Highway8

iTrader: (11)

My 2 cents for what they are worth.

I have never had a problem with my rx8 reaching proper operating temps in the winter. Maybe its because I let the car warm up for 2-3 minutes before driving and my first 2-3 miles are driven at under 50 MPH (less air flow acrossed the coolers)

I wouldnt buy anything from Minds Eye Engineering AKA Mazsport AKA Scott because of what he did to so many people on this forum. I got lucky and received everything I ordered from him and have had no real complaints about the quality of the products he made. I know there had been issues with some of his products and designs, but I dont have any real knowledge or opinions about them.

Would a larger capacity oil pan be beneficial for the rx8? IMHO I think it couldnt hurt and most likly would help lower engine oil temps and even ECT's. More oil will allow for more heat to be absorbed by the oil and ultimately result in lower oil temps. If you dont think this is accurate, then feel free to run your car a quart low on oil all the time and see how fast it turns burned black. However, a larger capacity oil pan is not a fix to an overheating engine and on a stock or near stock power street driven RX8 a larger capacity oil pan is not needed. FI and track cars are a differenct story.

If you have FI and track your car, heat will be an issue unless steps are taken to improve the cooling system and oiling system on the vehicle. Our cooling system and oiling system were designed for 185-200 RWHP. If you drive the car in extreme conditions, high temp and or extended high RPM, WOT track conditions you will severly tax the stock systems. Or if you go FI and increase power output by 20-25% or more and track the vehicle with a large intercooler blocking your radiator, the stock cooling system wont be able to keep up and the engine oil will also be subjected to increased temps.

An oil pan is only 1 piece to the large puzzle. I think better oil coolers would improve oil temp more then a large capacity oil pan but a upgraded radiator should be the first step when upgrading your cooling system.

So far my cooling system and oiling system upgrades are as follows. BHR radiator, mazmart waterpump and thermostat, oil cooler vent modifications, functional fender vents, vented hood, Evans NPG R (actualy causes vehicle to run a little hotter but wont boil) lower fan turn on temps via AP, silicone radiator hoses (looks and durabilty only) battery and stock air box tray removed to improve air flow. Mazdaspeed bumper with larger grill opening. Beatrush underpanel (reduces turbulant air being pushed into the engine bay and facilitates air flow under the vehicle)

Mods on the list. Oil filter relocation kit with larger oil filter, Mazmart oil pressure kit (still debating about this one) Larger oil coolers (need to research cost, effectivness and difficulty), larger capacity oil pan (if a good oil pan is made and the price is right and its not made by Scott)

I have already said it, but I will say it again because its that important. Once you increase engine power output you stress the stock system, especialy if you drive the car hard. modifcations and improvements must be made to the oiling and cooling system to handle the additional heat. No one piece is a magic fix, there are many pieces to the large puzzle.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

With my single cooler setup I get about 5 quarts out during a normal change. Not much remains in the lines and cooler from what can tell. I have had the lines off and when I put and empty oil bottle on the ends and usually it about a half quart or so that drains out. Heat kills so more oil would not be a bad thing from what I can see but I guess opinions vary

My stock coolers were beat to **** which no doubt affected their cooling ability or there could have been something else going on but with the single cooler mod all is well even in extreme conditions. The biggest thing is how fast the oil temp drops at speed which is very good to me. I have seemed to get my coolant temps in order buy sealing everything up but I have yet to make a few hour canyon run to really test it and I will be relocating my battery and getting an intake probably to free up space behind the radiator.

Plus a 10qt oil change would only run me $50.00 using the Rotella T6 5W-40. I know rivets are used in high stress situations also but I doubt those rivets are of that quality. But who knows, installing a pan is simple. But it would be a pain if in interfered with changing the plugs.

Race Roots

iTrader: (64)

All I have to say is Blah.

You do realize you are advertising his stuff by posting this, I get tons of inquiries for that damn CFK, not to mention those listed on ebay are ones I paid for anyway.

Like Jason said herpes...I already see a break out in the near future.

Race Roots

iTrader: (64)

I wonder if he will post https://www.rx8club.com/members/mazdatunerguy-64650/

wankelbolt

iTrader: (21)

Wha...?
http://blackhaloracing.com/products-...eddy-oil-pan4/

I hope you sell oil pans as I'm about to buy one along with BHR rad, Samco hoses, and upgraded couplers for my turbo install...

...And get you to twist MazdaManiac's arm to cough up the pipe I'm looking for!

I liked some of what Mazsport did, bought some of it and had no problems. The oil pan is not a bad piece of kit either. But since the whole story came out I just can't stomach his ethics.

Highway8

iTrader: (11)

I have heard MM is good and "gathering data" and "thrashing engines". I know he has tried many things to address the cooling system but I have not heard what he has done for oil cooling? Any larger or better oil coolers? Has he tried a larger oil pan?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Basically nothing since my oil is too cold most of the time.
I can reach terminal coolant temperatures waaaaay before my oil overheats.
Remember, you want your oil to be in the 230° range most of the time.
Its really hard to keep it there as it is.
I am planning on replacing my OE coolers with a pair of Fluidyne coolers, but that is mostly aesthetic since the stockers are beat to crap.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I can get my oil temps to that range pretty consistently but other things I have read have said 230F is too high but then again Mobil 1 say their synthetic racing oil can handle temps up to 500F so if that is true then 230F is probably nothing for a decent synthetic. I wonder what the max temps our oils sees inside the motor are. I wouldn't want to go higher than 280F because I read something about the viscosity getting too low at that temp and parts may make contact. Who knows really though.

But as soon as I gain any real speed the Fluidyne drops the temps like crazy.

Razz1

I question the OP.

Why is he looking on EBAY for parts?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Actually I didn't find this, I'm just posting it, but I do buy stuff off on Ebay.

REDRX3RX8

In other words, if you use synthethic oil, and severely overheat your engine from loosing water the oil might still be usable, because the renesis will probably toast before the oil quits.

Is that what you mean by 230 deg f oil temp low normal oil temp MazdaManiac?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You want your oil to be at a stable operating temperature before you beat on your motor.
If you have oil temps that are only 180° and you keep pushing your water to 230°, you aren't doing anybody a favor.
Oil does what it does quite well up to temps where the motor is long gone and the motor is long gone at coolant temps where the oil is just starting to get going.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

^ Makes sense.