From Mr2 owner to Rx8
#1
From Mr2 owner to Rx8
Hey guys, I just wanted to introduce myself, my name is Chris and I'm 24 from Richmond, VA. I just bought a 2011 RX-8 R3 a couple days ago and this is my very first car I bought on my own (very excited). I plan on baby-ing this car like no other because I plan on keeping this car for the long run! I'll definitely be in the noob section for awhile because I still have a lot to learn about this car and the rotary engine. I already plan on doing FI within the next year as well changing out the 6-disc changer to a nav touchscreen. So I hope you welcome me with open arms going from the MR2OC boards to the Rx-8 forums! Thanks guys!
BTW, I am proud to have owned a 1991 Toyota Mr2 Turbo, I sold it to another Mr2 enthusiast 2 years ago because I knew it was time to move on and save for another car. When I test drove the 8 I fell in love because the handling reminded me so much of my 2. Anyways I know this is long but you can skip this part but I'm putting my mods down for the 2 in rememberance lol:
1991 Toyota Mr2 Turbo
- Interior -
Apex'i boost gauge
TRD short shifter
TRD shift ****
- body -
Authentic bomex sideskirts and rear underskirts
1994 oem rear taillights
- engine -
JDM ceramic wheel turbo "CT20B"
Twos R Us manual boost controller (17psi)
ATS throttle body inlet
KO racing 2.5" downpipe
Apex'i intake
- suspension -
Tein S-tech lowering springs (1.7" drop front/1.5" drop rear)
- wheels -
Gram Lights 57C
17x7.5 front, 17x8.5 rear
BTW, I am proud to have owned a 1991 Toyota Mr2 Turbo, I sold it to another Mr2 enthusiast 2 years ago because I knew it was time to move on and save for another car. When I test drove the 8 I fell in love because the handling reminded me so much of my 2. Anyways I know this is long but you can skip this part but I'm putting my mods down for the 2 in rememberance lol:
1991 Toyota Mr2 Turbo
- Interior -
Apex'i boost gauge
TRD short shifter
TRD shift ****
- body -
Authentic bomex sideskirts and rear underskirts
1994 oem rear taillights
- engine -
JDM ceramic wheel turbo "CT20B"
Twos R Us manual boost controller (17psi)
ATS throttle body inlet
KO racing 2.5" downpipe
Apex'i intake
- suspension -
Tein S-tech lowering springs (1.7" drop front/1.5" drop rear)
- wheels -
Gram Lights 57C
17x7.5 front, 17x8.5 rear
#4
Phone Booth'd
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Cincinnasty
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Clean 2 and welcome!!!!
read as much as you can handle here. There are some great stickies with tons of info. Since you want to go FI, memorize the Major Horsepower section.
Again, congrats and welcome.
read as much as you can handle here. There are some great stickies with tons of info. Since you want to go FI, memorize the Major Horsepower section.
Again, congrats and welcome.
#8
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the boards.
I'll be building a MK1 MR2 next year...
If you're close enough, you should come to deals gap rotary rally. It's a good chance to talk to a lot of other rotary guys in one spot.
www.dealsgaprotaryrally.com
I'll be building a MK1 MR2 next year...
If you're close enough, you should come to deals gap rotary rally. It's a good chance to talk to a lot of other rotary guys in one spot.
www.dealsgaprotaryrally.com
#11
Thanks for the welcome guys! And as for the questions about power, I do miss the time when I took v6's with just my 4 cylinder : ). I will tell you I felt the snap oversteer w/ my 2 a little too much especially with the mid-engine. I just love how the 8 grips turns w/ ease with no work whatsoever. And when I can add some power to it, it'll be perfect! BTW That's not fair a fair question it's just like asking which child do you love more! haha
#12
I do have a quick question however regarding standard mineral oil and fully synthetic oil. I don't want to get into a debate, I have read the countless threads pertaining to this. My main question is that my car still has less than 1k miles on it so far. I have decided to go fully synthetic but what I can't decide on is when to do the switch.
I have read that the synthetic oil's lubrication will inhibit the break in process. If I do make the switch, when should I make the change?
I have read that the synthetic oil's lubrication will inhibit the break in process. If I do make the switch, when should I make the change?
#13
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Are you dealer servicing or self servicing? Read the owners manual, I wouldn't risk voiding the warranty running synthetic. Just use a good dino oil. If you don't care about dealer issues I would switch at 1500 miles. In a Renesis with two oil coolers you will only get a little more than half out doing a normal oil change so you may want to do a double change in insure you are getting a full change. But mixing is not bad either, eventually you will get all synthetic in there anyway. I run Mobil1 0W-40 and my last motor looked good lubrication wise when torn apart after 30,000 miles of life running the 0W-40.
#14
Thanks for the reply. Well the dealer gave me my first oil change on the house b/c I got the car from them, cheap bastards :/ . I'll be making the oil change after the free one from then on. Other than possibly voiding my warranty that is the only issue I see with making the switch so early.
#15
I HATE SPEEDBUMPS!
You don't need to have your oil change done with the dealership. If you do it yourself, or another shop does it, make sure to keep records and receipts. It shouldn't void your warranty whatsoever when you do that. Anyway, welcome to the club.
#16
Registered
iTrader: (13)
Yea for now keep that warranty in tact. I ran dyno for a while but then I realized the benefits of synthetic after having CEL go away from switching to synthetic cleaned out my ssv valve apparently weirdest ****, yea the guys above are knowledgeable so good advice. if your in cali we are having a meet this sat in corona you are welcome to come.
#18
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
^ WTF?
Mr2torx8,
Just make sure you document your changes by making copies of receipts (they fade over time), and visit mymazda.com to track your maintenance. If you ever have an engine issue, you will be required to prove maintenance and it is up to them as to what is acceptable or not.
Mr2torx8,
Just make sure you document your changes by making copies of receipts (they fade over time), and visit mymazda.com to track your maintenance. If you ever have an engine issue, you will be required to prove maintenance and it is up to them as to what is acceptable or not.
#24
Registered
Welcome. Sweet rides.
I love that MR2. I think the turbo spool emphasizes the "snap oversteering" powering out of turns.
You won't have that issue with the S2 (in NA form anyway). The throttle response is like a fine musical instrument playing a held note.
I love that MR2. I think the turbo spool emphasizes the "snap oversteering" powering out of turns.
You won't have that issue with the S2 (in NA form anyway). The throttle response is like a fine musical instrument playing a held note.
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