..That sucks. Hope it all works out for you!!!

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

Why would anyone buy things like tires, batteries, etc. from a dealership? Why not simply refuse their service, go to autozone and buy a $60 battery, walk into the dealership service department, sit in place in your engine bay and connect the 2 terminals, saving yourself about 3-4 hours' pay (for the average person) in about 30 minutes tops.

I have not heard of this with an rx8, however they are not really old enough as a group to start experiencing electrical issues so we cannot be sure of what is to come.

However, on the rx7s, there was a part that could die and kill the ecu at the same time. So that even if you replace the bad part with a known good one, the ecu will still report that fault and will still run in limp mode until it is also replaced.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

should be covered by the extended 5 year 60k mile warranty.

beers

bearhat

31k isnt that much o.o

otakurx

That's rough. I had a couple Jeeps that were like that. Sucks, but I think this is just an isolated case. I'd want a second opinion if you can get one. Just to make sure that there isn't some glitch in the diagnostic. I had all kinds of errors show up at one Jeep dealership then I got a second opinion and it was just the wiring harness in the steering column.

LTABA

Got a call today saying that the car was now running, the power steering seemed to be working, and the battery was charging fine. However, the driver's window and turn signals are not working. Bill is at $2,200 and rising.

What's the deal with this 5 year. 60k warrenty extension? I'm only familiar with the extended drive train warranty, which does not cover extensive electrical problems.

Thanks for thoughts and comments -- it does pain me to buy battery from dealer, and the next closest Mazda dealership is 90 miles away, so not an option to get a second dealership involved, and I don't believe we have any independent rotary experts in town.

Razz1

Well... if the dealer is right, it sounds like the alternator overloaded the battery ECU and other systems in the car.

We have fuses so, its difficult to see this happening, unless it was just a big voltage spike.

Do you have an aftermarket stereo, GPS, IPOD or some other device wired to the car?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (3)

lol.

It uses a standard battery just like any other car.

I always get a kick out of guys like this. They call me up and ask how much to put a clutch in their rx7, or some other routine part. They tell me they will only let me work on their car because I am good with rotaries and they do not trust anyone else.

I thank them, but then ask what a clutch has to do with a rotary engine?

PEOPLE, MOST EVERYTHING BUT THE ENGINE IS JUST THE SAME AS ANY OTHER REGULAR CAR AND ANY REGULAR PERSON CAN WORK ON IT.

I once rebuilt an engine for a guy in his 87 rx7 here in town, and from then on he would constantly show up asking me stupid ****. If a tail light went out, he would come and ask me to put one in. If his tire was low on air, he'd ask me what to do about it, because he "only trusted me and wouldnt let anybody else touch his car".

LTABA

"Well... if the dealer is right, it sounds like the alternator overloaded the battery ECU and other systems in the car.

We have fuses so, its difficult to see this happening, unless it was just a big voltage spike.

Do you have an aftermarket stereo, GPS, IPOD or some other device wired to the car?"

No aftermarkets -- 100% stock.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

before anything else is done have them check the connector under the intake that goes to the power steering. it is a know issue. and a tsb was out for it..

have you ever overheated? or driven through any standing water? you dont mention where you are from..

search for a tread on power steering by mazdamainic.

beers

LTABA

Thanks for the reference to the power steering thread. I will look into this.

PSTNLSS

iTrader: (3)

When people ask me what my license plate "PSTNLSS" means i tell them pistonless they get confused. I say rotary engine. They are like you mean like brakes? I don't get why your cars hard to work on. The guy I use replaced my rotors without a problem.

Never L8

iTrader: (5)

I would contact Mazda USA and see if they will cover it. This certainly seems like an isolated incident, however my 2004 experienced an electrical issue that caused a computer module to fail, causing the subsequent failure of my ABS system and traction control. I haven't contacted Mazda USA about this yet, but my dealer highly recommended it since my repair bill for that will be about $1500 for a system that shouldn't fail.

Renesis07

iTrader: (1)

"aging 31K 04"

Geez, mine must be a classic at 72K miles.

New Yorker

You oughta make that a thread. I'm sure many people out there don't realize it.

RX8Prodigy

iTrader: (1)

This just happened to me...like 15 minutes ago...and I'm still in "freek-out" mode. Low charge light came on (Plugged in my AP and it shows my battery is down to 12.1), then while trying to get to a safe place to stop, everything else starts failing. 1st the (((ABS))) and DSC lights start flashing and then stay on permanently, then the powersteering light iluminates followed by sudden power steering failure, then the tire pressure guage, then the Brake light, then the horn goes, and the clock disappears and then idle is rough. Right before I turned off, checked the AP and it say battery voltage 6.4.

Turned the key back to the start position and all I hear is clicking. I was told that this is the alternator; "something was not grounded and burnt out the alternator".

Well I did buy some light bulbs for my park light and they didn't quite fit...well they fit, but the seal was not perfect...it could not lock...so there is no airlock on the parking light so they may be jiggling a bit...but there are no open wires there.

A few days ago I hosed down there engine bay and afterwards noticed an open connector (the one I was supposed to tape off after installing my AEM Intake but forgot) sitting in water...which I quickly dried and taped off.

I have read MM's post on his powersteering issues. My question is, seeing that my AP was still able to connect to my ECU even after the car died, this means that my computer is still OK, right? And most likely I just need to repair or replace my alternator? So much for that race this weekend...

What a day to have left my Garage/Workshop manual at home.

Any other tips would be helpful.